colinworth79

I'm leaning towards they are gen carrillo after all as thr rod bolts are stamped CARR and number etched on the side . I'm fairly sure the ones I purchased new had a A stamped on them . Might end up taking the clutch cover of my bandit motor to look at the gen rods .

Rods bolts have CARR SPS 77

I've got some H bean rods I'm looking to sell but I can't see any identifications . They look very much like the carrillo rods I have fitted in my bandit motor but haven't anything on the side .

Stock calipers aren't the best out there. Upgrade to r1 or the later gsxr mono blocks .

K5 is 207mm I have one sat here . Think there all the same up to k8 just the offset changes .

As gixer1460 said above oil contaminated cases are tricky to weld . Personlly i would clean all the paint off around the area then die grind into the crack . I would remove the sump and gear change shaft and seal . Give it a good clean with some solvents . Possibly giving it warm up with a blow torch couple of time to get the oil to warm up and come out of the crack. Put the gear change shaft back in when you get it welded . Swapping the cases is not going to be econical by the time you get gaskets , bearings ect be better off getting another engine and stripping that one and selling the bits off .

The natural light uses the connector at the bottom of the engine as the negative return for the light . I would say you have an earth ( negative ) fault possible connector onto the crankcase .

There are some differences between bandit 12 and gsxr motor mainly cams, pistons and clutch . I would personally go with bandit 12 as the crankcaese are slightly different around the gearbox output bearing allowing a wider bearing to be fitted. If your going big bore your going to change to higher comp pistons anyway .

I only went to the next size up and I think the screw was turned in slightly ( richer ) than stock .

I ended up going bigger pilots as was lean . Sometimes at the lights it would cut out . I found that bringing the tick over up a bit helps when there turbo . As for the floats if it's not flooding the carbs I would leave it as is .

I connected all 4 carbs tops to a manifold then used this to feed the boost gauge . It will pulse with just being on one especially on tick over.

Personally i would try enlarging/ porting the wastegate hole in the turbine housing first but if you want to go external run a 38 or 40mm wastegate . Turbosmart or Tial . You could risk a Chinese job but I know people to have problems with the diaphragm and also sticking open when there hot . Be careful with placement in the collector as too much of an angle to exhaust flow you will still get boost creap .

Clutch basket should have 72 teeth

Mk1 and mk2 bandit are basically the same . Inlet rubbers , alternator , exhaust cam and sprocket cover only variations I can see between the 2 motors I have stripped down here. Oil pump gear looks like it's off a wp .

When I built a motor with busa pistons I skimmed a bit off the block . I do have a ported and skimmed 1127 head going cheap if you want ?

Standard 1100 M is about 125hp . Bandit engine has lower compression pistons and a heavier crankshaft. If is was mine I would keep that shim head that's on there fit a 1216 kit . Decent exhaust and some TMR carbs. My 1100 M - full yoshi duplex system and set of 40mm TMR carbs . Be more than enough for a bandit chassis .

I've converted a shim head to run the earlier stye cams and rockers . Main problem is the camshaft end float . The shim head is larger so you can't drop the cams in . You need to weld up the thrust face where the cam runs to close the gap .

I did start a build thread on my 7/11 turbo . All behind the stock bodywork

The current rally x cars use this system but I believe it works in combination with retarding the ignition ect but less aggressive. They found aggressive anti lag would be driving the car , making it harder to turn and stop . Having a turbo bike on the road for the last 13 - 14 years I think a certain amount of lag is helpful , I wouldn't want to be mid corner and as I open the throttle have the engine produce 7 - 10 psi of boost pressure .

So I'm putting a gsxr motor together and would like to know what camshafts anybody can recommend. Spec is - 1100 M bottom end , knife edge crank and corrillo rods . Wiseco big block bored to 83mm JE pistons. 1127 L tappet head been ported by Mr upperton , valves are stock size at the mo . I've got a pair of stock L cams . The engine is going into my 7 / 11 that currently has a stock M engine with full yoshi duplex system and 40 mm Mikuni TMR flatsides . Bike runs great as is but could do with a bit more go . Used on b roads . Question is do I stick with the stock L cams or go with something a bit more lumpy to make the most of what I have ?

I would use the dot head if complete and in good condition . Benefit of this is your going to raise the compression . Cams between the two heads are very close . Going to raise the carbs up slightly but I'm not sure which frame and carb set up your using . As for the clutch I had in the past no end of problems with my bandit using the stock clutch so swapped over to a 1127 one . Swap over the oil pump gear on the back and will have to make a spacer to hold the hub on . No need to change the gearbox input shaft. Make sure when you refit the clutch that the oil pump and alternator gear is lined up other wise you will break the teeth off the gears .

Yes you are correct they used to do a complete kit but that has now been discontinued. You can still buy the gaskets individually . I purchased parts to put the cases together and head and barrel on and was getting towards £300 in gaskets . I wouldnt use aftermarket oil tube o rings ect but side case gaskets should be fine..

From memory it's only about 1.5mm difference . No logical reason to alter the dimensions as you say .