Gixer1460

Broken cable.

A picture of a mythical object LOL! If my counting teeth is about right, I get 39 / 27 ratio ? against a 750 ratio of 38 / 29. If so, the oil pump should spin about 10% faster? Will it make 10% more pressure ? 10% more of knob all is still knob all LOL!

Not quite true - cams are all plain bearings and are furthest away from pump plus those running turbo's which have plain bearings need approx 25-30psi minimum for any sort of life! We've all seen cam bearings wiped out through low / no oil! Its one of the reasons drag racers used to block off oil feed to gearbox, just to get that little bit more to the engine - gearbox happy with splash lubrication.

Looks like a 'Highpower' kit - I think they are still trading, Doncaster way I believe? . . . . . https://noswizard.com/contacts

Really, the 'prime' position isn't meant for running the engine although people do - its purpose / action is, to lift the diaphragm marginally to fill the float bowls on empty carbs - after a rebuild or after running out of fuel. The gap isn't designed for long term, full power fuel flow! Adding a fuel pump would mask a problem, not improve it as the pump will try to draw more fuel than the tap can deliver in 'prime' position. A Pingle tap (for instance) has a single in-tank delivery pipe with a 6mm bore - doesn't make any difference if tap has 1, 2 or 3 outlets - it has one 6mm bore pipe from tank . . . . and that is enough for over 350+ turbo EFI hp ! The float valves in the carbs, at the needle valve, have a 1.5mm ? opening which across 4 carbs = 28.26 sq mm (approx) and a Pingle has a pipe bore area of 113.04 sq mm. Your 10mm tank outlet has an area of 314 sq mm. So, the tank outlet is 11 times larger than the carbs can utilise, but its size reduces the potential flow restriction and increasing the pressure seen at the float jets - its a miniscule increase but maybe enough to tip over the edge?

Web cams are likely ground on fresh cast billets, Kents more than likely regrinds on old cams would explain cost difference. I'm guessing the specs are noting different things as you suspect - Web = installed valve lift, Kent = measured lobe ht. from base circle ?

If the top end is off then sploshing diesel over crank and around the cases with either drain plug out or (for more mess) with sump pan off - will get it squeeky clean and won't hurt anything - all obviously AFTER you've dropped the oil and filter!

Seems to spin over waaaaay to fast to me? If the float was upside down you'd never have got the cover back on ! ! ! A leak down test would be more diagnostic to check valves and piston rings and general wear in the top end. Have the valve been gaped correctly? Is it on points? If so, are they gapped correctly? Leaking carbs is never good especially after a rebuild !

I'd like to see some of these 'mythical' higher ratio gears? Its just that for the 40 odd years that drag racers have been abusing these engines with just about every modification anyone could think of, no one nor none of the specialist aftermarket vendors bothered with having hi ratio gears made . . . . . Even Chris Hannam, owner of Cannon Engineering, who were gear cutters to industry and beyond, never considered making them and cornering the global market!

Too many variables to give accurate answer - diameter of twist grip cable barrel, length of throttle arm or throttle cable barrel - all will give different pull lengths!

^ ^ ^ ain't no good with a turbo / forced induction though! The one used is correct and designed for blown applications!

You can pass 500cfm through a 100mm pipe or a 50mm pipe - the only difference is initial pressure and what the end pressure is in the plenum

I've never needed to bend a frame mounting to fit an engine to anything - unless they are bespoke mounts to take a different engine, there is generally wiggle / spacer room between cases and frame mounts! With all of the 'dubious' history your frame seems to have, i'd suggest it didn't originally come with an engine that physically big!

As Arttu says it really is a minimal difference - 0.1bar / 1.5psi at max airflow (in his 12k example). I use 50mm (nominal) up pipe and have a IC that I understand has an approx pressure drop across the core of about 1-2psi, so for me, the saving of maybe 0.5psi using a bigger pipe is insignificant in the grand scheme of things. I'd actually prefer a 20 - 30 deg greater temp drop across the intercooler but that would induce a greater pressure drop . . . . . . nothing come free!

Can you actually see it without removing the basket?

Yeah, Wurth is the 'go to' set for Timeserts! Shame they don't include a drill as well so you'll need a good sharp 12mm HSS drill as well.

Most 7" / 175mm round headlamps and shells will swap between makes / models of bikes - as long as you have side mounts present and enough rearward space, they'll generally all fit. If you are swapping from a 'normal' bulb to Halogen it would be wise to add relays in the power lines due to increased demand.

Sounds about right without digging it out.

I got an Emtes one from NLR ages ago - needed an adult with welding skills to adapt a Ign cover, btw its tiny - thats an M10 screw that got adapted with a hex to drive off the ign. rotor bolt & oil fitting is -8!

Stock tap is probably a good shout - if this is a Blandit then it only had to supply 120hp, GSXR's maybe about 180hp ! A Pingel will feed at least 370hp as i've done it. Venting possible but again std GSXR tank had no problems with previous noted supply. At 6000 you shouldn't be draining float bowls - what pump are you using? Dead head fuel or with return line? Pre or post carbs FPR position?

Potential differences between GSXR, F touring and G shafties

If thats your intention then use a GS1150 / EFE crank and rods - try and find a good one, save on pulling it apart, if the bearings are good just weld up the pins fully and be done with it! Spending £1500+ on a crank for sub 200hp doesn't make sense . . . . . . . . unless you get boost addicted ! ! ! As Clive says its usually detonation that kills engines, that or oil problems. Start fat on fuel and safe on ignition and use a dyno to creep up on optimal but don't try for a 'little bit more' - you have been warned!

First question surely is 'what are you looking to get out of it? As this could / can determine what specification will suit. A suck thro aircooled with an HSR / S&S and knee burning dump pipe is about as oldskool as it gets and will do low to mid 200's with a reasonable amount of work (which would be required for a 'good' N/A engine anyway) But as to your questions - I didn't know any other gears other than the 750 ones were available? It used to be them or stock - no options!. A freshened and preped crank will NEVER be cheap - this is where the oil boilers score! A/C rods, given the choice use 493 marked rods - known as Katana rods originally and used in many racing engines - again the oil boilers get a break as cheap std rods can take substantial hp increases. BTW I have BIG Cosworth pistons in my 1460 engine - not a 'usual choice' but they do the job.

How do you 'know' that they are low comp? They don't look to have a complete dish or is that raised portion just a photo artifact? It wouldn't need much of a thicker head gasket to make the 10.25's work in a blown application as they'd be classed as low comp for a NA build.