Gixer1460

'Adapter rings' ? ? ? A picture would help. Surely you don't adapt a filter to match a pipe - you adapt the carb with DJ kit to work with pipe and filter. Generally for a pipe and K&N filter, a DJ stage 3 would be good as the filter airflow is not massively less than using twin pods.

Have to agree with that statement - appears only inner third is 'shiny' and being used - outer 2/3rds is dull and un-used? What does the other / reverse side of disc look like as possibly caliper isn't square to disc?

I was at 370hp using 30/26 valves but engine is 1460cc and waaaaay less boost than that. EFI'd and intercooled. I don't think those numbers are practical for a 'street bike' ie. using unleaded petrol ! If Busa's can top 500hp with 1300cc and unleaded i'd spec one of those turbo's - a GT30/71 or similar should work but unless you go large on the capacity, I think you'll struggle!

If you have a multimeter its a 5 minute DIY test. put leads across battery at idle and at above 3500rpm on 20v DC scale - should show 12.3-12.7v at idle and over 14.0v but lower than 14.7v at higher rpm. That'll show if regulator is doing its thing. Then swap the multimeter to read 100v AC scale and find 3No. yellow wires out of alt. - call them A, B & C. Apply leads to A&B, then B&C and then C&A - should see 60-80v AC on each if alt. is working (its 3 phase AC output) If yours doesn't have 3 yellow wires look for green/white, white/blue and yellow - these are the same as the yellows and should have same results. Early Suzuki electrics are pants and i'd almost guarantee it'll be the RR is fubar'd. Search for RR upgrade threads on OSS!

Not entirely! The water-cooling was essentially a reliability thing with cars to protect the plastic bearing cages from getting cooked after a hot shut-down as no one can be bothered to idle an engine for 30 seconds! If no water, then a longer cool down is more important

What was right and what was not ? There seemed to be a LOT of conflicting advice also depending on where in the world it was coming from! I guess it will always be a problem with a 'global reach' forum - so many markets, so many permutations!

Did it have pods or are these a new addition? I'll assume the latter - if so, carbs particularly CV types, don't like to play with pods without a fair bit of work - they ain't plug and play! If all he did was what you said and bike runs bad with std airbox and STANDARD jetting then something else is going on! Possibly he screwed up the valve clearances ? Did the bike have points or electronic ignition with ATU? Has the ATU not been used?

GSXR 1100 1989 AND 1990!

Choke isn't 'All or nothing' ! Its supposed to be modulated to keep rpm around or just slightly above running rpm - its an enrichment device to aid cold starting as fuel doesn't atomise as well in a cold induction system!

Cheap ! Normally Loadsa money!

1100M 40mm carbs are renowned to be an absolute bitch to set-up in anything other than absolute bone stock installs! I've done a few 1100 kits with 36mm carbs - different filters (generally K&N pods though) and pipes or full systems and they are 'plug & play' in my experience - follow the instructions and at most they've needed a two point MJ change - never ever changed an idle jet. Worst thing is the Titanium needles wearing out but lifetime guarantee so . . . . .

Did you read anything posted above? We don't tend to like repeating stuff endlessly!

Probably easier and damn sight cheaper to use a Blandit cable - should be plenty long enough, or any similar sport / touring type bike. Most of Suzuki connections are the same across multiple models.

Reseller or someone being a bit naughty?

But . . . . . if the shaft is worn, the new seal may also leak!

Someone rewired it and connected both coils instead of just single tach source? Other than that its FUBAR'd

And was roller bearing if I'm not mistaken ?

Air cooled = roller bearing* / Oil cooled = Plain bearing* * - the GSX 750 was the exception as it was air cooled but had plain bearings (1980 - 1984 I think) then it became oil cooled.

The GSX1100G was a derivative of the GSXR range of engines - all with plain shell bearings and massively over spec'd oil pumps.

You've answered your own question - yes, obviously a cooler can be fitted to this bike LOL! From the video its not altogether clear where the cooler lines go to on the engine but I suspect that the oil filter cover has been replaced with one from an 1100 EFE (GS1150) as they had a cooler as standard and that is where the hoses connected BUT the 750 uses plain bearings and the oil system may be completely different to the 1100's which have roller bearings, so you'll have to do more checking! edit - I just checked my GSX750 manual and unfortunately it isn't clear if the correct oil galleries exist to and from the above cover!

You are assuming worst case scenario! The rings could be fine and you may have defective valves or valve seats! A comp test just tells you that but not the where or why - a leak down test is a better test to determine those questions. As regards the 850 conversion - i've no experience other than reading what others have done - you 'may' have to open up the crankcases to take the larger dia barrels? or they could be the same 750 / 850 OD's ? You could use the 750 carbs with some tuning, they may be down at the top end but the bottom end would be much improved. I think i'd do some more investigation before shelling out the coin!

The suspicion that you are a bot is 'your' video has f**k all to do with camshaft identification - its a human thing that AI is crap at LOL!

Sure its not the drive chain - similar noise makes you think its engine! 41k isn't stellar mileage for a cam chain but could be slack. The stock tensioner spring may be getting slack - sometimes the internal spring is available @ not a lot of money! Alternatively a manual tensioner is a possibility! Finding guides will be an issue, aftermarket may be available ? A rivet link chain is fine to use PROVIDING its installed correctly and usually needs two pairs of hands!

Hi Bot ! Not with that number - No.

So, you are using the 'tiny' oil cooler from a 60hp? 650 single to cool an 1100cc 4 cylinder with at least twice the hp and heat generation potential - what do you think is going to go wrong with that ? Just because it fits, doesn't mean it should be used!