Portaz13

What makes you think that?

So pulled the carbs and went through them. Went for a run after a warm up period reved to 12, as the run continued with white a few high rpm /speed runs the revs stated to break down again at 10500 and then under 10000, still pulls bloody hard and I spoke to the dyno guy who is happy to run It to see what's going on. I'm leaning towards spark, I also lowered rev limit to 12500, is it possible spark plugs could cause this as it heats up?

I've been struggling with carb settings as in long previous thread, I'm thinking I will lower rev limit and go through carbs one more time. Its not really a huge issue as I'm not usually that high up in revs. On occasion it's stalling at idle . Thanks for reply guys I Minda felt 10 is a good place to change anyway well indicated 10 god only knows what it actually is lol

Was thinking the same, might just put needles back to how it was, mark my throttle position and see if I can get some more clues

Hi all again, I've run the old girl (1990 750) for about 500kms now. I've been trying to squeeze a few high rpm runs in and noticed it really doesn't want to rev over an indicated 10500 rpm. Above that it start to sound unclean as in not smooth. I note the Dyna 2000 is set on 14000rpm but it really screaming at 10 and I have too much mechanical sympathy to push it more than that. Assuming the tach is correct is there another setting on my flat slides I should be looking at?

Looks heaps better than a busa though

Yep give it some 600 wet and dry then clean and put back together, they will either leak or they won't but looking at pics doesn't look too bad

Thank you so much guys for all the help. It made the difference for sure. BTW settings were for future reference Clip 3 on needle 3/4 turn out for mixture screws Don't have any jet sizing but maybe it may help someone

Well got it sorted so far, main idle screw was coming loose so fixed that and adjusted pump a bit more and she runs well, went for first decent ride

I will pull the tank off again and check the Cam is returning OK, I just can't see why I would need to continually adjust idle. Regardless though definitely making progress

Thanks for reply, no filters fitted just trumpets. It idles fine now and very minimal hesitation now it simply the main idle screw that needs constant adjusting while riding I haven't touched the pilots since I put carbs back on. They are at 3/4 ish each

OK so now it idles and runs pretty good, pulls hard just needs a few on road pump adjustments but every time I gave it a bit of throttle when I stopped the idle was high. I adjusted it 5 or 6 times, it came back to 1500 now probs with idle screw. So I'm thinking it it possible that idle screw is moving when I'm on the throttle? I can see how it would even run with probably a total number of 6 turns or so

They are not round I will take a pic, how do you go about setting on bench with your method?

These are black, info in could find said 17mm . I left it alone thinking if the float height is a lower number being measured upside down then That would mean more fuel. Am I on right track with that?

Great thank you, I will have a look again