Gixer1460

Yes and No LOL! Depends if the pick-ups have a single or dual pick-up arrangement. If dual, the wires can be swapped over like the coils, before the 'CDI' - the problem should swap coils . . . . . . . subject to the wiring checking out ok! But pick-ups rarely are a problem . . . . . 'CDIs' on the other hand - based on age - quite often are suspect / fail and need replacement!

Are you worried some numpty is gonna ask if its a Spondon / Bakker / Moto Martin?

Yeah - definitely a high resistance connector! They can get hot enough to melt the connector and short out the alternator phases!

I'll bet money where its coming from . . . . . . . . the 'mickey mouse' oil seals around the plug wells! Oil gets in there and drains out through the water drains! They are soooooo easy to displace when putting the cover on and the shit gets everywhere like you've dumped a litre all over it!

Just an observation - how many long drag arms are braced and they put a damn sight more power into one side of the arm that should induce twist. Keeping a drag arm straight and a tyre square to the road is essential - but no bracing LOL!

Did you check the comp. pressure with throttle wide open? 80 odd psi is really low!

Clearly weatherproof . . . . . . . . . . . NOT!

Never heard that one before? In the 'rest' position the ign. is most retarded so plug firing is close to TDC so kickback should be reduced. It's when the mechanism malfunctions and you try to start with the pick up advanced that causes the kickback ie. too much cylinder pressure to get over TDC.

I was going to add a picture with my others but realised it had a Dyna rotor on - LOL would have saved some head scratching!

Cars have an easier time a) they generally don't use roller bearings, b) gearboxes are seperated, c) their oil pumps produce copious pressure and flow. Whilst a BB turbo doesn't need much pressure it does require flow through its bearings to take heat away from the bearing cages which tend to be plastic and deform if overheated. In this regard the GSX / GS engines usually have good flow / poor pressure ! I'd concentrate on improving oil pressure to the head with its plain bearings and just feed the turbo what is available.

But also the con rod bolt size dropped from 3/8 to 5/16 - on the face of it a 'weaker' bolt!

It can be done but if the bike is used sporadically then the oil / crankcase 'traps' moisture from the air in the cases, which will through use become steam, which is carried to the catch can where it condenses and will drain back into the cases for the process to be repeated ad infinitum! Easier to catch it and discard it !

Maybe ok but mostly restrictors apply to oil cooled motors where the oil pressure is waaaaay to high! With a GSX / GS you have the opposite problem - not enough OP! As it has roller / open bearings elsewhere, personally I wouldn't bother with a restrictor - 20psi is hardly going to be an issue.

That usually causes a double fast flash rate as circuit resistance is halved! I think a 'buzzy' flasher may be caused by under voltage - i'd check supply volts?

The bit you seem to be missing with have a 'tag' on the outside - this is the bit that passes the ign. pick-up to trigger the spark. It moves / revolves via the little bump - as the arms move out against the spring through centrifugal force, they force the tag to advance its position in relation to static position. Its clunky and mechanical, but it works. See Picture - not GS1000 but similar

And Suzuki more than likely had, and used it - even back in the 80's . . . . . . but 'back yard' bodgers still think they can improve on that - with road bikes - whilst bring totally unnecessary* (unnecessary* - as in no noticeable / appreciable improvement)

Not much from the OP - we must have scared him off - to many questions!

You are assuming they used some backyard bodger! Lucky7 used to have a good rep and turned out good work in the 80/90's! As regards engineering, that is pretty good and well thought out - all main elements are connected and braced in multiple directions, sheet is lighter than tube and has greater surface area to resist torsion + its bloody nice welding! That should be stiff as f**k - bastard to paint though!

Yes the Haynes Manuals are a bit simplistic but they do assume a degree of mechanical knowledge / aptitude - they aren't 'Janet and John Build a Motorcycle' LOL! And most of the required tolerances are noted at the beginning of each chapter if they have to be checked. You may be able to track down a genuine Suzuki GT500 manual but don't hold your breath as likely out of print for probably 40 years now although Google may assist! Plus they won't give you an easy way - only use special Suzuki tools obviously.

Try reading them at the side of the road, in the dark and pissing rain - with zip ties your guide dog can sort them out

Sounds lame but putting small zip ties - 1 around plug lead #1 and 4 round #4 will ensure you never mix them in future

That's the advantage of brazing tubes - dab the rod in at the back/sides and it'll flow through capillary attraction - 'big boys soldering' really!

I did say a LOT of load, but doing stoppies would apply lower comparable forces but if done over and over . . . . . fatigue sets in aaaand ! Which comes back to the point of - if it's likely to take that level of force - why brace at all? I can't say my old Zed framed Kawazuki using GSXR 1100 'L' yokes and forks ever felt 'weak' or 'flappy' and that was entirely stock, framewise. Don't exclude the fact that USD fork and yoke combinations are significantly stronger than OEM equipment and so will transmit forces to frame that would have previously bent the forks or yokes . . . . . . and i'd put the speed closer to 30 than 50mph! The above frame could be easily 'rectified' as picture attached - triangles !

I doubt very much the benefit of adding tubes to the headstock achieves any measurable difference! Arttu's arrangement using plate gussets adds far more rigidity in engineering terms. The frame with the std. spine plates removed will be significantly worse for flex compared to stock as the lower bearing area has less restraint ie. with a lot of load via the forks it could fold inwards. Rule of bracing - make triangles, That one has a nice rhomboid behind what it is trying to brace!

When I saw the tag line my brain started thinking GS1000 / GSX1100 but then a 400! Most peeps here, don't consider things less than 600 as viable unless its a 2 smoke LOL! so don't expect too many replies but with a large selection of hammers, grinders and welding equipment, and with time and ingenuity - most anything can be made to fit anything else!