Gixer1460

'Gives up' - how? Slips, grabs, stops working ? Any clutch, on any bike, of any power should cope with a few minutes of stop / start traffic (race bike / drag bike clutches excepted!)

Try and do one side at a time - put rag over the shift drum to catch anything / keep anything out of the crankcase / sump (cos you just know that's where they are going to end up - sod's law and all that!) Not difficult job - just take time and reference the manual!

Does the starter clutch spin freely one way and not the other? Best take the starter clutch off as that is potentially where the problem is - although that wouldn't explain why battery is getting hot unless its internally shorting ! ! !

The GSXR has a better basket - doesn't groove as bad as aluminium! The lock-up design is piss easy and would be a few minutes (ok about an hour) on a CNC the L shaped arms in steel is the hardest bit!

You've got earthing problems - everything is trying to earth itself via other bulbs and not the ground / frame connections - look for corroded connectors and broken wires!

There are springs inside the two rectangular pieces / pawls, to push them out and engage with the shift the drum & move it around. Like any spring they get tired and get a set - maybe you need new springs?

You can add super heavy springs and end up with a really heavy clutch that still slips or use something that works - the lock-up. Turbo's make a lot of torque low down and just springs don't cut it! By tour name I assume the base is a Bandit 1200? The clutch on them isn't the best - certainly the lego basket, a swap to a GSXR all steel one maybe a good upgrade.

Does this happen when engine is running and / or out on the road? It is likely the gearbox might act differently when under load and you are using the clutch?

Whilst a Dyna 'S' is a good upgrade on this model you need to fit additional items to get a satisfactory outcome! As std. this bike is all electronic ignition and if fitted with a Dyna S it would require sourcing and fitting a mechanical advancer unit from an earlier 750 ( 1981 for example ) and also that models timing / pick up cover as the ATU adds about 1/2" in depth. With all the extra stuff, you may as well buy a Dyna 2000 - easier to fit and has tuning potential if required. Other electronic ignitions are available - but i've only used Dyna so that's what I recommend.

In answer to pipe routing Q - I would have single pipe from tap to tee (positioned over fuel inlet to #1 & #2 carbs) straight 100mm ? pipe straight down with longer pipe to #3 & #4 off the other tee outlet. This allows a little bit of tank lift but no excess - if you want excess then put the tee over 3&4 with longer loop back to tap.

Duff Reg / Rectifier - change it if planning a road trip - under-volting a battery is as bad as over-volts!

I can't remember what I had for breakfast yesterday so no I can't even remember what the link led to!

They do not.

They are mechanically 'noisy' - part of their charm ! But at that mileage the cam chain could be getting towards its EOL but possibly the cam chain tensioner spring is going / has gone slack and not applying correct tension - I'd check that first as relatively easy. Cam chains can be done insitu or without splitting the cases - done it myself with a 1327 engine but strip down is the correct 'by the book' method.

Virtually no one does it that way! If you do, you are married to the minimum 3" over length. The more usual way iscut the adjuster off and make a new over length one, spigotted into the extg. box section - other advantage only one weld!

Another Happy customer - Keep the receipt / invoice safe as the needles will wear eventually and Proof of Purchase is always useful to claim new parts under Lifetime Warranty!

Apologies - Brain Fart ! Completely missed the 'EFE' bit and assumed 1100 oil cooled ! ! ! Quite right the aircooled engine doesn't have them . . . . . . . . . . maybe they should LOL!

There are 6No. O rings that seal the outer 4 studs and 2No at the front - did you replace these? As oil will be under pressure in these stud cavities so prime leak source.

This gives all the secrets away - If only this had been around back in the day!

That's what I keep mentioning to SWMBO

It went 10.5 flat @ 141 and got runner up at a Straightliners event with my lardy arse on board - you being a featherweight should crack serious 9's with the 'big boys' turbo!

Yes its a pain in the arse but you have to build it up before you find it's wrong - not having the tensioner in place allows slack in the chain runs. If you find its a tooth out - mark it with Tipex chain and gear, carefully loosen the caps off and move the chain to correct the 1-4 mark, replace caps and check again - obvs checking the right number of pins between marks on the cams!

For a GS750 I don't believe there will be options - OEM only ...... if you can get them!

More than likely a notchy basket / hub especially if original ! If they are, then you could try redressing the faces - but it rarely works for more than a few months, replacement is the only cure (if it is that!)

You won't - Carrillo or Falicon are the rods of choice - if if budget is a strong motivation the Chinese Maxspeeding Rods are maybe an option! Although 250hp should be ok with stock rods