Gixer1460

If its bonded in, why do you want to remove it? If you want to use different leads then you'll be buying coils as well!

You seem to want to run before you can walk! We like ambition but get the basics down and working first - tearing down and building up stuff and most electrical things can be done in a shed / garage . . . . . . . boring cylinders / machine work (good quality) cannot unless you are a machinist with a fully equipped workshop !

If you do have big fat blue sparks then although timing may be incorrect, you can pretty much rule out electrics (not deffo though) and carbs are a likely candidate for being the problem. Swapping cylinders is the weirdest bit !

Coils are pretty universal. With suzuki's the orange/white is common to both and is ignition power. The other odd colours go to 1/4 and 2/3 coils - i'd cut the plugs off and re-terminate with either new plugs or insulated spade connectors. The spark leads look like they may be covered in heatshrink ? But strong possibility they will be bonded into the coil so not removable!

Did you use 'general O rings' or the specific Suzuki ones - the OEM ones tend to be different sizes to suit the application.

Eh? Alex Jones is the Doris on the 'One Show'......... mind you I wouldn't mind seeing her in a set of leathers and I might answer her questions

So we have another newbie (who also hasn't introduced himself) offering advice to someone who also hasn't introduced themselves! Is this some sort of newbie challenge to the 'way of things' as its happening with monotonous regularity just recently! BTW - we like to help, we just like to know who we are helping and there is also a search function but I suppose that requires reading up and not just being told the answer!

Stating 'feedback' is a bit non descriptive ie. WTF does it mean? Seeing as it was most likely tested on a roller brake tester the rotational speed would be so slow as to hardly feel anything - if the tester did, then I wouldn't want to rely on them! But if virtually new, why are they warped? Maybe they aren't seated correctly on the hub?

Hmmmm - I'd name and shame a 'professional' that supplied that sort of service! It really is common sense that if carbs need an ultrasonic bath clean that jets and needles need inspecting and replacing especially float valves as leaking ones can wreck an engine!

Doesn't that look better all round ! Nice work.

Me no think he gonna be back! He shud have RTFM first!

They are usually in the top case next to the stud they pass oil up - we used to tap them out and fit a grub screw to block off. Never knew the 750 EF's had external lines to the head - obviously a precursor to the head cooling set-up as on GSXR's! The GSX750 pump should be good for pressure - engine has shell bearings - but how much to restrict to the top end ? I think i'd rather flow too much than not enough - if it helps LOL!

How do you balance the carbs then - they all have a vacuum port. Any of which could be used for the tap vac!

And it is always useful to obtain and RTFM!

How did you conclude that? There is a vacuum fuel tap and he swapped the vac. hose from one carb to another - nothing to do with breathers !

I admire your enthusiasm and access to tools to create the stuff we desire but please take a step back and first learn how these assemblies work and go together, because until you know that - £450 will seem cheap in comparison (costed against time and scrapped parts) I built a whole CNC mini mill to create some parts with big ideas of what it could do in the future - so far it's only created 4 pieces, so cost per piece is about £600 whereas a machine shop could have done all 4 for about £150 !

If its in gear - you should still be able to turn the motor over. An it takes some sort of ape to muller the ign rotor hex - please don't try and turn it over using the 6mm cap screw!

Will it go forward anymore? My GSXR into a Zed frame had the lower bolt holes vertically aligned and probably still could have moved 2" forward.

Why does it matter - oil comes out, goes through cooler and goes back to engine - either side will have same effect!

EBC plates can be very 'hit or miss' - some sets work ok others slip / grab / stick / overheat! Only used them once myself in a race bike - didn't last the meeting so never used them again - always OEM even in stupidly powerful turbo bike! It's not just me either - lots have had problems with non OEM clutches.

So it's dragging when it gets hot ie. you still get 'drive' with lever back to the bars? It's either adjustment, non OEM plates or notchy basket / hub. Oil could be a factor but that usually promotes slip not drag.

A plain shaft in a plain bored hole should have NO resistance to rotation unless connected to something or friction from grease - otherwise suspect a bent shaft or distorted hole! Common cause of bent shift shafts - crashes! If the lever got bent enough to need straightening or replacement, a lot of that force also went into the shift shaft!

Yeah - any work by BJ means something to us oldies LOL! His website used to have details how to bronze skull a head for TF racing - it was a work of art considering it was done in the shed at the bottom of his garden! I think there was an old skool fix for damaged cam bearings - you line bore them oversize to take shell bearings from a Kawa - never seen it done, just heard about it.

Anything with shell bearings will be line bored to form a matched set otherwise just a couple of thou mismatch will bind up the crank!

I'm puzzled as 'every' clutch i've ever used, the lever comes back to the bars when operated - that is the point of maximum dis-engagement ? Regarding the things you've changed - clutch plates ....... aftermarket or OEM?, Oil cooler no bad thing if used in 'stop / start' traffic!, Oil viscosity used 10w/40 would be correct and either Mineral or Semi Synth - NEVER Fully Synth in older engines!