colinworth79

my 750L resto project

the US spec 750 L used 36mm carbs iirc . Just wondered why not stick with the stock 38mm ? I've got a 750 L with 20k miles on the clock and its fairly stock apart from a straight through race can and the fueling is fairly good . There a bit fluffy below 3k rpm but they all do that .

the alternator drive gear is just pushed onto the back of the clutch basket . Normally its quite a tight fit on the spline. I would say either the clutch basket is worn or drive gear . Worth making an ally plate to blank off the alternator and then running it . Can post some pics up tomorrow if needed as got a motor in bits .

you will have to change the yokes with the forks as there a different diameter. Not sure what you will gain from the swap . If the 750 forks are in poor condition I would source another set of 750 jobs and flog the 1100 ones as they go for good money as lots of people with earlier Suzuki's like them due to being the longest USD forks made

Think it changes the rate at which the cv slide will rise when you snap the throttle open . Not 100 % sure if it will slow it down or speed it up .

nice start to a project . Well worth £400 . Front end srad 750 or tl 1000.

no think hole centre is different on the 2 taps but are same vac tap .

ok thanks I knew it was 70 something , think its slab side basket then

might be in the process of getting another clutch basket for a turbo bandit 12 motor I'm building .just wanted to check how many teeth on the outside drive gear ? I know I don't want the earlier 1052 basket and they have 1 less .

what are the TB's off ? Not seen ones with 2 injectors in .

yes for a 1340 engine im building . I did put a wanted ad up when i needed one a couple people came back with havin a spare .

750m drain tube.

Are you sure the carbs wont fit in the space . The engine does look to be leaning forwards a bit in the photos . If you need to go FI srad 600 throttle bodies fit in the oil boiler inlet rubbers

ive just looked up the part numbers and the left hand one has different part number . Ive got tubes off a gsxr 750 m motor on my 1340 bandit motor im building and it fits ?

I always thought that it was just a case of changing the pickup and sump . The 2 steel drain tubes should be the same . Only thing i can think is the tubes are fitted wrongvway round or you have 2 of the same side as they are handed .

Normally if you put the clutch back without meshing the gears they snap off a couple of teeth . I always like to put the basket back in then try to move the alternator and oil pump gear and make sure you can detect the back lash in the gears so you know its meshed . I did the same thing once many years ago in a rush , had the buy new gears and have the exhaust and sump off to find the remains .

I ran a bailey unit many years ago on my bandit and it used to come slightly open when stationary. Changed to a turbosmart unit now and that doesn't do it as its got a monster spring but it also doesn't open when you shut the throttle at anything below 5k ok above those revs .

Turbo it !!!! Td04-16t on mine at mo 15-16 psi . Enough power for picking the front wheel off the ground at over 150 mph . Only downside is your bank account getting smaller and constant fiddling for the search for more power .

I was going to try a charge cooler in the future due to lack of space and I don't want to chop up all the pipe work ect again . Was going to mount a small rad up front and an electric water pump and header tank under the seat. Some electric water pumps now can vary the flow rate depending on the temperature. All going depend on how well the radiator can disperse the heat generated. Ideally big air intercooler mounted so it can get lots of air through it.

if it was my tank I would cut the whole bottom 'bowl' off and fabricate a new one or find a replacement . You start trying to weld patches on you blow holes in it as the metal is so thin .

yes connect them all together . I made a small manifold up . If you only connect to one cylinder like I did the boost gauge years ago you don't get a smooth signal as the inlet valves open and shut . Clutch cover looks ok .

gsxr ignition barrel should fit . You would need to use the gsxr loom , ignition switch and cdi all together as bandit CDI needs to see a voltage off the 2 additional wires from the ignition switch ( 100 ohm resistor built in ) and bandit has a different multi pin plug .

gen 2 is 18mm small ends , gen 1 is 20mm

I'm going to give it a go later in the year . Just got to find another housing to send off . Been told don't go for the white as can look dirty after a while and impossible to clean it up.

nice to see the bike going back together always been one of my favourite bikes on here. Think its always wise to port a head on a turbo engine ,I know your forcing air into it but its still got to get into the engine in a very short space of time. Run a ported head on my bandit and seams to go ok . I would have to do something with the turbo exhaust housing tho as it would stress me out being a bit rusty