Upshotknothole

Check the valve clearances and cam chain slack? These engines have pretty noisy top ends.

Yeah, do what they said and take some measurements first. And like was said previously, your calipers are upsides down. Lastly, the only thing standardized with radial calipers was the spacing, well the two spacing options, the fork mounts and caliper height all vary greatly depending on what bike they came off of. The easy ones to set up are the ones that require a spacer to set the caliper height, your combination has the calipers setup for at least a 320 rotor, if not a 325-330 rotor. The reason I suggested the 1000RR calipers earlier was because I've used them before and I know they tend to sit really low on other forks and require spacers, makes them easy to fine tune the height. With your current setup, I think you have 3 options. Measure up the rotor size you actually need with those calipers, they're gonna be huge, and get them custom made. Machine down either the forks or calipers to bring the calipers down to a standard height, you can't even tell when they're on the bike, and those calipers definitely have enough meat. Or find different calipers that sit lower, keep your current rotors, but swap out those brake lines as they're going to be too long. Here's an example of what I'm talking about. Gold calipers were stock(and crap), black calipers are h*nda monoblocks. That gap is how far out the Tokico calipers need to sit to clear the rotors. And here's the final setup, still has 320 rotors, with spacers installed and the calipers are sitting right where they should on the rotors.

Post up a photo of your current setup. What bike are the Brembos off of?

When you swap radial calipers onto other forks, a lot of times you have to use spacers to get the to the correct height. 1000RR calipers sit really low and use spacers to sit at the right height. Makes them easy to swap onto to other forks and adjust the spacer height. If you look on Eblag and compare 05 1K calipers to similar year 1000RR calipers, you'll see what I mean. That would probably be the easiest, they use locating spacers so they'll need to be machined down too.

You could also find some calipers that would require spacers and run slightly smaller spacers that'll get the calipers to line up with your rotors. Probably easier than searching for 320 rotors that'll fit an Inazuma wheel. 1000RR or R1 monoblocks would be my first guess for what would work. The h*nda ones tend to be cheaper and easier to find.

They're not a full set, should be 4 unique intakes, instead they give you two of the same left and two of the same right intakes.

Compare the parts diagrams and numbers, Suzuki is notoriously cheap with stuff and likes to share parts across models.

Here’s a slingshot cowl I have with the factory markings. Not sure what the slabbies had, but should have something on it if it’s factory.

Yeah, the straight spoke W wheels are lighter than the curved oil cooled wheels. Like you said, you have the banana style. The braced had a large brace welded to the top of a more conventional looking swing arm. They're both the same dimensions and mounting though. Pretty sure you use the knuckle and dog bones for the W swing arm and the shock too if you have it. Check the build threads, or start a build thread for your bike, and post some photos of your bike, we like photos of bikes here. Here's a 91 1100 with a 750W swing arm, as well as a braced and banana 1100W swing arms.

I just double checked 750W wheels in my 91 750 a while back because I couldn't remember. The 1100w rear wheel is not a straight swap into an oil cooled swing arm, but a 90/91 rear wheel is if you just want a 5.5" wheel. The front end is a straight swap, don't even think you need to change bearings for that, and the W wheels fit the slingshot forks if you happen to have the set. The 750W swing arm is pretty easy to swap over, even better if it's the braced model. Gotta double up the sleeves as the W has a larger pivot shaft, and need a spacer in the middle to keep everything in place. The 1100W wheel should then fit in the 750W swing arm, but you'll need the matching sprocket carrier, spacers and caliper hanger. I've only done it with a 750W wheel, but I'm pretty sure the 1100W stuff is the same. Chain alignment should be similar to stock, and you're keeping the same rear caliper hanger and rotor combo so they don't change. W wheel in 91 750 forks is the easiest upgrade, as it's a lighter wheel. Otherwise W front ends swap over and you get to keep your mechanical speedo. Anything newer than that and you'll lose the speedo drive. Also all the early USD forks are heavy. Check out the archives on the main page for the site, as well as build threads and just browsing through all the stuff in the oil cooled section. The slingshots and Ws were pretty similar and not that hard to swap parts between. The SRADs are more similar to the K bikes in how their rear suspension bolts up, and harder to fit without some customization.

A mate has one like that on an 87, I think it fits over the one piece seat.

Aftermarket or they had it on hand off another oil cooled bike?

Only one part number listed for that spring that I can find. Someone probably changed out the previous one at some point.

The idle adjust bracket matched up with the W carbs I saw, the one for the Trumpet was different. We never got the 40s here in the states, only the 36s, and probably some parts of Europe got them as well. And the 1100Ws had dual throttle cables.

They look really similar, but the bracket that holds the idle adjuster looks more like a W model. Found an Eblag link with the trumpet carbs to compare. https://www.Eblag.com/itm/166683597919?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=upabpsgjsow&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY