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Gixer1460

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Everything posted by Gixer1460

  1. I have to agree - the 38mm CV's as fitted to the 750's were the only carb (other than RS flatslides) fitted with the MJ access 'nut'. So unless someone has swapped the float bowls onto a rack of 36's, those must be 38's? And they are as tall as 40mm CV's which are huge!
  2. In someone's wet dream maybe! 65 links will do the top run but sure as hell won't join the bottom! Std. length at a guess is around 108 - 112 links ....... better a bit longer than short a couple of links!
  3. Much of a muchness really - Bandit barrels would be my preference if I was doing another - 80mm bore for 1186cc and use MTC turbo pistons 10:1 CR if low boost but crowns are thick enough to machine down to 8:1 CR for Loadsa boost!
  4. A 'bit' of instant gasket isn't a bad thing - you use it to hold the rubber in place when you invert the cover to fit - especially important round the 'mickey mouse ear' gaskets round the plug holes as many leaks occur this way when gaskets displaced - you can't see if they've moved till the oil drips out by the exhaust!
  5. It's actually more, as it should be measured with centreline to centreline not at top edge as shown - but good that it will be better rather than worse!
  6. Yes I understand the boost reference thing but just adding an external regulator wouldn't achieve anything! You'll have to gut the pump of its integrated regulator and re-integrate the filters etc. They are complex pieces of packaging. If you are cutting a hole in the tank anyway i'd just use a std external pump but fitted internally, flow & returns and wiring pass through - sealing is the biggest problem though.
  7. The regulators are generally built into the in-tank pump assembly!
  8. But the wheel spins three revolutions one way and will spin 3 back the other way - so it can't be a caliper / sprocket bolt! The weird thing is if the back wheel spins 3 turns then locks this would spin the output shaft approx 9 times in neutral ! Sounds like something is broken in the box - here endeth my knowledge of gearbox inner workings LOL!
  9. Why - Please explain? As the whole point of an in-tank pump is it doesn't need a return?
  10. Yeah sounds like its FUBAR'd ! _ Try this....... https://www.Eblag.co.uk/i/143218994785?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=143218994785&targetid=876284534867&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006733&poi=&campaignid=9446077381&mkgroupid=98366966800&rlsatarget=pla-876284534867&abcId=1139356&merchantid=7328234&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6uL4qJP-6AIVmK3tCh255Q1FEAQYBSABEgLur_D_BwE Assuming the thread IS 1/8 NPT ! ! !
  11. SMIDSY accident waiting in the wings!
  12. Don't 750's have 6 speed boxes anyway - obviously not close ratio though? As there were lots of 750 race bike classes, I would have thought suzuki kit gearboxes would be available and cheaper second hand?
  13. 4 out of CDI - Orange / white = 12v + (single wire splits in loom to both coils), Black / white = ground / earth to frame / chassis, Black / yellow = Coil 2/3 & White = Coil 1/4. 5 out of pick-up case - Blue + Yellow and Green + Black are pick-up signals (two pick-ups) and Green/yellow? = Oil pressure switch signal to dash. This is for Slabby motors, Slingshot motors are similar except one pick-up is deleted so no Green + Black wires present.
  14. They are usually fairly indestructible - are you sure its 'goosed'? I think the thread is something like 1/8" NPT so any water / oil temp sender of that size should work although matching the resistances could be hit or miss? Have you tested the gauge as that is more likely to fail?
  15. Interesting picture - shows RH handle bar but reversed ! ! ! The front brake switch is a black rectangular plastic 'box' with rounded ends held to lever bracket with two screws - it has a little slide that slots into the lever. As lever moves the slide makes / connects contacts within the switch. It should have either two contacts at one end or a couple of wires, sheathed in plastic with bullet connectors on the ends. What main light switch is fitted? Is it off - side - main or off - main? Obviously if the latter the main light will switch on and that will be dip, The high beam switch should cut the dip when you select high beam. For Parking light a better term would be 'Stand' - if your bike does have a switch on the side stand, it is a safety device that cuts the engine if you select a gear with stand down - can be a PITA so most people bypass them!
  16. Wouldn't it be best to ask Nova? As far as i'm aware the 'M' GSXR 11 box is swappable with a GSF, but don't know for a fact!
  17. Have you got a leak ? Never seen anything drink that fast standing still
  18. Whilst many turbobikes have been built around GS1000 / GS1100 / GS1150 (or GSX1100 / GSX1100EFE) whilst strong, their press together cranks are their weakness and require rebuilding, welding new bearings for safety as even low boost can move them. Also there is the oil supply issue which, whilst can be improved with 750 pump gears, it doesn't provide excess pressure which would be an advantage. A slightly reworked GSXR 1100 or GSF 1200 makes a good base for boost, easily safe to 250hp in stock'ish form - forged pistons are a good upgrade whatever boost you plan, rods if you want to go better than 250+hp and personally I'd choose EFI for simplicity of plumbing and control potential - its nearly as cheap as a decent rack of new carbs!
  19. Search me ! I don't run an airbox!
  20. Sounds about right although the Red ones aren't 'overflows' they vent the float bowls or no fuel would flow! If they were overflows, the way they are routed, neat fuel would be pouring down the bores before any dripped out of the pipe ends! They normally connect to the airbox!
  21. Gasgacinch for both - copper head and aluminium spacer base, worked fine for me!
  22. Try coming up with another shape that has 4 outlets in a line one side and 1 inlet the other (often not in line) is compact and easy to weld or cast? I've seen tube plenums but cutting radiuses and bevels is time consuming and never perform significantly better so why bother? I guess you could try 3D printing one - how it would withstand heat and pressure could be an issue?
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