Gixer1460

All this discussed multiple times - use search - read the stuff - then ask your questions ! ! ! Yes i'm a miserable old fucker thats fed up to the back teeth sitting indoors not being able to do anything constructive except read the same questions written by newbies who want instant gratification without doing any research - how do you think people did it 20-25 years ago before the internet? We read books / magazines and just built stuff - sometimes badly and sometimes spectacularly good. The info is out there - just do the research! Rant Over! ps. Use the Blandit engine - life is hard enough, don't make it worse using a GS!

That sequence always seemed odd to me! My sequence (using those numbers) would be, 1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, 6, 5, 12, 9, 11 & 10. Got nothing against the Suzuki sequence just doesn't seem logical?

I've used std retainers with heavier springs in turbo engines without drama but they aren't high reving. The optional Ti retainers are primarily used in high rpm NA engines where the lightness reduces the chances of valve float IMO. If you are using std. retainers with bigger cams, i'd definitely keep the rpm's under control.

As the OP is a Yankee, it is likely to be '93 so it is neither air cooled nor a Katana !

You guys don't get 'tongue in cheek' comments do you!

Could be if that seat support gives way! LOL!

There was a UK ProMod / Funnybike with a 1800 / 1850 GSX Nitrous set-up - very, VERY spendy when it went wrong - 90+mm pistons I believe?

Yeah - there you go! You lost me at 'First' !

Ah yes - Sorry I didn't consider the old style outputs from the Motec as everything now outputs a ground signal. If I was smarter i'm sure a simple circuit could be designed / constructed to do the flip-flop change. Query do you think a solid state relay could be used to do the change over ? ? ?

Easy - mine came with a connector but sure they are available separately - its 7 pins, but you only use 5 ! - see the picture!

The engine doesn't care what ohmage the coils are but your std ignition drivers might due to the current they are asked to shift! Best to use a Dyna2000 or save some money and use a two channel ignition amp like a Bosch 0227 100 200 - https://www.Eblag.co.uk/i/293206194762?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=293206194762&targetid=877514743599&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045747&poi=&campaignid=9437741753&mkgroupid=97371651778&rlsatarget=pla-877514743599&abcId=1140496&merchantid=189184776&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgo-5vprK6AIViLHtCh145QwREAQYAiABEgLssPD_BwE I used one of these with green coils on the turbo only as the Motec didn't have onboard ign. drivers. This goes between std. ign box and the coils.

Any electrical switch / device - switch on = 1, switch off = 0 and can't get anymore digital / binary than that! All FI before that was mechanical. ps - don't believe all you read LOL!

So the Kawa Z1000H, 'Onda CX650 and the Yam 650 turbo as well I think, don't count - all about the same time?

Different question - squish could be fine but still get piston to valve contact - depends on cut outs and valve timing. Plasticine and dry build best way forward.

Whilst I do not agree with it - postage / delivery is a service and therefore vat is due. The fact that the service is paid for in a different country means VAT should not be levied - but try and explain that to HMRC, fat chance!

Be cautious just using gasket to determine squish. An uncompressed gasket maybe 1mm? but when compressed 0.5mm? but recommended safe squish is about 1mm (allows for rod stretch / avoidance of pre ignition) - some race engine builders go as tight as 0.5mm but really not advisable) So ideally you need the piston to be 0.5mm below deck height and allowing compressed gasket. Busa piston with dish compared to std. GSXR piston with raised crown makes big difference in CR.

You'll need a spacer as with the longer rods the pistons pop out of the barrels - though that would be obvious?

Cam cover washers are re-usable as long as the rubber moulded coating still resembles rubber and not dried out licorice! GSXR chain tensioners can back out and mayhem results - at 45k I think i'd deffo think about chain replacement and either new spring in the tensioner or replace with APE manual tensioner? Unless you've had the bike from new, you don't know the life the chain has had in regard to use or oil maintenance - err on side of caution! ps. Split cam chains are ok to use if you don't want to split the cases!

Thats the bit I don't understand? Maybe its definitions - for me, front of carb is air inlet side / back side is engine side. The vac pipe should be engine side or it won't see vacuum.

If the carbs flood on prime then they aren't shutting off on the floats - they may be clean, but if they leak, they ain't no good. I assume this is a vacuum fuel tap - one large hose is fuel delivery and the smaller one usually goes to a spigot on an inlet rubber or similar vacuum source?

If it's turning slow and the leads are getting warm and its a DOT head i'd suspect compression maybe a culprit ! Assume you are using decent size jump cables - not those pissy 'hardly fit for purpose' 10mm cables - ideally min. 25mm sq welding type cables for least resistance!

Not at all - trying to keep the gasket in place whilst inverted and squeezing it past all the obstructions is a fate worse than death as witnessed by the posts due to oil leaks and displaced gaskets . Can try grease, but it's not as sticky!

you must have that "new style" gravity defying set-up ...... I understand the solution but it does seem overly complicated! People often say the scavenge systems will suck oil from the bearings but I don't see how that is possible? The core & bearings are a sealed unit with oil in and oil out - if you suck oil out it has to be replaced via the oil in line which is pressurised to point of use and will also be acted on by vacuum from the scavenge ensuring oil is drawn into the bearings. Reinhoud's modification with an added breather just stops the vacuum so relying on only oil pressurisation for oil delivery - a moot point with roller bearing engines ! ! !

Hmmm - confusion! 'M' rubbers won't take 46mm spigots - i've made tapered adapters from 46 to 40mm to suit the rubbers! The motor was built for a turbo, lower CR, turbo cams and timing and yes it was an arm stretcher but it has no shortage of torque when used NA. - FCR's , Akro pipe & Dyna2000

I won't advise one way or the other except to say I have the big ones for a 1460 engine and using 1100 'M' rubbers when NA and 46mm Taper Throttle Bodies with EFI and turbo, Big motors have big lungs so shouldn't have to breathe through straws.