Gixer1460

Agree with Clive - at the Pod you'll get away with stacks (maybe if you don't ride back - top end ain't that clean) anywhere else deffo use filters or an airbox! I had a rock trap the butterfly open on an S&S in front of the turbo at East Kirkby which was fun - NOT!

1. Make sure it has a 12mm thread adaptor - older bikes tend to use them. 2. Easier on the starter if all 4 are out - put plugs in caps and rest the threads on cam cover. Remove tank as sparks can ignite any fuel vapours 3. I think everyone will answer the same - Oh Yes! If they've sat without being drained for anytime be prepared for nastiness!

If the side one has creased it makes it a bit tricky but someone who knows what they are doing with a gas torch could 'shrink' them out, minimising the filler. Obvs will require a repaint! Might be possible with weld pins and a slide hammer but tank metal is usually heavier guage so harder to pull out.

Sounds complicated! My method - Get a mate or two & bribe with beer - lift engine into frame upright - fit a couple of mounting bolts - drink beer!

VIN - Usually RH side Headstock. Combustion = Air + a Fuel + spark + compression . . . . . . . basic principles!

I was referring to the solenoid - not what it is mounted to! If anyone is daft enough to fit a body earthed (single control wire) solenoid to an isolated / rubber mounting plate without additional earthing strap then . . . . . .

And in oider Suzuki's, those iddy biddy ones inside the rotor!

If you understand the basic principles, you are 50% there as they aren't much more sophisticated!

True - and they are grounded through the body and mounting. Never come across a rubber mounted solenoid, always hard mounted mine without any problems!

If you just want to test the engine then a likely problem will be the carbs as the rest of the bike is a testament to disregard & abuse, these will be no exception so you may get sparks but no fuel = no running! A ghetto wiring solution is to connect bat + to orange/white of coils and CDI, ensure CDI yellow and blue (check these colours as may be different on a GS750) are connected to ign. pickups, black/yellow to coil 2/3, white to coil 1/4, any black/white to earth / chassis ground, Heavy red connected to starter soli and then to starter motor and heavy black from battery to earth / chassis ground. That will put power to the Ign system permanently and will be unswitched - take care ! - Bridging the soli terminals with a spanner will turn the engine over and should run ........ if the fuel system works. As this is ghetto - you can't turn engine off it runs, you'll have to pull the orange/white off the battery to kill it! It would be better to find a wire with colour - work out what it serves from the manual wire diagram and make the loom good between the items it serves, one wire at a time till complete and everything works - there really are no shortcuts long term and doesn't cost too much money!.................carbs might though!

The timing wheel is 'keyed' to the crankshaft so its virtually impossible although i'm sure some muppet somewhere has managed it! If you have the suzuki workshop manual it usually has a diagram indicating the camshaft timings related to TDC - just know that for a stock bike the advice / positions noted are correct and will work. Adjustable sprockets will be required to move cam timing and unless you know what you are doing - DON'T . . . . . . . pistons partying with valves always gets messy!

Do you know it will be 'inaccurate' ? Most tank sensors have about the same resistance range across bikes / cars / manufacturers and they are never much more than an 'educated guess' really!

All the info is there on the picture! Position crank so T mark is just before pick up as shown, then fit ex. camshaft so #1 mark aligns with cover machined surface then count 21/22 pins back on cam chain and fit IN. cam with #3 mark at that pin - all done! Start kicking yourself now!

Can't say it can't be done but 'scraping' is usually done on flat surfaces to true them up to micron / sub micron tolerances in flatness! As a pressurised oil fed bearing, there should never be a metal/metal contact only having oil drag to contend with! Scraping is also generally done on 'hard' materials - cast iron, steel etc. not aluminium as its too soft - any scraped peaks would be worn smooth through use.

Ok if you go dry block with external oil lines but would be risky (IMO) with pressurised oil up studs! I certainly wouldn't trust some Hylomar or ATV sealant in lieu of a shim steel / copper / paper gasket.

If it was from a WP - that was water cooled and so the oil cooler is supplementary and not a main cooler - waaaaay to small as a primary cooler! The oil lines are potentially GSXR? as on a WP the cooler is mounted low down and those lines wouldn't fit - more investigation!

Is the engine a GSX1100 or a GSX1100 EFE? The former didn't have an oil cooler, the latter did - although considering the size of them, what good they did is debatable! The oil filter cover on the EFE's is different to allow for the oil unions and divert the oil through the cooler.

Your wiring is a mess! The thick red and thick black are the only things that should be connected to the battery as std. - everything else is bogus! The problem will be that additions look to be all in black! Everything will need tracing / corrected / replaced as required. On a different matter - throw the exhaust away as it won't help the running, neither will those individual K&N's unless the carbs have been modified to suit - but with the bike looking as it does, I severely doubt it has! I foresee some power washing, lots of strip down, broken / snapped bolts, lots of parts but a serviceable bike at the end. Don't bother with a magnet - IT IS a steel frame! The bit that usually rusts is the LH lower frame rail internally - water collects here if bike is parked mainly on a sidestand!

8 row cooler seems pretty small for a main cooler on an oil boiler - aftermarket coolers would be 16 or 19 row usually IMO?

Without seeing the two different cranks side by side, I would guess that the hyvo type would be slightly stronger around the sprocket due to shallower teeth compared to the deeper tooth profile of a roller chain tooth profile? I don't recall any reports of the hyvo chain being weaker through normal use - obviously heavier poundage valve springs and increased lift cams may add more stress on the chain / sprockets which could require just more maintenance observation? A 9k red line should be well within the chain's capability for 'normal' life. Certainly a stroked crank will help in that respect - mine is a +5mm stroke but done from billet and not a forging that has been welded and i've set my max @ 10.5k. Sounds like an interesting project so i'll watch for developments.

No one mentioned 1100 crank! So as I said, 78mm bore is 78mm bore and capacity only changes via stroke - not rods!

So which is it? Using longer or shorter rods won't make any difference with capacity unless the crank is stroked / de - stroked !

Look stock to me - no evidence of grinding and port not matched to rubbers. Valve guides are acceptably short which is good.

I think the OP means its steel ie. attracted to a magnet!

Can't see you gaining (loosing width between individual TB's) as you'll still need adjustment mechanisms between so sounds like a lot of aggro for no big gain seeing as the plenum isn't exactly 'off the shelf' anyway?