Gixer1460

Sorry I thought you were looking to get 'Bates' shell / bodies? I've just measured my 5" Genuine Bates lenses and some 5 3/4" lenses in my car are there is a difference in diameters so if a GSXR lense fits a Bates shell it may be 'loose as a cock in a sock' with a 5 3/4" sized shell ? Worst case - just buy 5 3/4" lights and shells and no worries?

Link pls - i'd like to see what's is available as I wasn't aware of anything?

Could go for a matt / flat black anodised finish if following the 'black box' theory - probably worth 2/10ths of FA difference LOL!

Good on the 'hot' side ie. turbine and exhaust manifold to keep heat in - not so good for rejecting or emitting heat away.

Science behind the madness ! - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_body

It's clearly not a 4" light - and the 4" ones I bought only took 35/35w lights, which are ok on HD's! The 5" ones do take a H4 Halogen lamp. Not sure that other lenses fit Bates bodies (which i've never seen for sale without the lense/lamp)

The best heat dissipating colour is actually flat matt black - about one of the few things I remember from college !..................but it looks shite! And why shield the carbs when they have 160 deg C air belting through them? Stop over thinking and try washing the sleeping tabs down with alcohol - or more if you already do!

Don't place the Pitot tube in a silicone hose a) its not secure enough and b) it's a mare to make any decent seal !

Are you sure the really worn needles are OEM as they look aluminium and very Dynojet in their profile? Worn that much one would assume the emulsions are also? With a freeflow air filter it won't flow like pods but will flow enough to be classed stg 3. The 1100 DJ kit has MJ's, needles, emulsion tube, slide lift hole jets - don't know what the 750 kit has so can't compare, The DJ kits usually just work straight off and need a dyno run to check MJ is correct - at least that's what i've found!

Don't see how a 'back drive' clutch is going to solve your problem - nor would a 'lock-up' clutch ! Either could have lower spring pressure which 'could' induce slip (desirable when racing) But they both rely on smooth operation of the fibres sliding within the basket. For that cost i'd buy a H/Duty billet basket and get it hard anodised - it'd probably be cheaper? And no - GSXR steel baskets are smaller diameter than GSX backplates so won't be an easy transfer although if you come up with a fix the whole world will rejoice as it has been a problem for 40+ years!

Tomato Tomata . . . . . Let's call the whole thing off ! LOL! Back to the original Q - without the engine and more particularly the carbs in position, no one can tell you what space you have to play / build in! By their very nature a plenum needs as much volume you can build in, but if you can't get it off the carbs once its built it doesn't work. Similarly some people have tried to balance inlet air flow across all carb mouths, some haven't (me included) - whether it makes a difference (I have EFI) I can't tell but it does introduce another space requirement into the design. You'll just have to search peoples projects and see if anything grabs your fancy and or get creative with cardboard and sticky tape - actually not a bad idea!

It's weird that the vertical plugs look like they are 'designed' to be there in the chamber, only when you look at the top side do they look odd! 50mm valves - THATS BIG

And the OP didn't say it would be 3mm! You selectively omitted the word 'using' - language is such a tricky tool! And as regards 3mm material being some way inadequate - no way! Avoiding large flat plates or adding bracing and it will be perfectly adequate - don't blame the material when the design is at fault!

Just cos they haven't worked out for you doesn't mean they are bad - i've used them with nitrous and turbo to well over 2 bar boost - what does that prove? They are a re-usable gasket that needs careful use - just like building any engine.

Hopefully not in those bores LOL! Good boy - another fellow Cosworth piston user!

Not sure i've ever seen one in the UK - Dyna used to rule the roost here!

Totally off topic but your avatar is fackin' distracting - a lovely set of 'breasty dumplings' as Nursey would say!

I have to agree - the 38mm CV's as fitted to the 750's were the only carb (other than RS flatslides) fitted with the MJ access 'nut'. So unless someone has swapped the float bowls onto a rack of 36's, those must be 38's? And they are as tall as 40mm CV's which are huge!

In someone's wet dream maybe! 65 links will do the top run but sure as hell won't join the bottom! Std. length at a guess is around 108 - 112 links ....... better a bit longer than short a couple of links!

Much of a muchness really - Bandit barrels would be my preference if I was doing another - 80mm bore for 1186cc and use MTC turbo pistons 10:1 CR if low boost but crowns are thick enough to machine down to 8:1 CR for Loadsa boost!

A 'bit' of instant gasket isn't a bad thing - you use it to hold the rubber in place when you invert the cover to fit - especially important round the 'mickey mouse ear' gaskets round the plug holes as many leaks occur this way when gaskets displaced - you can't see if they've moved till the oil drips out by the exhaust!

It's actually more, as it should be measured with centreline to centreline not at top edge as shown - but good that it will be better rather than worse!

Yes I understand the boost reference thing but just adding an external regulator wouldn't achieve anything! You'll have to gut the pump of its integrated regulator and re-integrate the filters etc. They are complex pieces of packaging. If you are cutting a hole in the tank anyway i'd just use a std external pump but fitted internally, flow & returns and wiring pass through - sealing is the biggest problem though.

The regulators are generally built into the in-tank pump assembly!

But the wheel spins three revolutions one way and will spin 3 back the other way - so it can't be a caliper / sprocket bolt! The weird thing is if the back wheel spins 3 turns then locks this would spin the output shaft approx 9 times in neutral ! Sounds like something is broken in the box - here endeth my knowledge of gearbox inner workings LOL!