Gixer1460

EBC plates can be very 'hit or miss' - some sets work ok others slip / grab / stick / overheat! Only used them once myself in a race bike - didn't last the meeting so never used them again - always OEM even in stupidly powerful turbo bike! It's not just me either - lots have had problems with non OEM clutches.

So it's dragging when it gets hot ie. you still get 'drive' with lever back to the bars? It's either adjustment, non OEM plates or notchy basket / hub. Oil could be a factor but that usually promotes slip not drag.

A plain shaft in a plain bored hole should have NO resistance to rotation unless connected to something or friction from grease - otherwise suspect a bent shaft or distorted hole! Common cause of bent shift shafts - crashes! If the lever got bent enough to need straightening or replacement, a lot of that force also went into the shift shaft!

Yeah - any work by BJ means something to us oldies LOL! His website used to have details how to bronze skull a head for TF racing - it was a work of art considering it was done in the shed at the bottom of his garden! I think there was an old skool fix for damaged cam bearings - you line bore them oversize to take shell bearings from a Kawa - never seen it done, just heard about it.

Anything with shell bearings will be line bored to form a matched set otherwise just a couple of thou mismatch will bind up the crank!

I'm puzzled as 'every' clutch i've ever used, the lever comes back to the bars when operated - that is the point of maximum dis-engagement ? Regarding the things you've changed - clutch plates ....... aftermarket or OEM?, Oil cooler no bad thing if used in 'stop / start' traffic!, Oil viscosity used 10w/40 would be correct and either Mineral or Semi Synth - NEVER Fully Synth in older engines!

'Gives up' - how? Slips, grabs, stops working ? Any clutch, on any bike, of any power should cope with a few minutes of stop / start traffic (race bike / drag bike clutches excepted!)

Try and do one side at a time - put rag over the shift drum to catch anything / keep anything out of the crankcase / sump (cos you just know that's where they are going to end up - sod's law and all that!) Not difficult job - just take time and reference the manual!

Does the starter clutch spin freely one way and not the other? Best take the starter clutch off as that is potentially where the problem is - although that wouldn't explain why battery is getting hot unless its internally shorting ! ! !

The GSXR has a better basket - doesn't groove as bad as aluminium! The lock-up design is piss easy and would be a few minutes (ok about an hour) on a CNC the L shaped arms in steel is the hardest bit!

You've got earthing problems - everything is trying to earth itself via other bulbs and not the ground / frame connections - look for corroded connectors and broken wires!

There are springs inside the two rectangular pieces / pawls, to push them out and engage with the shift the drum & move it around. Like any spring they get tired and get a set - maybe you need new springs?

You can add super heavy springs and end up with a really heavy clutch that still slips or use something that works - the lock-up. Turbo's make a lot of torque low down and just springs don't cut it! By tour name I assume the base is a Bandit 1200? The clutch on them isn't the best - certainly the lego basket, a swap to a GSXR all steel one maybe a good upgrade.

Does this happen when engine is running and / or out on the road? It is likely the gearbox might act differently when under load and you are using the clutch?

Whilst a Dyna 'S' is a good upgrade on this model you need to fit additional items to get a satisfactory outcome! As std. this bike is all electronic ignition and if fitted with a Dyna S it would require sourcing and fitting a mechanical advancer unit from an earlier 750 ( 1981 for example ) and also that models timing / pick up cover as the ATU adds about 1/2" in depth. With all the extra stuff, you may as well buy a Dyna 2000 - easier to fit and has tuning potential if required. Other electronic ignitions are available - but i've only used Dyna so that's what I recommend.

In answer to pipe routing Q - I would have single pipe from tap to tee (positioned over fuel inlet to #1 & #2 carbs) straight 100mm ? pipe straight down with longer pipe to #3 & #4 off the other tee outlet. This allows a little bit of tank lift but no excess - if you want excess then put the tee over 3&4 with longer loop back to tap.

Duff Reg / Rectifier - change it if planning a road trip - under-volting a battery is as bad as over-volts!

I can't remember what I had for breakfast yesterday so no I can't even remember what the link led to!

They do not.

They are mechanically 'noisy' - part of their charm ! But at that mileage the cam chain could be getting towards its EOL but possibly the cam chain tensioner spring is going / has gone slack and not applying correct tension - I'd check that first as relatively easy. Cam chains can be done insitu or without splitting the cases - done it myself with a 1327 engine but strip down is the correct 'by the book' method.

Virtually no one does it that way! If you do, you are married to the minimum 3" over length. The more usual way iscut the adjuster off and make a new over length one, spigotted into the extg. box section - other advantage only one weld!

Another Happy customer - Keep the receipt / invoice safe as the needles will wear eventually and Proof of Purchase is always useful to claim new parts under Lifetime Warranty!

Apologies - Brain Fart ! Completely missed the 'EFE' bit and assumed 1100 oil cooled ! ! ! Quite right the aircooled engine doesn't have them . . . . . . . . . . maybe they should LOL!

There are 6No. O rings that seal the outer 4 studs and 2No at the front - did you replace these? As oil will be under pressure in these stud cavities so prime leak source.

This gives all the secrets away - If only this had been around back in the day!