colinworth79

See picture of a set of valves I've just removed from my bandit 1200 motor . 3 of the inlet valves have quite a lot of carbon deposits on the back . There in order of where they are in the head . I'm thinking the stem seals are past there best as far as I'm aware never been changed .

put mine on via the oil pressure switch . Yes run it though a relay , pressure switch is closed when no pressure so connect to normally closed side of relay with a switched ignition feed for supply to relay .

I know I'm sad had to google it - Brown - 12v - tail white with black tracer -12v - stop Black with white tracer - negative - common return when checking continuity can put one test lead on the negative of the battery and the other to the black/white if its easier . You always need a good negative return otherwise you can get back feed and all weird and wonderful faults will come up . Hope this is of some help

you should have a plug with 3 wires in for the rear lights . Common return and a positive feed one for the brake light and one for the tail light . I would think you have lost the common return as neither stop or tail work . Check with a meter set on 12v dc , one wire onto the frame and the other to each of the wires on the plug from the loom . Should have 12v on one with lights on and one when the brake pressed . If checks out ok set meter on ohms and one wire on frame again and check resistance on the common return should be zero ideally . Cant remember colours at the moment and me book is at work ! Think the return ( negative ) is black/white .

when you say 46mm inlet stub i take it you are measuring the outside of the carb where it would push into the rubber ? Stock bandit 1200 carbs are 40mm o/d at that point iirc ? I would look for some inlet rubbers that fit the larger bodied carbs as standard ie gsxr 750 M , gsxr 1100 L ,M,N . The gsxr 1100 M had 40mm cv carbs fitted as standard so the outside of those carbs is going to be a minimum of 44 mm where they push into the rubbers .

26 teeth bandit 1200 28 teeth gsxr 1127 30 teeth gsxr 750

If the carbs are 750 L then they would have a small black plastic pipe from the bowl to the main carb body for the power jet function ( this is blocked off as standard ) which the 36mm do not have . Not 100% sure if the bowls are the same physical size of not . Only way is to get both carb banks side by side .

found a picture of the one I made , yes there not easy to do ! This is the second one I've made and paid more attention to where the pipes merge into the turbo , makes boost 300rpm lower.

bandit 12 has the bowl to one side and total oil capacity is 3300ml , May work if the exhaust is a 4 into 1 ?

number 7

what about a bandit 1200 rear caliper pad pin clip iirc its a one peice job for the 2 pins ?

easiest is to have all 4 pipes come together then fabricate a cone down to the turbo flange . I tacked up one pipe then built a jig with a scrap head . Careful when welding it up , I once done it without bolted to my scrap head and warped so bad I had to cut and shut it .

If the rubber gaskets still feel soft then they should be ok to reuse . Only need to put a small amount of sealant around the 4 half moon cut out on the side of the head . Be careful not to over tighten the bolts there only m7 and go in aluminium .

very nice , more close up pics required . How easy was it to fit the k5 onwards wheels ? I'm assuming 600 5.5 inch rear rim ?

Hu As above what do want to achieve first, standard motor with decent exhaust and filter 115-120 bit of head work and cams 130 ish 1216 /1246 big bore and flatsides 150 ish low comp pistons , corrillo rod , port job turbo up to 300 day to day road bike I would have it how I had my bandit back in 2003 1246 big bore , full akro system , yoshi cams and gas flowed head 145-150 hp . Budget to replace the old cheap (crap from new ) shock , rework the forks and some decent sticky tyres . The old girl back in the day -

yes I'm using k1 thou .

yes its a narrower bearing

I've put a bandit box in 1127 cases . Gearbox output bearing needed changing.

stock carbs are 38 mm cv . Should have a small rubber tube up the side .

The trigger plate in the picture is dyna . If you have purchased this as a non runner I would go through the basics first before pulling engines apart . I would pull the carbs off and clean also checking the float heights . Check valve clearances . I would also fit new plugs as they don't like being flooded with petrol . I had the exact same problem with my 750 L , it would turn over and then occasionally there would be a loud bang through the exhaust . I had a leaking float valve in 2 carbs . The flooding killed the plugs .

Forgot to say , make sure your fuel return line goes above the level in the tank and needs to be 6 mm min internal bore . I've removed the sender from the tank and replaced with a plate and tube .

on my bandit I lowered the float height a bit and reg is turned right down . I did get the odd problem where it occasionally fire on 3 then 4 th would then come in , I've wired the fuel pump through a relay and operated via engine oil pressure switch so pump only runs when the engine is running and been 100% from then .

73 quid on the bay at moment . Search bandit 12 lipo battery

been using a lipo lithium battery 150 x 105 x 87 on turbo bandit for about 4 years now . Never had to touch it in any way, will sit for all winter and remain fully charged . Does seam to spin the engine over quicker as well . Also no problems running additional electrics ( fuel pump ect )

I just find easier to time up . Not really a problem my bandit been ok for 14 years