Gixer1460

Having never experienced this I can only think bent stems or massive corrosion on stems or seats. So if you can get it started it may benefit from an 'Italian Tune-up' or if not, i'd top end strip it to check it!

Not sure an 18 will fit inside the cover anyway! That's pretty tall gearing already - ie 140 @ redline? Dropping 3 off the back would have similar effect as one on the front! - 17/45 is my turbo bike gearing!

Not trying to muddy the waters but a swirl pot is usually fed by separate low pressure pump and has pot over flow back to main tank. The fuel rail return is usually back to the pot. The reasoning is the continual circulation of fresh cool fuel. Whilst this system is more used in cars having tanks susceptible to surge from cornering it could be applied to a bike. One thing - a vent from the pot to the main tank would help as you can't flow liquid into a closed container (rapidly) if the air can't get out!

We don't like seeing this ! ! ! Excessive sealant - imagine all the bits you can't see! Whip the sump off and check the strainer if the engine has been run........................if it hasn't - shame on you !

Doesn't sound to 'out of the ballpark' - got to be worth a try? Worst case scenario is you'd have to change some flanges to fit a TD04 or adapt them (they aren't that much different)

The only good cat is one thrashing around in a plastic bag as you launch it and a brick into the nearest canal!

I believe not - Blandits have different plugs, wiring and internal changes that make them unsuitable / un-usable ........ red line for one!

Look at some of the work from Big CC Racing - that man knows what it takes to make power - attention to detail in the pipework for one.

Whilst I tend to agree with external gates both of my installs have used internal gates - no boost creep detected and with the big power bike, two port actuator and AMS 1000 boost controller, I have total control and gear dependent boost, all programmable - nice to avoid 30lbs of boost in 1st, 2nd or 3rd LOL!

Just a thought - 1100M forks aren't the lightest things + the mods required is a lot of effort - Have you considered a lighter weight RWU set-up ........ Kev used a set of 125 forks on his CompBike, although up to 250 would still be appropriate. If the overall weight is low it's easier to accelerate - big advantage in drag racing.

Yes! If it needed a screwdriver through it - you sir are a butcher and should have your tools taken away LOL! - they really don't need more than finger tight!

Just use a weatherproof blade fuse holder with a 30A fuse and consign the breaker to the bin!

There isn't an actual 'point' when it makes sense! Use of lots of revs with frequent on and off the throttle can stress the OEM tensioner which can back out with all the consequences a slack chain brings...... so a manual tensioner that can't back out makes sense. OEM springs are cheap enough in the tensioner but a manual tensioner is fairly fool proof except over tightening. Otherwise not really needed - bit of a fashion statement like cam links - fit whatever you like!

Beautifully Descriptive.............................although is that big or small Dugga's?

Oooooooh - playing in CompBike, like it! They are a good crowd in there - It used to be like Clampett Land in the pits as no one had any money! Enjoy!

I only guessed that as I used a GS sprocket cover on my EFE drag motor and all but one bolt lined up so had plenty !

LOL! Then it could be a GS cover !

Std nuts are about 12mm total thread length and can take about 25% over torque - the extra length with APE nuts can't clamp much more although with their studs the threads are less likely to pull. The extra length caters for block with spacer plates for stroke increases. Before APE nuts were commonly available ...... these suzuki items were usually used - #12!

Wouldn't GS1100X denote a GSX cover not a GS one? I wonder if someone swapped in a later GSX 1100 ign. system inc. ecu after a tumble damaged the GS parts - could have different ign. timing - that's my only guess?

Now, this is the King H'Box and it is proper!............. for any of our younger viewers LOL! Don't you just love the protective racing attire - who did it? - Jeans, trainers and that was it .... Me for one!

I'd say yes - use them. With GSXR's there are copper washers fitted (obviously for some peculiar reason!) which the APE nuts can't substitute! + it stops the nuts galling on the seating within the head.

'kin hell - compared to your hand, that outlet flange is 'kin enormous! Sorry no idea on brand or model but looks like it'll need a fair bit of adaptation for bike use?

Try this ....... https://shopbhp.com/products/denso-pencil-stick-coil-on-plug-cop-connectors-cbr-gsxr-hayabusa-motorcycle?variant=25483609793 This where I was planning to get some from but not urgent for me. If you can't find actual plugs then possibly fit mini blade connectors to fly leads, fit on terminals and silicon into place and weatherproof - bit ghetto but would work, make up a whole sub loom for the COP's with one single plug 5 or 6 pin?

Can get them on the Bay of EEEEEE's - £10 - 12.00 for a set?

Old style Mini Exhaust Bobbins work for me - stud at each end and rubber joining them.