DAZ

Not saying it's the "right" way but if it's loose some wet and dry on a flat surface (a sheet of glass is usually flat as it's 'floated ' ) to take a thou or two off the base of the cam cap may help , if it's tight I'm not so sure, maybe a few rotations with fine valve lapping paste ? Like I say it's not right but may work in a pinch

I know that you are in South Africa, we in the UK are spoiled with the availability of used spares both here and in Europe , so hats off to you for getting it done with what you've got available ,

I've never had to do it ,but I think IF I had to try it I would fit the cam to the bare head ( so no valves to compress ) fit and torque the cam with all the caps, the fit the cam with the missing cap and torque the original caps up , make sure all is turning as it should , then fit the replacement cap after coating with engineers blue. , just snugging the cap down and then turning , remove cap to see any high spots or odd wear marks , repeat a few times creeping up on the torque spec feeling for tightness when turning the cam, stop if it doesn't feel right don't force anything , that could damage the cam bearing surface . You maybe lucky and it fit ok you may not , till you try you'll never know ,

Quick Google , 19.5mm offset came up for the gk76a 400 discs if that helps

@fatblokeonbandit a picture is worth a thousand words , those few pictures are a brilliant tutorial on how to fit an uprated oil cooler , maybe one of the moderators could consider making it a " sticky " I'm sure it would help many wether members or visitors to the site .

Yes pretty much the only option is a dot head , other big bore heads will have larger combustion chambers and drop the compression ratio

Sounds like a good idea , suppose it depends on cost of damaged donor blocks and labour Vs sourcing another good cylinder block

+1 on thinking the 1100g shaftdrive job , maybe @imagomight be able to help I recall him having one a little while ago

If the gsx750f rubbers were off a post 98 (the blobby one with a pointy tail light that resembles a baboons arse) then I believe those rubbers had The same spacing as the mk2 bandit for bsr carbs rather than bst

I've looked but can't find the emoji for jaw hitting the floor you sir are a fucking legend !!

My thoughts are how much power do you ultimately want ? A well set up 1216 with ported head, gsxr/kent cams, a decent exhaust and 36mm cv carbs usually claims 145 -160bhp depending on the owner/dyno and that seems to be the sweet spot as regards £/bhp , bigger carbs cams and valves will no doubt get more peak power but probably at a loss of tractability in comparison to the more street orientated combination , peak numbers are ok but I feel average hp over the rev range is more important , a simple case back when the b12 was launched they claimed 100bhp as standard , so was a cbr600 which was nicer to ride ? Obviously the b12 not just because it wasn't a horrible Gurls blouse but because it made more torque or mathematically more average hp

I believe @Oilyspanner runs them on his 1216 so maybe worth a chat with him

By a quick check on an online parts supplier such as cmsnl suzuki would show you an exploded diagram and give you the parts numbers to check if you have all the relevant pieces as well as then being able to cross reference the part number to other models it may be used on .....

Thanks for this pic , makes it clears as day not being clued up on the watercooled bikes I thought they possibly shared the cooling duties with extra rad capacity or something - similar to how some cars have the transmission cooler integrated into the radiator

Yes , unless they're chunky internally threaded bosses , hard to tell on phone screen , in which case crack on and ignore my ignorance