Gixer1460

Maybe a difference in terminology but as far as I'm aware, 'Rising Rate' FPR's work by increasing at a fixed %. A turbo FPR should be a boost referenced device that is 1:1 ratio with pressure increased in direct proportion to boost pressure, no more, no less above its static base pressure. Although not the smallest FPR's - Malpassi Turbo FPR's work well once the base spring pressure is reduced to bike carb friendly levels.

Other than using a known set of carbs that were taken off a running engine the same day - no, not really. Or a brand new set that have never been used! Sometimes even the 'mighty fix all ultrasonics' struggle to clear the tiniest of jet drillings due to the build up of rock hard crud, so part replacement is the answer!

I think it's a translation problem - we have Dutch speakers so maybe problem in native language and let us deal with Google's interpretation?

That sort of boost pressure is in the no-mans land for pumps - its too high for normal hi pressure carb type pumps (that normally top out @ about 10psi) and too low for a EFI pump as although perfectly capable, you'll be bypassing most of the flow back to the tank. This is of course assuming you are using blow through carbs and not EFI . . . . . . in which case most EFI pumps will do 3 bar + 1 bar boost.

You've got to take off 100kpa (atmospheric pressure) to see what boost is. Why such a high static fuel pressure? Have you not got a boost compensated FPR?

Orange normally to Ign Sw. then to fusebox so everything can be turned off - bare basic looms are great till something goes wrong and nothing can be isolated or turned off! And I wouldn't put Alternator output (orange) through a kill switch unless you want either a melted mess or a fire on your hands!

Although it doesn't need any other 'boxes', it does need a working / functional ATU to provide the advance curve. Unless your GS1000 was all electronic from the factory, it should have one - just make sure its not seized and all is good.

Can't be a Blandit1200 part as they've only 5 gears ! But saying that if the shift drum only goes to '5', the 6th pin never gets contacted! I have a thought that Busa's GPS might also fit and do have different voltage outputs for each gear - so maybe an alternative?

The stator's always tend to look burnt - usually down to poor oil maintenance / long periods between changes! So, as long as its working - save your pennies!

That's from bone dry and new filter, so i'm guessing its slightly over-filled!

Have you actually HPI'd it, as that frame No. is fine - the one I did was KZ550G 00**77 so I know it works with non 17 figure sequences!

Get a friendly dealer to do an HPI check based on the VIN No. I had to do this for a lost V5 and no reg. plate - gave that and loads of other data, shouldn't cost more than £10

WTF ! ! ! I can guess, but i'd rather not!

I didn't think Ledar kits were available anymore after Leon died, but it seems someone bought the rights and the tooling and they are again in the market - check Eblag - I saw GS1000 kits being offered. I used a Ledar kit on a GSX750 back in the day - worked good and i've used multiple DJ kits on OC engines with great results - pays yer money and takes yer choice! (if available)

I don't think they are vague - couldn't be clearer. Mount plate centred in the slots, then see photo, then check lines on rotor against the scale on the timing bracket. Adjust the plate to correct timing angle required. Very rarely to the pick-ups need moving on the plate as they are 180 deg. apart. When LED comes on, spark will occur. Oh and don't rotate engine with the cap head screw - it'll snap, many have tried and many have failed. For absolute accuracy a degree wheel and timing light is required but with a CO engine, you'll just get covered in oil from c/case opening beside oil pressure switch!

The nut is just a 'key' to hold the ATU - to remove the ATU, undo the socket head bolt, regular thread, Leftie loosie!

If you want 'stripped down' - the basic custom loom contained somewhere in the vault is as good a place to start - copied below for reference. One advantage these days is wire size against current capacity has improved so loom bundles are physically smaller & lighter !

I think you mean - wired in parallel. If wired in series each bulb filament would only get 6v power. Another thing to check is that if the bulbs are H4 halogen or the pissy weak 35/35w tungsten which were often fitted when dual lights used and these wouldn't have required a relay. If they are, then a wiring upgrade with relays and H4 bulbs would literally make a 'night & day' difference - just follow the coloured wire diagram.

They ain't lying though so can't be chased for trade descriptions

If it ran fine with pods, then its been jetted to suit and won't run good with an airbox - suspect its too rich, so unless you want to go down the re-jetting rabbit hole, i'd put pods back on as a start! Got to ask - why did he change a bike on loan from a mate and without asking?

You say 'Zee', I say 'Zed' - porting / gasflowing - two words to describe the same thing IMO!

True, but as the lever ratio is likely to be different with hydraulics the pull could be quite changed - just see the feel differences with brakes and changed master bores!

Bit light on the instructions and seems that its aimed at moto x, pit bikes, ATC's so use on a 'proper' bike may not function well! But for £15 who's going to give it a go . . . . . . oh and doesn't appear to have a bleed screw so maybe invest in a bleed screw banjo bolt also !

As the tach is electronic it should be possible. If you are keeping the original running gear ie. wheels then the speedo will work and read correctly - if changing those then readings will be wrong!

Would sort of indicate the bearing behind is fubar'd if shaft not centralised?