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Everything posted by Gixer1460

  1. Cooked how? Can't say i've seen 'cooked' cam bearings! I've seen destroyed journals through oil failure and damage caused through poor oil maintenance / changes. But 'cooked' implies overheated / burnt? So IMO, common - No!
  2. Query - Use of side crash bungs - good idea! But no lever guards - why, as they seem to be the first thing that gets damaged?
  3. Don't doubt it - the DJ kit is doing what it's supposed to do - it will work with stock filters but a bit pointless!
  4. DJ stg 1 kits are designed to work with stock and free flow filters in an airbox so there can't be a huge change. Stg 3 is where the bigger fuel changes occur. Cali bike tuning is a law unto themselves due to the smog bollux added which messes with everything!
  5. LOL - aftermarket doesn't count!
  6. LOL - haven't seen a wet dream RR for about 20 years!
  7. Same as stock or 0.0021 - 0.0025" - go bigger and it'll rattle sooner!
  8. Yes - that is the bit the float NEEDLE seats into . . . . look at the picture - see the countersunk hole, that is the needle seat!
  9. Well, the jet is available, part #26 so it / they are replaceable, although stupidly expensive! Never known a new jet not to seal - the seats must be absolutely fubar'd! As said above, even contemplating using RS / FCR's is waaaay beyond sensible for this application, especially just to solve leaky needles!
  10. The term Cerakote covers a range of products / finishes but generally all are ceramic based so very hard wearing (like modern enamelling) and hi temp resistant - https://www.cerakote.com/cerakote-vs-other-coatings?to=cerakoteVsHighTemp As said there maybe a better coating designed to shed heat rather than retain it - lots of Cerakote applied to exhaust manifolds and turbo pipework to improve performance and reduce close proximity heating / under bonnet heat (in cars obvs). And like enamel it can chip easily - think stone chips?
  11. Most turbo's will pull a 17 front - anything Back gearing - allows a wider range of rears + helps chain on bigger rad front. Oh and wind up your alarm clock - bad RT LOL!
  12. I'd seriously revise that thought! As you say the coating is intended to keep heat in, not radiate it! Also the application temperature may damage the solder joints of the cooler. There may be better suited coatings but your coater may be the best person to ask. Even a powder coat could compromise heat rejection!
  13. I haven't and normally I wouldn't propose them - especially for turbo use, but everyone has a budget and within the cost savings noted there is cash available for skimmed barrels, Blandit barrel flanges can handle a decent skim. I believe using the rods, pokes the pistons out of the block! And considering their origin and s/h cost, their use in a 'performance application' stacks up as they also have OEM long term reliability on their side! God knows how vvv got here !
  14. Or alternatively with 'guesstimated' costs comparison . . . . In RED above.
  15. Possibly true but reading into other stuff available - they are kits for largely older bikes - so slow moving stock, maybe some company has had a clearout / was closing down and stuff came as a job lot? Pointless waiting for top dollar if you can actually make a return on your outlay by selling cheap? Says they are in / from USA but contacts / phone is on Japanese time - f**king confusing LOL!
  16. Ask Dave then! He builds good stuff but maybe 'forgot' to add a restriction? If you are seeing mist at the BOV - Imagine how much is inside the IC and other pipework! Or the turbo IS actually FUBAR ........... still what's another couple of £100's when you've already spent £000's LOL! Nice ET BTW!
  17. Its a Blandit for god's sake - putting a 160hp engine in a chassis built for 100hp is a pointless exercise - unless you desire the company of Paramedics, Doctors and nurses! A GSXR had a far more capable chassis to cope with its std 125+hp. Blandits CAN be made capable but suspender mods and brake upgrades cost money as well and even then, they'll never scratch as well as their sport bike brothers. If the Blandit is what you want, and with limited money IMO, i'd get a decent SA, some HyperPro progressive fork springs, some decent brakes and then put a DOT head on the Blandit bottom end, with addition of Hayabusa mk1 pistons and maybe some 36mm RS flatslides, you'll end up with a torquey road tool with about 150 odd hp! A bike that can loft the front, on the throttle in 3 gears is a damn sight more fun than having 160hp @ 10,500 rpm that you never use!
  18. What engine (i'm guessing oil boiler?) and do you have a oil feed restriction? The oiler engines make waaaaaay more oil pressure than is healthy for most turbo bearings - BB ones especially! A restriction that holds pressure down to about 30psi should be all the bearings need and avoid a rebuild?
  19. Which technically do have a flat slide . . . . . so you are both right LOL!
  20. In the UK - Left or centre dipping lights are acceptable. As long as they don't dip right - you're mint!
  21. Totally different application - the one you've found is suitable for moderate axial and radial loads with a degree of misalignment. As said above, it needs to be a needle roller for load capacity. EDIT ! ! I've just checked the Fiche and that bearing IS for the dogbones so not a 'big' load carrier and mis-alignment is a possibility so the spherical bearing would work ok! Sorry for the misdirection! One thing to add is, that bearing has a oil groove and hole so if you can, drill and tap the lever for a grease nipple and it'll likely never wear out!
  22. Yes you do, otherwise even as std., crankcase compression / blow by will push gaskets and / or oil seals out, so leading to leaks!
  23. Holy Thread resurrection Batman LOL! Run them to a nice fab'd catch can or a tin can if you are tight or dumpy K&N vent filters if you don't mind the mess !
  24. Difficult to give definitive answer as turbo response will influence ie. could be real slow starter then bam - 20psi or nice a linear climb to wherever the WG is set to. First one is dead tricky due to rate of change - ecu would maybe have to drop 20 degree's in less than a few engine revolutions. A dyno is the best place for evaluation - if in doubt, take more out than you think as its easier to put back into a running engine as opposed to one with holes in the pistons LOL!
  25. As you are running moderately high CR i'd start with 1 Deg. per psi! You won't be able to run a lot of boost anyway so once you find it's ok you can wind it back slowly. High CR will get detonation earlier unless you have significant intercooling or other anti-det methods available!
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