bigyellowthing

As far as I can tell, starter end case broke, jammed starter, battery couldn't turn starter so battery crapped out. Replaced battery and starter end cap. Fixed Thanks for all your help. G

EBC plates with OEM steels. Adjusted in the normal way. Neutral easy to find until hot when virtually impossible. Have been known to adjust at the handlebar several times in a day. Once cool returns to normal.

The lever and the pivot are standard. I have tried moving the clutch actuator (on crankcase) on the splines in to he past but returned it all to standard specs.

Sorry, There is drive when the clutch lever is back to the bars. The biting point moves quickly until there is no disengagement at all. It is the only bike I have ever ridden that does this in the 35 years I've been riding with 3 years as an instructor.

The starter button ok as starter spins when not connected to the starter clutch.

I'll measure the thread, standard wheels and suspension long gone...

Starter brushes are well within spec. Starter replaced in 2015 and bike done embarrassingly low mileage since..

Hi Gixer1460 The lever comes back to the bar. Replaced the clutch plates a while back but it made no appreciable difference. I fitted an oil cooler and there was no improvement. Have even tried different viscosity oils. Any ideas?

Are any of these fixes any good for riding in town? My 81 1100 clutch gives up after a couple of minutes in traffic.

And.. Which flywheel puller do I need? There seem to be several different ones. Thanks again for your help and advice

Cheers guys. The battery isn't hot enough to melt but fluid has been spat out of the breather. Something I'd drawing loads of current. Is this what is making the solenoid click on and off rapidly? Battery showing plenty of volts. The starter clutch ring gear will move clockwise but not anti-clockwise (the way the starter spins).

Motor turns over on the crank end bolt. The starter spins without any load but turning the starter clutch gear is nigh on impossible with the relay clicking and battery getting hot.

This happened, replaced end cap and now relay clicks repeatedly and battery gets hot. Starter spins until it is installed when relay clicks quickly but engine doesn't. Battery is fine, all connections tight Help... Any ideas?

Measured as shown in manual between ,+ primary and HT output (secondary). There is only one output on this coil.

Hi All Please help this electrical idiot the Secondary resistance should be 10Kish. When measuring an ignition coil with my cheap multimeter (rapitest MAS 830 L) When set to 2M ohms I get a reading of 1.996 on two but 1.49 on the third. Is this OK and why doesn't it read on the 20k scale? Any help greatly appreciated G