Gixer1460

Gravity doesn't really work if the turbo core drain is below the running oil level - its not a new phenomenon!

https://www.screwfix.com/p/tpi-368-infrared-non-contact-pocket-thermometer/8577k - not too spendy!

There are two versions of Dyna 2000 - early ones were pre-programmed with fixed advance and retard curves, the later ones (2000i) were programmable and curves could be changed. Early ones had the orange wire, later used a purple and a white. How are you testing this to get the results you are? What value of retard are you dialing in?

That's pretty much std factory solution - maybe ok for emissions regulations but a) burning fumes is not as good as fuel / air and b) modified engines tend to breathe heavy and filling the airbox with oil isn't recommended ......... besides who uses airboxes anyway LOL!

Graphogen may have affected the plates and why in Gods name did you use Brake Fluid to soak the plates ? ? ? It maybe oil but you don't use it in an engine! Whilst the oil you've used as a flush maybe touted for bikes only certain bikes tend to 'get on with it' - and with what you've done to your plates they are likely not to like fully synth oil! BTW are they genuine Suzuki or aftermarket - the latter would also be a concern! Sorry its not looking good!

That's no VFR arm - they used 4 bolt wheels. That's even better - its an RC30 arm with possibly a Marvic wheel? Could it be an RGV frame? I know jack about 2 strokes!

I defy anyone to notice any measurable difference 1 tenth of a ratio makes unless its with detonation?

Minimal - maybe 0.25 tops but you need sealant which will lose most of that so why bother!

There's a project for someone with a 3D printer - leverless std. microswitch in printed frame with diaphragm and plunger ? What sort of pressure are you wanting to operate at? I'm guessing with all the solid state electronics on cars nowadays, old skool 'mechanical' stylee Hobbs switches are becoming redundant?

Is there a 'kin echo in here?

What ever you use make sure its 'oil safe' ie. won't degrade whilst in contact with oil. Sounds daft but acrylic tube will last about 3-6 months before it goes brittle and cracks. If you can find Viton in the right bore that should be ok.

Answered your own question - winner winner chicken dinner LOL!

What are you doing to them - they are probably one of the most reliable bits in the Ignition system - I've never had one fail across multiple bikes over 25 odd years? It's a simple coil of wire and magnetic field that generates a voltage when a ferrous object passes through it - there is virtually nothing to fail ? ? ?

That doesn't make any sense - if there is only 1 vac. port how would you vac. sync them? Usually all carbs will have vac. port for sync use that MUST be capped when bike is in use! Fuel tap vacuum is usually via inlet boot nipple which again shouldn't be left open if gas tap is changed to non vacuum!

Not surprising as plenty of ads state ' carbs cleaned' when the bike was only ever fitted with Throttle bodies! Some people know jack about their own bike!

The OP did that as said in their first post !

The core centreline needs to be no lower than static oil level or just below. Any much lower and oil can full the core / bearings when engine off and leak into the turbine / compressor leading to a smokey start-up. Not sure on Emtes availability anymore - I got mine from NLR in the States many years ago, some peeps on here have made their own using mini bike oil pumps - do a search!

Mounted high is foolproof and will always work. Lower mounting must be pump scavenged - some like electric, me I used mechanical Emtes type as if the engine is running it will be pumping and 'unlikely' to fail but more involved to install.

Yes - interchangeable providing it works that is!

Try the same jets - yes carbs are different, but they still essentially work the same way - btw 155's sound big if used in 34mm carbs but if the dyno says 'yes' who am I to comment

You won't know till you get in there for a look see - usually an ultrasonic bath does them / any carb a world of good!

LOL's - what do you think!

Ok so it's a wide cooler - 50% wider and looking at the ports i'm guessing inlet @ bottom and outlet @ top? So although I counted 13, it's probably 14 allowing 7 x 350 + 7 x 350 = 4.90m of finnage. A 260mm x 19 = 4.94m of finnage so near enough 2/10th of FA difference LOL! But the end 'tanks' seem about twice the depth of a normal cooler, so effective matrix may be smaller than quoted? I'd also suggest the connection tank is divided internally so the oil flows in a U pattern so not a double pass, just a single with a 180 deg. turn in the middle. Other than the connection benefits for your application, I can't see any advantages and some disadvantages if the area is actually less, but your bike, your choice

It will usually have a ground connection via the loom - later GSXR's et al have plastic cases within rubber mounts so not usually in their cases - a metal case ...... hmmmm - it certainly won't hurt!

It can't work any better than a 13 row cooler - it's the same physical 'real estate' so can't cool any better than that. In fact it'll probably hold more heat in its envelope and so cool slightly worse than a normal 13! And personally IMO a 13 has no place cooling a turbot in any situation - a 260 x 19 used to get hot enough for me! For the same face area and increased cooling either double core it for a 75% boost in cooling or add water !