Gixer1460

If playing with carbs its likely the tank is off so looking down the wells should be easy enough + dark enough to see flame colour better? IMO the only engine they made sense with, was the original Mini's - plugs at front, directly behind the bonnet!

Wouldn't that give a lean miss? The pitot should always be a better choice as it acts faster to pressure change - that's its whole reason! I've no axe to grind here - carbs are hard enough without having to contend with pressurised air AND fuel . . . . . . . I prefer EFI!

You've been around for a few months / years / decades, so I can't believe you've never heard of or about the Colourtune device! Its from the era before EFI when carbs were fitted to everything - only good for idle tuning but perfect visual feedback immediately on adjustment.

I always though of 'power jets' being a main jet supplement ie. extra to & independent of, the MJ and non-metered at WOT use! The needle and emulsion tube are usually the only thing that regulates 'mid range' running with actual fuel flow through regulated by the MJ

Its usually the biggest opening, and for pressure relief and easier breathing - bigger is better!

Seems too repeatable / exact to be fuel related as load will vary due to rpm / gearing which determines fuel flow? I'd still plump for something electrical - but don't know what as all the usual suspects have been replaced - assuming they've been sourced from 'normally running bikes' to eliminate a 'like for like' problem swap?

You are gonna be in trouble - there is no such thing as a 600 Katana! RTFR's

Google is your friend (sometimes) - and from the horses mouth! - https://www.mtceng.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/piston_kit_installation.pdf

Whole range AFR can't be fixed by changing the MJ alone! Both the pilots and the needles will need attention IMO. re the plumbing, I'd have 1 tee off the main line then split that with another tee to feed each pair of carbs - seems would be more equalised to me?

Not really helpful - which ones? Pilot? Air? Needle? Main? This is why jet kits were developed - they done the leg work so they just work more or less from the off!

Wtf is a 'space cylinder' ? If you've rebuilt the slave and replaced the line, I'd say you've still got air in there! If the slave piston is pushed all the way in, its real difficult to bleed air out and get fluid in, so its better to start with it about half in with some fluid behind it then connect to the line and master. You won't know if the clutch is dicky until the operating mechanism is working!

Really not advised unless you put a proper jet kit in them - CV carbs mostly don't like the disturbed / unrestricted airflow these give so the jet kit has to mask this and fuel around it. Personally I like Dynojet kits but others are available - and its not 'just a single jet' so DIY solutions are rarely easy / satisfactory.

Never had any dealings with the guy, nor would I ever want too, but this is symptomatic of lots of 'small business start-ups' - they are not prepared to put in the initial capital to produce product to cover overheads and sink any profit back into the business over and over until they become self sustaining - only then should the profits produce a dividend to owner as reward for the hard work / slog to get to that position. I know of one shop that does the 'Rob Peter to pay Paul' business model and has done for as long as i've known it, only difference is they don't shaft the customers and will / do deliver - eventually! Its a bloody hard world currently for the little guys but Martek or whatever they are called now aren't helping themselves (or rather they are but not in a good way!)

A lambda sensor is useful for tuning but with carbs and unless done on a Dyno you won't know where the slide is when the stumble occurs - throttle position doesn't correspond to slide position.

This would be my suggestion - batteries that go flat are either due to something being left on (unlikely as most things are ign. key switched) or something is energised via damage in the loom or in a device - a parasitic draw. But to kill a new battery overnight is a pretty big draw ie. 6Ahr battery over 12hrs is 0.5A / 500 mA draw.

No, removal of the resistor just means it won't start!

A Budweiser (or similar beer varieties) can used to be std. fitment at the Bulldog Bash - no catch can, no racing! Not that they were hard to find ! Wedged into a gap or held with a single zip tie - them were the days!

As APE is an aftermarket seller of 'mainly' race orientated pieces it would be reasonable to assume any 'similar' part may need honing for fit and maybe adjustment in the valve seal area - but saying that if the outer and inner bores suit the head & valves I can't imagine any reason not to use (usual caveats apply) The GS was just a slightly less complicated variation of the Zed motor after all!

Please DO NOT blindly bore to spec's - manufacturer or internet! Give the pistons to the person / company doing the boring so they can bore and hone each bore to suit each piston - have them numbered to match corresponding bore so they don't get mixed up. A nominal 0.002 - 0.003" clearance is usual. If the boring outfit is good, all their measuring tools will be temp controlled to ensure accuracy, they will also want to know the application as racing & HP intensive uses need slacker size, whilst a quiet & long life road engine is better with tighter end of tolerances.

If that's the case why do you want more 'top end' - just where you can't use it? Bar Room HP is great - but Stoplight to Stoplight accel bottom end is FAR more useful! A 1216 kit will benefit all through the range.

A plastic bottle is fine as long as you remember to empty it occasionally - its embarrassing when it pukes over LOL! Oil gets blown out due to pressurisation, so just connecting the hose back to the crankcase won't work! Connecting the hose to a can with drain back can work as long as the can is separately vented itself. Sometimes the blown out oil is milky due to condensation and some peeps don't like putting it back into the engine although if its removed it will return naturally anyway unless you run the crankcases under vacuum constantly!

Thanks Dave - that helps and looks logical. The shock movement is tiny though - maybe 20-25mm? - seems less than optimal but if it works, it works. The orientation of the levers and links on yours is similar but completely different to the OP question picture - in that one, the link / arm relationship certainly isn't parallel and more divergent hence my question!

Will probably be better than you have now but after a year? who knows! 12 month warranty - yeah right, try finding them after 12 months! Its cheap so what is there to loose.

9.5v is an issue - should be 12v or battery voltage! If you've got voltage drop its usually high resistance somewhere - either bad connection / corroded connection / bad earth. Usual indicator circuit is battery+ to fuse, fuse to relay, relay to ind. switch, ind switch to bulbs, bulbs to ground. So + volts are only required between battery and relay, so that's where i'd be looking first.

Those dogs are Donald Ducked for sure. Sharp square edges are req'd for positive engagement & retention. Even better is an undercut as later gears got.