Gixer1460

Or just wait till the next change?

Alphasports list these as #6 - 125mm x M8 and #7 -115mm x M8, so any good bolt supplier should be able to supply plated steel cap head screws - Grade 8.8 should be ok. Query - Isn't a Harris F1 a steel tubular frame not alloy ? ? ?

Don't do Faceache but looked at their site and couldn't find any info on the 'superfinishing' process - maybe it's some sort of blasting come polishing? Anyone confirm or clarify? The polishing aspect worries me as things like cams and valve stems have a certain 'roughness' to hold on to oil for lubrication......too slick, loss of oil = metal to metal contact? And why is no one else doing it - particularly engine tuners? Happy to be educated!

i'm not too skilled in reading compressor maps and have never seen that rule of thumb but Google says it is a good guide - I'm guessing atmospheric would be added, putting you in the 200-225hp region which seems about right for a T25?

Psssst - Read rule #5.................I didn't make them ! ! !

And forget a 11500 redline - doubt it will ever get over 10k - mine makes max power between 8.5-9k Looks like 15lb airflow at 1.6 pressure ratio looks about bang on ideal for max efficiency?

I used to get gearboxes for the Comp / FB from Robinson Industries Inc - New York USA. Bloody good gear, not cheap but worked except when pilot error bent the shift shafts DOH - LOL! Any gearbox that can go a whole season in a FB as a flat shift 5 speed auto without breaking will get my $$$

Least it won't burn you like oldskool turbo dump pipes - hands up who's done that! ...................yep check !

Oiy - i've got copyright on that ! LOL!

There isn't - the Blandit has essentially the same gear cluster as the last GSXR M / N's having a slightly better undercut on the dogs. They can be improved with a specialist 'pro cut' undercut which changes the angles to lock them better but a worn dog is still a worn dog and replacement will only improve the gears that get replaced...... 2nd is the usual one that normally needs 5th replaced as well as they run together as a pair.

Explains a lot!

Just looking at that drive belt - its about the same size as the one driving my alternator and water pump on the car - looks a bit undersized to me - a toothed Gates timing belt would be better?

Vent should always go to an airspace or it doesn't function as a vent! Using a -8 or -10 main to pot via gravity is fine just add the vent - 6mm is plenty. Can vent anywhere as long as above main tank.

The OEM's seem to like sprocket combinations that end up as 1:3 ratio ie 14/42, 15/45, 16/48 and 17/51. @gs7_11 - that is pretty tall - it is approx 15% overdriven compared to the 'OEM 1:3 ideal' but means needing approx 15-20+% more torque to achieve a similar acceleration!

The DOT heads have a different inlet angle and rubbers to suit the 38mm carbs hence the disparity so yes a bit of carving with a carbide burrs would help as that step will hurt airflow! Stuff the inlets with rags before you start - if not removing the head - not familiar with the rubber part numbers - assume they are from a bandit with 36mm carbs? GSXR part #'s usually end 10, 20, 30 and 40 to get them on correct inlets.

Anyone else clocked the rpm range - really ? just shy of 20,000 rpm? If that's not right - what else?

Having never experienced this I can only think bent stems or massive corrosion on stems or seats. So if you can get it started it may benefit from an 'Italian Tune-up' or if not, i'd top end strip it to check it!

Not sure an 18 will fit inside the cover anyway! That's pretty tall gearing already - ie 140 @ redline? Dropping 3 off the back would have similar effect as one on the front! - 17/45 is my turbo bike gearing!

Not trying to muddy the waters but a swirl pot is usually fed by separate low pressure pump and has pot over flow back to main tank. The fuel rail return is usually back to the pot. The reasoning is the continual circulation of fresh cool fuel. Whilst this system is more used in cars having tanks susceptible to surge from cornering it could be applied to a bike. One thing - a vent from the pot to the main tank would help as you can't flow liquid into a closed container (rapidly) if the air can't get out!

We don't like seeing this ! ! ! Excessive sealant - imagine all the bits you can't see! Whip the sump off and check the strainer if the engine has been run........................if it hasn't - shame on you !

Doesn't sound to 'out of the ballpark' - got to be worth a try? Worst case scenario is you'd have to change some flanges to fit a TD04 or adapt them (they aren't that much different)

The only good cat is one thrashing around in a plastic bag as you launch it and a brick into the nearest canal!

I believe not - Blandits have different plugs, wiring and internal changes that make them unsuitable / un-usable ........ red line for one!

Look at some of the work from Big CC Racing - that man knows what it takes to make power - attention to detail in the pipework for one.

Whilst I tend to agree with external gates both of my installs have used internal gates - no boost creep detected and with the big power bike, two port actuator and AMS 1000 boost controller, I have total control and gear dependent boost, all programmable - nice to avoid 30lbs of boost in 1st, 2nd or 3rd LOL!