Gixer1460

Depends if you are still running oil up the studs? If you are, then changing the seals / gaskets is recommended if the old ones have been used for a while - a re-used gasket is a false economy if it pisses out a mist of oil spoiling the build! If no oil up the studs then there's nothing much to leak but personally i'd still do it!

Oil boilers are old skool enough and think of the weight benefit! A m8 has just picked up a Mag F1 with a 750 SRAD conversion - needs a fairing though!

Back in the day Racer tip - fill it full of silicone!

Puzzled! - post a picture of the regulator as they don't normally have a drain or pressure checking pipe! Oh and your oil drain pump isn't a Facet but it does look like the type Fruitloops uses so should be adequate (more like a screen wash pump to be honest! LOL)

I don't profess to be an expert on these but weren't Kat engines silver stock with plain chromed cam caps? Also 24 bolt cam cover = early motor then 20 bolt then the 10 bolt EFE cover along with the big taper crank? Didn't know 'proper' kats available with that crank?

Pretty much most coils from all the manufacturers are 3 ohm if fitted with electronic ignition and don't have individual coils!

From my experience, one way valves aren't reliable once flow stops then the turbo fills with oil and either leaks from inlet and / or exhaust or smokes massively on start up!

Oil feed from main gallery below the Ignition cover - will require adapter and either hose fitting or banjo & bolt. Return - anywhere higher than running oil level if pumped return, usually top of clutch cover is practical - requires weld on fitting or tap and fit adapter for min. dash 8 hose! Don't use the oil filler / crankcase vent - you'll need that regardless!

A push fit like that is airtight like a sausage in a hoola hoop when boosted air pressure is involved. Stock installation is at atmospheric pressure ie. zero - throw 1 psi at it and it'll leak like a sieve! You may get away with a liberal coating of RTV in the groove and around the rubber flanges but its got to resist any movement liable to split it putting / taking the carbs off and on.

Nice - but how do you ensure they are sealed to the box once its all welded up?

Well I stand corrected then - I guess 90+ ftlbs helps with 5 gears!

Thought that was Blandit gearing? Pretty sure my 'K / L' gearing was 15/45 stock. But i've run 14 and 17 front and never thought I need another gear!

Go with APE - tried and tested 000's of times - well trusted and regarded!

Plastic resin holds the fibres together - it was a 'tongue in cheek' remark!

Lesson - don't send a plastic pipe to do a metal mans job! LOL

Stage 3 DJ is probably way to fat for just a can and filter! Changing plugs won't change mixture so revert to std and get the AFR sorted. Doesn't matter how free flowing the filters are, if its to fat to burn its too fat! Internet tuning is never really successful - book a few hours on a dyno and get it right!

If you are going to 'end feed', its best to taper down towards the last carb to keep the airflows a bit sensible - centre feed is an option cos a) it reduces that effect and b) you don't keep bashing your knee on it! Dunno about pitot size - 3/8 or 10mm max rings a bell? Air inlet - no smaller than turbo outlet - why strangle it? and larger only reduces pressure and gets re-strangled at the plenum. Gas speed helps pitot function IMO.

LOL - don't fancy yours much!

Yeah that'd be good - looking at something not moving! LOL

Ha Ha Ha! yer big Gurl! I didn't need a rev limiter on my old Kawazuki .......drag bars + turbo + no protection meant 155 was as fast as it would ever go before I got blown off the back - think 18 stone parachute!

I thought 'No Nails' glue was more your style!

I'm sort of puzzled by their quoted rwhp figures 226hp @ 0.4bar boost and 362hp @ 1.3bar !!! A N/A engine making 125hp (bloody good for a bandit) is only taking in an additional 40% air/fuel so should only make another 50hp so how is it possible? Likewise that same engine (which actually has to be de-compressed to cope) is taking 130% more air/fuel so potentially adds 150hp = 275hp ??? Even Busa engines decompressed a bit only hit close to 300 @ 1 bar boost - just saying the #'s don't stack up. I know what it takes to make 370hp and its considerably more than offered in those kits - just saying!

Re Comp. Ratio see here........ http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/index.php?/topic/885-gsxr1300-pistions-and-750-dot-head/&page=1

No its not and it will suffer for it. By the time you add enough spring weight to stop the slip you'd be hard pressed to pull in the lever! Nothing makes mid range torque like a turbo and that's exactly where the plates give up!

Glad you found such an easy bolt on conversion - congrats