CrashTheSuzi

Next idea is to just find a completely different system. Ive found a Delkevic thats stainless and seems to b low at the muffler but i cant seem 2 find pics of how high the muffler is. I do plan on putting bags back on the replacement. Can anybody help me w height measurements? Or recommendations to look into? Thx https://www.z1enterprises.com/delkevic-gs750e-1980-1982-4-1-s-s-exhaust-system.html

No numbers. But the hanger is higher than the 750L mount by about 3" Thats about the mounting position and my adapter. As i was smart enough to not take a picture on the bike...

No im not sure its carbon. Thats my best guess w as lightweight as it is and its from the 80s or 90s. Supposedly.. never heard of a plastic can.. Guy was building a class competitive cafe racer but it sat too long n rusted the cylinders. Ill try 2 contact him also when i can work again. Still recovering i will try to remember to look at it when im at my dad's 2moro (50 miles away) which is where its stored

1980 gs750L cager took me out last april but my low mileage 816 wiseco engine is undamaged. I picked up this exhaust from the college when they were going to scrap it. Its a vintage Yoshimura exhaust with a carbon can. But its so old it has no discernable weave to it. Wondering if anyone can help me identify what bike it would have been built for and/or what headers i could replace them with. #3 and #4 or torn badly. I do plan on rebuilding the bike when i find a chassis. Especially as i will start a new job as a kaw suz tech when the snow clears. Any suggestions appreciated. Ive spent 3 months trying to find stuff. Closest possible match i found was gs1000. But these r angled straight bends not the round hand-bent header if that makes sense. It is painted black but idc bout that.

You might try syncing the carbs. If u dont have the vaccuum gauges u can set the butterflies to a piece of wire. Set the idle control carb to "slight drag" on a small chunk of solid wire n make the others match. Reset ur idle b4 u start it tho.

Obviously intake manifolds r important. Wd40 will smoke thru air leaks. Brake clean will cause revving and can catch fire. Propane torch thru a small hard-line makes it easier to pinpoint where it is and u can remove the fire if it lights. Causes revving when there is a leak.

Id say ur on the right track there. Set ur valve clearances, (loose is better than tight). Then set ur float heights, finally sync them. If it still pops and ur slides r not rattling id recommend an ultrasonic dip for the carbs. It will usually rattle loose any spider eggs / flotsam wedged in the carb circuits

Pingel makes a manual petcock that fits with the adapter plate. Ive got one on my GS750L. Altho mine might be a knock-off brand i forget, but it works well.