colinworth79

I've done a head the biggest problem is not the rockers it's the end float on the camshafts . The thrust faces need welding up then machining . The shim head shares the rocker arms with some other oil cooled engines .

I'm surprised something didn't jam up ! . If you need any bits drop me a pm I've got a couple of motors in bits .

Shim head intake 0.10 - 0.20mm Exhaust 0.15 - 0.25mm

Spring rate will ideally need changing as well due to the bandit being a lot heavier than a k1 . I'm running a stepped yoke on my bandit no problems .

Cheers Clive for the reply . Should fit straight on then

Bandit block measures 85.5 mm

Has anyone got a 1127 block they could measure the o/d of the liner at the bottom where it goes into the crankcase . I'm collecting parts to tune my 1100 m engine and have a few spare bandit 1200 blocks and was hoping to use one for a big bore . The base gaskets for the 2 models are the same part number but was under the impression the bandit block had slightly thicker liners .

V720 is as you say a late oilcooled bandit 12 motor it differs from the earlier engine in that it had the pairs system fitted and the exhaust cam has slightly less lift and duration due to emissions but the rest is identical. Main way to gain power with these is cams and compression. I would either go dot head and stock pistons or the correct big bore kit , stock head and some cams .

I use steel gaskets after a copper one shat its self . Use the o rings ect as the standard placement . I think from memory there is only a base gasket and 2 location dowels at the bottom of the barrel and 6 o rings things at the top where oil goes up and down the studs. Studs I would say you have a couple in the wrong location as there is 2 different lengths in the engine but should be fairly obvious when you lay the head on the barrel . Keep the copper washers as oe i would say .

Would have to swap complete rear end as a unit. Bolt in job .

@jonny1bump267mm between centers on the 2 left hand mounting lugs mk1 bandit 12 .

Stock bandit 12 just over 100 hp as standard . Everything done to the engine n/a looking 160 - 170 ish . Turbo up to about 300 ish keeping it rideable . Not sure really what your after from the above post but not going silly you want to change the whole exhaust system , find some gsxr cams and raise the compression as there fairly low as standard . Carbs various different ones to go for . I've just fitted some 40mm TMR mikunis to my gsxr 1100 that work really well. but it's not stock internally and has a fully yoshi system ect .

The vw car engine stuff I've worked on have 2 sensors one in the head and one mounted on the side of the block up near the head gasket area . This is on high comp turbo engine. The idea is to retard the timing if low grade fuel is used or going to see high inlet temps ect .

Post some pics up may help .

Yep I trouble lining it back up so took a cam out .

Renthal do a custom service if you want to go outside the normal section they have on the shelf . Maybe thinking about going bigger on the front to raise the gearing that smaller on the back . If you go too small on the back the chain guide/ buffer won't last long as the chain will be going up and over the swing arm .

Bandit 1200 has a hivo cam chain Gsxr 1100 has a conventional chain So you need to use the correct chain and guide set up for the given chain type .The gear in the middle of the crankshaft is different between the two engine types . So if your fitting a dot head on a bandit bottom end you need to use the bandit cam shaft sprockets and the guide that is mounted in the rocker cover .

Belly pans are all the same across the slingshot range Fairing middles all the same across all 750 slingshots 1100 and 750 tops and middles are not interchangeable 1100 have 3 holes in the side and 750 2 . M / N seats / seat units same just some have holes drilled for the grab rail .

Usd are basically the same as the earlier conventional rwu forks . Worst part is undoing the bolt in the bottom of the leg that holds the damper rod. I always loosen this first , if the rod spins you will need a special tool to go inside and hold it . ( I've only had this in one fork leg of about 8 I've done.)

@Josephthank you for the reply managed to source a 1100 wp stand which is about 25mm longer and should sort it .

1100 M with 750 arm , ohlins shock and yoshimura suspension links so raised up a bit .I've also fitted a 180/60 back tyre . The old girl does lean over fairly on the side stand now . Anyone managed to source a slightly longer side stand off something else that will fit without too much work ? before I go to the hassle of fabricating something.. Ta

Linked all mine together as well in a small manifold and take bov , boost gauge off that .

I would say it would work . I would mount the gsxr crank sensor and remove some of the pick up points on gsx rotor to replicate the gsxr one . Obviously the sensor and rotor point would have to be in the same position to TDC as the original . Think an ignitech box would be better so you could play with the timing and rev limit .

@george 1100 it's got gsf above the logo . Yes they are drilled for the additional lobe oiling . My other set are stamped clearly ST1 in the same place as where the stampings are on these . Think I may fit them into one of my spare engines so I can check lift and duration .