colinworth79

bandit 12 has a runner bolted on the cover for the hy-vo chain .

I would balance the carbs with some vac gauges as it sound like no1 is slightly behind the rest.

Yes all the oil cooled yoshi cams are like that. Mine have been installed 15 odd years now and still look like new.

Yes looking that way ,Cullinoc on here is the frame after mine No 14 from later 2011 . 007 and 013 been missed out .

Looking really nice , there is still some work to be done but will be worth the time and effort . You wont see many GIA frames about my bandit frame is number 12 and that was made back in 2011 .

Bandit 1200 straight spoke and fit.

Thanks for the info and help. Now I know what Im lookin for. Yes the later straight spoke are slightly different, the disc side bearing sit slightly further out. I will take my wheel out at some point and just check the sprocket carrier. I think it has 6 spokes going to the drive rubbers. The 4.5 rim has 5.

The small pipe is for a dump valve.

Right I'm lookin to get a spare rear for my 750 L. Now I've read on here slingshot rear's vary between models and different 750 /1100. I want to get another wheel I can just swap when I drag race the old girl (1216 FI turbo lump) and don't want to have extra sprocket carriers and spares ect. How can I tell differences if any? Thanks Colin

As mentioned above 1100 and 750 are different. Easiest way to tell a 750 side panel or top fairing is where they bolt together there is only 2 bolts. The 1100 ones have 3.

Different oil cooled engines run different gear ratios to run the oil pump. Bandit 12 motor runs the biggest size gear on the back of the clutch. No point in trying to overspeed the pump or increase the pressure. I've run my bandit for 12 years with the addition of oil going to supply the turbo bearing and it works fine.

If the engine is completely stripped I've placed the block on the top crank case and then fitted each piston and rod assembly from the top. When all 4 are in then place the crank in and bolt up each rod cap.

I did think that

Nice but pistons in back to front, dot on exhaust side!

1340, 9.5 comp turbo used for 2 years on the road, try to avoid town/traffic as she does get rather hot!

These are quite basic in wiring, there is no resistor on the ignition switch just later stuff like bandits as to stop people hot wiring them. If you have power and the motor won't spin over when you push the button its going to be a signal to the starter relay, duff relay itself or starter motor. Trace the wire coming off the starter motor back to the relay and bridge 2 big contacts with some pliers or piece of wire this will prove the starter. If that works see if the solenoid is clicking when you press the starter. If it is then relay wants swapping. If it isn't clicking check the side stand switch, clutch switch and neutral switch.

I would say the M6 was one of the bolts that holds the ignition plate on under the right hand cover.

If you have a gen suzuki manual has a bit in there how to check guide wear. Sounds like the guides are worn past the service limit.

Think your going to struggle to get a td05 in the space. Might be wrong. I would get a td04-19t and use a volvo 7 exhaust housing with the 3inch outlet. Pic of a td05 next to a Td04.

You can't have too big an oil cooler on these engines. Easy enough to buy the bits on the web rather than a complete kit.

No I think there slightly different. If you get a pin tool off the bay you can take the connection pins out of the plug and swap the outer plastic connector blocks over.

1200 bandit remove the fuel gauge sender from the bottom of the tank make a plate and weld a tube and fitting to it.

Not had any problems with my engine being turbo ed for 7 years. Aways let it warm up gently for a few miles before giving it stick.

How much you after, lots of people on here have 300hp plus turbo's and just use the ape studs. My - 1216 turbo lump used stock suzuki bolts for 8years with no problems. Used ape with the current 1340 turbo lump.

I've had 3 oil cooled engine have bolts missing from this plate. One on my bandit bolt fell out and went between the crank and cam chain snapping the chain. I always remove the bolts and lock tight them in now when I get an oil cooled motor.