Gixer1460

Pins are just not a problem until you reach REALLY high loads ie. 40+psi boost, excessive Nitrous or Nitro fuels - be more concerned about the pistons and rods and the oil system to keep THEM alive!

Stock or whatever comes with the aftermarket piston you use. At that output you won't be stressing the pins!

1 - doesn't a 2mm gasket just put you back to regular compression? 2 - No reason to run much bigger than stock Blandit in either case. 3 - You could provided they are going into fresh bored barrels - if not - replace 4 - The stock ignition advance is ok for off and low boost applications 6-7psi But what you need is a way of retarding it at higher figures, that means smarter ignition system. Could slot the timing plate but that just compromises the timing EVERYWHERE! 5 - Oh Dear ! That rarely works or results in a successful outcome. From past experience - set your budget ......... and double it!

Don't know about the CB13 but Bandit being GSXR based will. Going the other way ie. GSX on to GSXR won't usually! 4-1 bandit exhausts can be ugly suckers though, low hanging and lop sided.

A $9000 Ward Vortex II cylinder head (15 years ago) just to lose 8v's - sounds extreme LOL!

And a source of 100+ octane fuel LOL!

Yeah Yeah - whatever!

Or, as no one else has said it, gearbox output shaft seal !

I am (to save the extra aggro) but stud holes opened up a little to reduce the restriction whilst using HD studs.

Not a very good picture but this was created for my turbo 1460, and it does still get hot but not ridiculous!

Wow - seems my 1186 motor making 144hp wasn't too bad! M head with only port clean up, 36mm CV's, Dynojetted, std cams, Dyna 2000 and a 4-2-1 one off pipe set and V&H Supersport can.

They are really only meant for 1/4 mile use - most won't even get ridden down to the start line or back from the top end due to heat build up! Bimbling around - even slowly off boost - builds heat where it can't be got rid of. IMO - leave solid dry blocks to dragstrip use only!

Result !

Fairly unlikely! If crank has roller bearings it has low pressure / high flow oil system so the pressure switch triggers with just about 1psi pressure whereas a shell bearing crank - 750ET, GSXR or most cars will run with 30+psi pressure but light is triggered as low as 5psi. As the switches do nothing but turn off a light, alternative switches will work but fittings are particular to the oil system!

If you take the stock hoses to a hydraulics place - Pirtek for example - they could make up complete new hoses, they will look 'industrial' but should be cheap enough!

Good pictures but fairly extreme for 'home porting'. All depends on use, ie. the above good for competition but epoxy work and shortened guides IMO really not good idea for a road bike long term. I've cleaned up a few heads - car and bike, and can't give conclusive improvement results as this work was usually done with other improvements not independently! Only advice i'd offer is don't go mad removing metal, just clean off flash and mold lines, blend manifolds / gaskets / ports to each other, semi rough grind finish to inlet port - exhaust can be more polished, watch out for the valve seats as easy to 'kiss' with the stone then they'll need cutting !

You are overthinking this - 520 = sufficiently strong, 530/532 = more than adequately strong, 630 = bridge building type over engineered for low powered 80's 'superbikes'!

Don't really keep note of miles or age - just change when required. I guess using all the power all the time, chain life could be measured in days not years LOL! I think i've got a DID X ring chain at the moment but that's fairly low miles.

As a supplier they have to be conservative in their recommendations - plenty on here use 520 chain on 130+hp bikes and I have a 530 chain with 370hp - I just have to change it a bit more frequently LOL!

I don't know your particular situation but its a bit unfair to blame the piston supplier when its generally agreed that the barrels are bored / honed to size of the pistons not expect the pistons to just 'fit' your holes unless its OEM.

Unfortunately true - check out vapour blasting definition . . . . . it's using abrasive media in a fluid as opposed to air with traditional blasting. Soda is used with air and as it is water soluble it can't be used in a vapour process! You can use lighter / softer medium with vapour that can clean softer metals, even painted fabrics, but it is still abrasive or it wouldn't clean and IT needs cleaning out, hence the advantages of ultrasonic fizzy water. Any abrasive doesn't distinguish between dirty metal or clean metal and if hard enough it won't just remove dirt!

Agreed - but seriously, use of ANY abrasive media inside a carb is mad! Abrasives make small holes bigger so best avoided - non destructive ultrasonic's is the safest way IMO!

That'll be alcohol LOL!

Yeah - not a particularly great idea!

Sort of limits your options then to wherever the wires will reach - Its a lot easier if you extend the wires - not particularly the big battery ones just the smaller gauge ones! Mine always live close to that battery wherever that happens to be!