colinworth79

I have a pair of yoshimura cams for an oil cooled engine . There not stamped up st1 or st2 but gsf x66 . No markings in the end . They do have the additional oil holes as my other set . Any one come across this before or know what spec they would be ?

I used my bandit with 13 to 1 compression JE pistons for a few years with no problems . 82mm bore ( 1246 ) Yoshimura stage 1 cams and stock ignition timing . Always run on shell optimax . As stated above ignition and cam timing play an important role . You will need to build the motor and meassure everything and work out the compression ratio . I would also be concerned with piston to valve clearance using the dot head .

Stock 1127 rod - Small end 25mm o/d

I would just get a peice of aluminium the same thickness as the banjos . Drill 2 holes the same distance apart as the 2 bolts . Drill in the side linking the holes then cap off the edge with a grub screw .

Discs look Ducati from something like a 900ss or early monster . Bearings should be 20mm internal diameter for a slingshot spindle . Nice wheels .

I also have an 1100 slingshot fairing bracket that I don't require. Although not the same it would be easier to modify than start from scratch . Pictured next to the 750 one .

Attached pics of 750 fairing bracket

Which model the 750 and 1100 ones are quite different as are the later M/N model . I have a 750 L and 750 M sat here .

I would look at the cable if it's not a new genuine one or the lever is incorrect and has the wrong distance from the pivot . Shouldn't be much difference from the hydraulic set up in terms of weight

The oil coolers are connected to the low pressure oil circuit and are not for oil supply to bearings ect so will have no affect if it drains back to the sump . Just have to remember this when checking oil level .

Clive I would avoid dual pass ones and fit as big as possible

I've not see a car without a bov fitted as standard. Ford, Vw /audi volvo etc. Lots are built into the compressor housing of the turbo.

Yes as above the 1100 ones have additional bracing at the top if your looking at one on that site . Side panels are different but the belly pans the same . The clock brackets are differnt between the 1100 and 750 as well due to the top fairing differences

@fatblokeonbandit I have a slingshot arm out of the bike if you any measurements

Yes should be fine .

I would turbo the bandit lump and keep the 1127 motor for the 750 . Differences , bandit has a double roller out put bearing on the gearbox , weaker clutch , lower compression and the exhaust cam has shorter duration . As mentioned earlier the liners in the barrel are 1mm bigger in O/D . Stock bandit pistons are quite weak for turbo use so either gen 1 busa pistons or some aftermarket forged jobbies .

Plates are not interchangeable between bandit and gsxr . Bandit has the 10 big tags onto the basket and gsxr has a lot more smaller ones .

Another bandit

Can't you just change the can ? Just need a 2 inch race can I would have thought ?

No just welded the bolt holes up then laid the fitting on top. I will see if I can put a pic up tonight .

Yes , just welded up the holes then a an-8 fitting on top .

You don't mention the return to the tank? Needs to be bigger bore than the feed pipe and must be above the fuel level. On my bandit 12 I removed the fuel sender and made a plate. Fpr I took off off the plenum but it's not going to affect anything at low revs like the problem you have at the moment.

As meanbean said above I would go 81mm 1216 on a turbo engine as the cylinder pressure is going to be more. I ran 1246 on a bandit motor for a few years no probs but that was before I went turbo... Pistons are the weak link to start with along with the clutch...

Dont use the mini ap caliper if you want a decent back brake as they dont provide alot of stopping force . My bike just passes mot each year it's that bad. Likely I dont use the back brake much. Handy info on using the 1000 k1 caliper.

Early water cooled frame , later ones had additional plating inside and a mount under the top frame rail.