Gixer1460

There can't be that much difference in frame dimensions between a EFE frame and a Blandit one, so can't see how the cooler hoses are 'too' long ? Have you actually tried std Blandit hoses or is this something the Internet has informed you of ?

Its quite simple - if you need bigger liners for the size of piston, what engine do the originally come from? IMO swapping liners just to gain an extra mm is a costly exercise - if you have to get barrels and crankcases machined for bigger dia liners you might as well go 'proper' big! Anyway the OP was asking about std. barrels and liners not mix & match!

Don't know if that is a std map or a created one - either way its terrible for both NA or Turbo! Generally all Ign maps start like that one, rise to a peak in the mid range, then drop down to 30 - 38 deg range thereafter. For instance - why would engine require 55 degrees of ign. @ 14k rpm with zero throttle? It would never happen in reality so why map for it? The map should increase in the mid range / cruise condition for max torque / minimal fuel consumption - anywhere above can almost flatline @ a few degrees less!

Confirmed on APE website 73mm (3mm over) = 1085cc biggest - safely - on stock liners. https://gszone.biz/pistons.html Above thread - 78.5mm is odd size - maybe used GS1100 barrels / liners?

If using a stock ecu, then the ignition could be accurate as the ecu still thinks its NA and this ignition is possible when NA . . . . . . obviously not right for a turbo'd install as its waaaaaaay to advanced for effective burn in a turbo hence low power as all the energy is gone before it hits the turbine! I have used 40 degrees @ 10lbs boost for short periods when racing without drama's so 'odd numbers' can work but i'd question the actual validity of that though! If standalone ecu - then the mapping isn't right and install needs looking at and checking!

^ is how I did mine K.I.S.S.

Just from the lack of spatter says this is quality welding, so nice to see! The headstock mod seems 'sensible' but when my Z1000 frame got used in the Kawazuki, the 1100L upside downies were almost TOO steep without any mod to frame - the difference in fork length and wheel size from 19 down to 17 was quite dramatic!

Yes - you either get a box spanner like what comes in bike tool kit or a thin wall socket or get yours in a lathe and thin it down!

search gsx/gs750 oil pump gears - btw they are not easy to find and likely to be spendy!

Got to love Chinese copyists - from above pic they seemingly had LH #1 as a pattern which got copied as #2, then they mirrored the mold to get #3 &#4 - those part numbers are backwards LOLs

Aren't those two studs open to the elements and are sealed in the head - hence the rust? Anyway, path of least resistance - oil will go down cam chain tunnel!

Other thing to consider is the oil pick up is biased towards the front so under really hard accell, the majority of oil moves rearward and the pick-up gets uncovered! Drag bikes often mod the pick-up due to this. Seeing an oil light anytime under load is never good especially with std. piss poor pressure - the gears would be a good upgrade for any hard use!

You say you've checked the pistons - but did you check the ring grooves in the pistons for depth / side groove wear? Its likely that if the carbon build up was a bad as it sounds, the wear there was being 'masked' by the carbon deposits, hence now when clean the rings fit like a 'cock in a sock'.

New paint is an unstoppable force for gravity - don't balance the tank on anything or near anything that will (not if or could) fall on it LOL!

Reassembly of an obviously worn engine never ends well. The carbon was helping the CR and ring seal. You need to check piston / bore wear and ring wear in bore - likely they will be out of spec!

Black painted crankshaft, pictured in a coal mine with no lights! - we see nuffin!

I wouldn't trust a 40+ yr old unit - new or not! They are pretty rubbish - get an Electrx one and save yourself the grief!

https://www.yss.co.th/products/9682?pType&pSubType=BIGBIKE,ATV%2FQUAD,MOTORCYCLE,SCOOTER,UTV,ATV,SPECIAL PURPOSE

Without stroke dimension its impossible to answer!

Why replace the drive - they very rarely go wrong unless mated to a wheel not designed for them! Quick test for cable and guage - use a cordless elec drill at slow speed - should show movement & / or trip numbers counting up!

Its almost impossible to 'over' tighten them as the crosshead screws will round out waaaaay before the thread cries enough! German tight is fine! If worried about leakage a thin smear of silicone will ensure a seal.

How to make friends and influence people! If you're new, you should tread on eggshells until . . . . . . whenever! - then you can start with the personal insults!

Could also try Dom Tricket @ TVR Power - he's done some nice work in the past for commercial tuners and ProStock racers!

Roger Upperton or maybe Ray / Steve Debben - but they are all cracking on so maybe taking less work on these days?

Or if it has Busa pistons (to give the 1216 capacity) that would lower the potential CR down to reasonable levels?