Gixer1460

Which is doubly confusing as the Euro / UK GSX1100G was oil cooled 16v! but the GS1000G - 8v wasn't LOL!

But the OP isn't ! And IMD don't do stock std. sizes - pistons or rings!

Lack of airbox won't help but your statement that it 'revs up' with the choke but has no throttle response is confusing - its one or the other? If it needs choke then its either getting too much air (no airbox?) or too lean with the jetting (no surprising with a virtual open pipe!) I've never changed a pilot in any carb - never felt it was required - emulsions, needles and mains is a different thing though - I'd say that's where yours needs adjustment. But you've proved they / and the engine works so tuning can wait till bike is rebuilt IMO!

Unless you've also measured the bores, a hone could oversize the bores to the point that new rings of whatever manufacturer won't redeem them! Rings from Suzuki for near 50 yr old bikes are getting rarer than something extinct! So, what's left is aftermarket and the major players aren't to keen on a production run of, say, 250 pieces (to make them affordable) when they may only sell 5 or 10 sets per year! Soon, maybe cheap is all you will be able to purchase! Gotta 'Risk it for a biscuit' !

Is it an early frame number? As they are on the cast sections, maybe jig fixturing for the frame welding (which looks pretty good btw)?

See that's where you 'shoot yourself in the foot'! My old Kawazuki was a brilliant bike that got loads of attention and was a hoot to own - but had a Zed frame and by your definition wasn't OSS enough. I certainly wasn't going to put Suzuki badges on it, that would have been trying to 'hide' its heritage. I didn't build it to fit into a niche box that was OSS compliant, it just so happened that it was more interesting than the basis of its parts. I hope its still around somewhere . . . . . . .

Have you never noticed the stream of liquid coming from car tailpipes after they've been sitting at a stop sign, once up to running temps it tends to stop!

LOL's - understatement of the year - so far! One common thread with all these conversions - press together cranks for good reason!

First question is . . . . .why? These aren't renowned for 'head shake' so why? And no, that redundant bracket / post isn't suitable for a 'chassis mod' application.

As is the majority of stuff sold worldwide - doesn't have to mean its bad! TV's, phones, ships take your pick and try to live your life without using Chinese products!

That's Tyne Blight - used to be a member here I think - going back a looooong way! His name pops up on Faceache now and then! He came up with a neat hydraulic clutch conversion for his EFE due in part to his disability.

Just because Allen's don't list it on the web pages, doesn't mean they won't have it - they don't list most OEM stuff as it would be massive amount of work, but they certainly do supply it as many here will attest to. Try an email and ask the question - you have nothing to lose. Have you tried Sudco in the States?

This company should be able to assist - https://www.allensperformance.co.uk/ Mention OSS and you might get a discount but not guaranteed!

Does indeed - and that would be the logical way to do it - a press together crank makes the bottom end 'easy' whilst the head gets the 'cut and shut' mods with split cams etc. Although clever and no doubt well executed, none of them address the issue that *onda designed out - hanging the rotor / alternator / ignition off the end of the crank making a wide engine even wider - the CBX was little wider than a GS1000 where it mattered! Bearing in mind how easy it is to deck GSX engine cases when racing, these must be getting close in spirited road use? Looks like an external elec. oil pump is included - not a bad idea with an AC bottom end !

Regarding costs noted above, I think sales volumes comes into the equation. China, where the majority of this stuff is made, will have a moderately large market for replacement turbo's, also selling same to most of south Asia so producing enormous volumes, cheaply pays off - you undercut the OEM market with shear volume and if it only lasts 30 - 50k miles - so what they are cheap enough to treat as a service item. The rods on the other hand are a 'niche' product - I can't imagine there are but 10 Bandits in China and globally how many are going to be needed so will be low volume but still can be done cheaper. I think personally a forged rod will be better than a cast stock rod from whoever it is sourced from - a stock cast rod has shown it is capable of living at upto 250hp level in a 'gassed up' NA engine and just shy of around 280+hp with a turbo. Most builds rarely go over these levels so i'd suggest a Maxspeeding rod would be comfortable even at a 50% increase. Rods VERY RARELY fail structurally on their own! Major cause is oil flow / bearings and then Rod Bolt failure. So, make sure about these and anything should live a long life IMHO!

You never tried Google? Next, you'll want one of us to buy them as well

Maybe not the kind of engine I'd associate with a 'chair' ! Some of the diagnosis still stands though (maybe!)

If the float bowls are not getting dynamic boost pressure the increased fuel pressure will certainly over pressure the float valves leading to flooding!

That ain't lean! I'd say it was quite rich possibly excessively! Witness the 'wetter' crown / valves and the cleaner appearance. The damage is detonation - see the spotting / pitting around the edges of the chamber on the head. Head doesn't appear to be massively skimmed but difficult to tell - what did the plug look like (if it survived)? Possibly leaky float valve & excess fuel = detonation? Piston crown looks well thin with some cracking but whether that was pre or post failure would be a guess! Sidecars are a strange breed - high rpm + high load for long periods - they usually kill gearboxes and being fully enclosed cooling is usually a big issue as cooling ducts add drag - I am assuming this is a racing sidecar?

https://www.allensperformance.co.uk/ is a usual stop for all things carb related (in the UK at least). If its the fuel carb to carb connection? Try 'Fuel transfer tube O rings / seals' ? Or here - https://www.suzukiparts.co.uk/shop/online-store/suzuki-parts-finder/gsf-bandit/gsf1200/gsf1200t-y-1996-2000-mk1-naked-and-faired.htm?vehicle_id=17#!gsf1200tycarbfittings where they are just called a 'seal' ! But thick end of £60 for all 6 though!

You are assuming it is a DJ or JetPro etc 'performance' kit . . . . . . . . . it could just be a set of oem replacements ! And, although not optimal, a stg 1 (DJ for example) would work ok if OEM replacements were not available or un-economic.

That sounds like a V&H Supersport - damn good pipe IMO. I used the can, repacked with straight through & steel wool and custom 4-2-1 header - best pipe I ever had!

Er? - Its a 200cc engine - at 2.0L plenum capacity, that is 10x not 2x !

Or just use Dynojet or JetPro needles and jets . . . . . . . . they exist for this very reason.

With RS carbs its different - they are meant to be swapped around for tuning - with regular carbs the OEM has done the tuning - hours/days/months in varying conditions to get the best result for that particular application . . . . they don't want you messing with them!