dupersunc

That's Bloody lovely. Carry on.

Won't get any where near.

Be very careful about paying up front with Trident.

I heard Trident had gone under, and left a bit of a mess behind. The jigs are still out there, but I'm not sure where.

I'm doing a six speed 1127 swap at the moment, my next job is getting the countershaft done, I'll let you know what I come up with.

Not usless you're running bsb pace or have very,very, squidgy frame. Removing the headlight etc is good, like wise a the lighter gsxr 1000 front wheel. Generally Gsxrs responded to more rear ride height, which takes rake and trail out of the front end, an helps them turn better. You've done something similar by fitting shorter forks, but if the offset in the yokes is different you may have actually increased the amount of trail you have hence the difficulty in getting it turned.

Those red trumpets were stock on all carbed srads. You'll definitely need them to make the carburation work properly

Are you run the stock wheels? they weigh only marginally less than Jupiter. Look at the amount of trail your running also. It's possible that the frame you've posted has less rake built into the headstock, which will reduce the trail, but you'll only notice the bracing if your running very, very quickly indeed.

No need to purge this stuff. it's nice but not needed. T45 is over kill really, CDS or CFS3bk is plenty good enough. EN8 for bosses if you use CDS, EN14 if you want to be fancy or use T45. We use ER70 s2 rod for this sort of thing.

Just measured up a couple of sprocket spacers. 750jk (4.5" rear) 17.5mm, 1100L 19.66mm, Bandit 1200 19.00mm

I run both Slabbies and Slingshot 750s currently both running 1127 motors and 5.5" slingshot rears. I run 180/60 supercorsas on them, the chain is very close on one side, and the torque arm on the other. A 525 chain rubs a little in use, the 520 chain on the slabbie just clears. I run 14/48 gearing, good for 155mph at 10500rpm. Which is perfect for a stockish 1127 motor.

Bandits and later slingshots had a wider spacer behind the front sprocket. If run a 180 tyre , especially a 60 profile, the chain will be fucking close to the tyre even on a stock slingshot.

My local paint supplier does custom matched 2k aerosols. I'm going to take a cam cover to him in the new year and give that a go.

most are -8, if you want -10 it shouldn't be a problem, all the earls coolers I've seen have a large bsp female thread, and an adaptor to take it to -6,-8, or -10jic as required.

Clear coating rusty shit, or any bare metal is just wank. Great find though, and love the period mods on the other GS.

Loads of room. Gs550 frame with cobbled together GSXR1100 engine

The Shorai batteries are very good, but I've been just as happy with a much cheaper JMT battery.

Yeah I went with the old fashion measure it method. It's th 25 x 62x 19 version I need, they're a little bit cheaper from CMSNL. I've got a 1100k, and a 1100L motor here and the both have V710 engine no's The 1152 have is V719 and has the wider 21.6mm bearing. Cheers for the replys

This^.Most of them are made up of the same cells in side different plastic cases. Take the top off and they are half empty

V711 engine code is a 1052 slabby engine? can anyone confirm or correct this. I'm rebuilding an ex side car motor, which is fitted with 1127 barrels bored out to 81mm. The gearbox is fubared, so I'm fitting a bandit gearbox cluster, but the out put bearings are different. I need to order the correct bearing for the V711 cases. Original bearing numbers (838031BSH) don't bring anything up on google.

Not my experience at all. I've found Lithium iron phosphate batteries to be extremely robust and reliable, and happy to be drained flat and recharged multiple times. These are slightly different chemistry to your iphone battery. The do need the correct charger. Optimates, and other conditioning type chargers will damage them, you can buy special fancy chargers, or use the old cheapy chargers, they work fine. I tend to stick a set of jump leads on my van to charge them, takes about 15 mins for my slabbie battery. They're fine for jump starting too. I've also notice they don't degrade like traditional batteries you can leave them all winter, even flat, and they'll take a full charge come spring, with no noticeable loss of performance. Yes your charging system needs to be in good order as it does for any battery. I'm not going to bother with conventional batteries in future. They're an easy place to save weight, and the cost difference was less than £40.

R1 discs are a pain as they have a big mounting pcd. The offset was the same for years on R1s, though they did change to 320mm fro 300mm on later bikes. Speak to Kayla at Projection components she'll sort what you want. http://www.projection-components.co.uk/yamaha-r1r6-type-5-bolt-disc-spacer-1097-p.asp

Sorry @KATANAMANGLER I'm going to have to pass on this for the time being. I'll have to take my chances and see if there any spaces left in the new year.

Rebuild what you have. They're a pretty good set of forks. Fit stiffer springs if you intend to ride on track.. Service the calipers, decent pads, braided lines and a radial m/c. That will perform well enough for most.

Sir has not seen my tool kit.