Gixer1460

Strangest MLS gasket i've seen - normally coated with something and layers riveted / tied together.

The gasket on the right is either a 'weirdly' coloured copper gasket in which case it'll need the barrels machining for wire rings or its a base / barrel spacer? The top right larger hole (stud hole) looks like it should take a locator ferrule?

If this is the same bike ? ? ? Then it looks like a simple oil seal but also you seem to be maybe missing the retainer plate hence why excess oil forced it out?

If you can find a decent parts fiche ( the ones on Alpha Sports are bad for this) - each stud is identified length and position. Just to muddy the waters - when changing to HD studs - they are one length, all 176mm ! Makes things considerably easier !

Sounds like you need a tap repair kit as well as smokey and petrol smell may indicate fuel in the oil / crankcase - have a sniff in the filler hole?

Being a pedant ! ! ! Only the outer is a basket - the inner piece is a hub ! LOL! Sounds like you have one of those wanky Blandit type baskets - Ali with steel band, wear prone and weaker if subjected to significant power increase.

Would deffo benefit from use of banjo's - size the banjo bolts same as the threaded adapter into the sump - its M14 or M16 ? ? ?

Insitu. If in the UK - Robinsons Foundry - OSS gets a discount if you quote OSS membership when ordering!

RTV - sparingly!

Unless the engine tune warrants a better ignition - then no!

Have a guess - clue's in the name! How do you fill empty float bowls when you have a vacuum tap ?

Likely culprit? - excessive water i'd say! All things electrical - coils, leads, plugs, CDI all suspects. Spray everything with WD40 - its actual real purpose - water dispersant and try tomorrow!

And 'prime' really isn't designed for running under load especially with a turbo!

FFS! - why would a FUEL TANK breather be situated in the top of the engine!

Wash them in salty water, let them corrode white, the clear coat ! LOL!

But as soon as boost builds there won't be vacuum - anywhere - so the tap will shut off flow and carbs will starve! In a turbo install you have to use either a manual tap or electric one.

That 14:1 figure is not far off stoichiometric ratio @14.7 which although ok for cruise mode is pretty lean on power / under load - I'd err towards 13.6 - 13.2:1 for max power / safety!

Vacuum from carbs for what? Boosted applications offer low vacuum signal when 'off' boost - the system reverting to pressurised when 'on' boost. Your FPR (hopefully a boost referenced one) will definitely use that connection. Most people take boost reference signal from plenum or pitot tube to simplify the plumbing!

You think? Sweeps on how many break - i'll go 3No.

Get a standalone quickshifter - the Dyna 2000 kill is active while the lever microswitch is tripped and until it returns to its resting position so not very quick!

You may have dodged a bullet then! Good oil? Need an oil change? Sure the rattle wasn't caused by detonation due to heat?

No, more correct to say - 'like a knackered tap with a fubar'd washer - it drips when off.' A good tap with a good seal don't drip - eg. no Pingle i've had / used has ever dripped . . . . . . . . leaked at the tank joint - yes, dripped no! LOL!

If the oil is overheated (not good) then lubrication is lost and metal to metal contact is likely! Top ends are susceptible as farthest from pump and hottest part of engine. I'd seriously have a look under the rocker cover before using it again - a rattle is never a good noise!

Nothing wrong with a strong bottom end - ooooh er matron! If you can afford to do the work - it's likely to never need to be touched again whatever tune / setup is thrown at it.

I guess slightly different tolerance / clearance in BE bearings will produce that effect - on way up both bearings are loaded so will top out at same time, then through the dwell period the pins move to opposite side of the bearing and it one has , say, +1 - 2 thou difference, it will move later than the other?