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About Upshotknothole

  • Birthday January 6

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    Portland, OR

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  1. That's always been my take on the carb tops. Seems like the volume and the height would be designed to work with specific diaphragms and slides.
  2. Those GSXR/teapot intake boots are also one of the ones that Suzuki decided to discontinue, and are in the highest demand because they're the only ones that fit Mikuni RS carbs without serious alterations.
  3. Buy a case of those plugs so you'll have spares in the future.
  4. Sometimes really all they need is to be ridden and all the cobwebs blown out.
  5. The Yosh ignition covers also remove the oil pressure sender from there.
  6. A good quality 520 or 530 chain is fine for these engines. Chains have gotten a lot stronger in the decades since these bikes were new and called for heavy duty chains.
  7. If the intakes are right, it should all work. But, like you said, the BST38s are big carbs, second largest that you could get in an oil cooled engine. The thing that has me wondering is they said they got new intake boots, and Suzuki discontinued them a while ago. Guessing they maybe got some of the Chinese intakes that are all over Eblag and don't include the right parts. Just had a look on Eblag and they're listing the knockoff GSXR intakes for 89-90 750s now, which doesn't make any sense to me at all. Different engines and different carbs between 89 and 90. BST38s aren't even close to fitting 88-89 intakes either.
  8. Carefully remove the cap off of one of the carbs. There's a small o-ring under it that you don't want to lose, and a large rubber diaphragm that you need to be careful with as well. Lift the diaphragm up from the carb body and the slide will come up with it. Hanging out the bottom of the slide is the needle. Once it's out of the carb, you can carefully pull the needle out of the slide. Make a note of where all of the spacers are on it. Small adjustments go a long way with the needle height. Usually if the needle is worn, there will be obvious scrape marks or wear signs. Emulsion tubes are a lot more work to get to, and the wear on them is a lot less obvious. For now, if the needles have multiple slots for the clip to go, you'll want to move the clip up to the next higher notch, lowering the needle slightly when you insert it back into the carb. If the needles don't have multiple slots, this won't work and you can reassemble the first carb that you opened up. If you're able to lower all of the needles one notch, take it for a test ride and any bogging you had in the mid range that was due to worn emulsion tubes, should be slightly better now.
  9. Lowering the needles a notch or two is a quick and easy way to test if the emulsion tubes are worn without the hassle of removing the carbs. You can also check the needles at the same time to make sure they're not worn. Stock carbs or do they have a jet kit?
  10. I have the ACC rear sets on a slingshot as well, and really like them.
  11. You should be able to keep the stock rear fender when it's all done. Start by removing everything off the tail, especially those black luggage/tie down bars. The tail should slide on from the rear, and then start figuring out what needs to be cut away. Once you start removing some material and keep repeatedly taking it on and off, it will loosen up a bit. I've had this tail for maybe 20 years? Been on a few different bikes, and I've always been able to run the stock under tray, the full fender would fit if I still had it. It uses three bolts and the seat to keep it in place, and the tail light helps keep it straight in the back.
  12. All of the Airtech stuff is like that. They're designed for race bikes mainly, and they expect you to trim them to fit your setup. I've had one of their solo tails on a slingshot for ages and it's all hacked up and custom mounts to get it to roughly line up right. I'd start by removing everything off the sides of the sub frame, get the tail mounted in place, and then figure out how much you need to trim off the bottom of the tail to get it to fit around the stuff that you can't move. It's a bitch to work on the bike with the tail in place, but it's only 3 bolts for me to remove mine. They also get a little bit more flexible with age and pulling it on and off a lot.
  13. They haven't been around here in almost 2 years, doubt you'll get an answer from them.
  14. Here's the ACC rearsets if that helps at all. Uses a rose joint screwed directly onto the MC shaft.
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