Upshotknothole

Quick update, put about 100 miles of spirited riding on these brakes yesterday. Rotors continue to clean up and the feel is good. Got a rebuild kit for the M/C waiting to go on, and I think as soon as I get the last of the oxidation off the rotors, I'll throw some new pads in and bleed them again. Definitely worth the $300 I paid for the 95 750W donor bike these came off of.

If those are new intakes, the only place I know to easily pick up new intakes for a dot head is Eblag, and those ones are known to not work as they're not a full set. Instead they doubled up two of the intakes and called it good enough. Check the part numbers on them, correct ones are sequential left to right, the knock offs won't be.

Finally got it out for a proper ride today. About 100 miles of twisty mountain roads and some highways. Carbs feel good, might still order a set of the next size larger mains to double check the top end, but I can swap those out without even pulling the carbs. Otherwise, my butt dyno says the bike is running pretty damn good right now, and got a respectable 40 miles per gallon today. When I first got the bike, it was only doing 25-30 MPG when cruising on the freeway.

Do you still have the carbs? Line the carbs and the throttle bodies up and see how they match up.

Spacing is the same between 750 and 1100 heads. Only the 600s and Mk2 stuff from the 00s is different. Have the throttle bodies been modified to fit the spacing? I don't know of any that fit stock. The spacing between 1&2 and 3&4 look pretty far off in your photo.

The front wheel is a direct swap, I was just hoping I could run the rear wheel before pulling the bike apart to swap swing arms. No bother, I still need to get the wheels powder coated and get new tires. It'll be a job for this winter.

I've used thick gasket material for Pingel adapter plates. You could also use an OEM gasket with your block off plate.

Check for vacuum leaks, is the vacuum line to the petcock hooked up? Adjust the idle down? Does it hang at a high RPM? Spray a little carb cleaner or starter fluid around the intake boots on the head with the bike running to check for intake leaks.

I'm pretty sure the K&L kits we get are the same as the Tour Max kits they get in Europe. Usually pretty good, and a hell of a lot cheaper than the Mikuni parts Suzuki sells. Save yourself some trouble and don't bother mounting the carbs back onto the bike until you can bench test them with fuel and they don't leak anymore. It's most likely going to be either a stuck float or a float valve that's not sealing completely. With swapping the parts around you should be able to figure out what's leaking.

Double check your float valves. Try swapping them from carbs 1/2 to 3/4. What brand of float valves did you use? Try swapping the floats as well. Sometimes tapping on the side of the float bowl while they're leaking can free a stuck float. The Dynojet kit and the emulsion tubes are separate from the float valves, so won't be causing the problem.

Took them out yesterday to test them, and new forks, and new jetting. Was a little nervous going down the hill from my house at first, alternated between accelerating to test the jetting and braking to test the forks and start cleaning up the rotors. I think I did less than 10 miles yesterday, so hardly enough to really get any real heat into the pads and rotors. They did feel good and was able to focus my attention more on the other things on the bike. Once it cools off a little I'll take it back out again and see what it can do. You can already see a nice difference in the rotors now that the surface rust is getting removed.

My stock brakes were pretty worn out, in comparison these are feeling really good. Yesterday I was testing new jetting, brakes, and forks, and mainly focusing on the jetting. Things I did notice, these rotors are noisy when moving the bike around. They've got a fair amount of side to side play in the holders. Other people I've talked to that ran them back in the day said this was pretty normal for them. The next time I take it out I'll put more effort into really heating them up and getting all the surface rust off those rotors and seeing how they do. I will also get new pads for them and I just ordered a rebuild kit for my M/C.

Took it out for a quick shake down ride this afternoon. Pulls real nicely all the way up to 13K. Getting a little bit of surging around 4-5K when cruising, I still need to sync them and I'll see if that clears it up at all. But over all pretty damn impressed with using the recommended settings from Factory Pro.

Had a couple hours to kill in the garage today, spent some time going back and tightening all the fasteners I knew I had touched, then said screw it and reluctantly threw some new plugs in the engine and got the carbs installed with their fuel bottle still attached. An important reminder here, remember to double check your A/F screws before you have a fuel line routed through the frame to a bottle on a stand and you’re holding the carbs with one hand and screwing the mixture screws in and back out with the other. Anyway, got the carbs adjusted and installed in the bike. Don’t even hook up the throttle, either it works or it doesn’t. it fired right up! Killed the choke, adjusted the idle, noticed I’d forgotten to clamp the vacuum line for the petcock, starts and idles nicely now. Pulled the throttle cable by hand and it hit 7-8K nicely without any hesitation. it’s about 90 here(33C) and I’m tired of sweating my ass off so calling it a day. Next step is fully reassembling the bike and taking it on some test rides when it’s not so hot out. Hoping all this work accomplished something, and those stage 1 dynojet main jets could not have been helping it. More to come.

Is your shock spring wider than stock?