Gixer1460

Can you actually see it without removing the basket?

Yeah, Wurth is the 'go to' set for Timeserts! Shame they don't include a drill as well so you'll need a good sharp 12mm HSS drill as well.

Most 7" / 175mm round headlamps and shells will swap between makes / models of bikes - as long as you have side mounts present and enough rearward space, they'll generally all fit. If you are swapping from a 'normal' bulb to Halogen it would be wise to add relays in the power lines due to increased demand.

Sounds about right without digging it out.

I got an Emtes one from NLR ages ago - needed an adult with welding skills to adapt a Ign cover, btw its tiny - thats an M10 screw that got adapted with a hex to drive off the ign. rotor bolt & oil fitting is -8!

Stock tap is probably a good shout - if this is a Blandit then it only had to supply 120hp, GSXR's maybe about 180hp ! A Pingel will feed at least 370hp as i've done it. Venting possible but again std GSXR tank had no problems with previous noted supply. At 6000 you shouldn't be draining float bowls - what pump are you using? Dead head fuel or with return line? Pre or post carbs FPR position?

Potential differences between GSXR, F touring and G shafties

If thats your intention then use a GS1150 / EFE crank and rods - try and find a good one, save on pulling it apart, if the bearings are good just weld up the pins fully and be done with it! Spending £1500+ on a crank for sub 200hp doesn't make sense . . . . . . . . unless you get boost addicted ! ! ! As Clive says its usually detonation that kills engines, that or oil problems. Start fat on fuel and safe on ignition and use a dyno to creep up on optimal but don't try for a 'little bit more' - you have been warned!

First question surely is 'what are you looking to get out of it? As this could / can determine what specification will suit. A suck thro aircooled with an HSR / S&S and knee burning dump pipe is about as oldskool as it gets and will do low to mid 200's with a reasonable amount of work (which would be required for a 'good' N/A engine anyway) But as to your questions - I didn't know any other gears other than the 750 ones were available? It used to be them or stock - no options!. A freshened and preped crank will NEVER be cheap - this is where the oil boilers score! A/C rods, given the choice use 493 marked rods - known as Katana rods originally and used in many racing engines - again the oil boilers get a break as cheap std rods can take substantial hp increases. BTW I have BIG Cosworth pistons in my 1460 engine - not a 'usual choice' but they do the job.

How do you 'know' that they are low comp? They don't look to have a complete dish or is that raised portion just a photo artifact? It wouldn't need much of a thicker head gasket to make the 10.25's work in a blown application as they'd be classed as low comp for a NA build.

The spacer - thats the tricky bit to get right !

I figured it might have been from the sidecover. But as regards running 'well', the idle is all over the shop!

I wonder how well it actually works (if it works at all ! - show mock ups being a possibility) with a turbo blowing into a REALLY well undergeared supercharger ?

Sort of true - airflow here is generally minimal and it's also a low pressure zone which won't help! My main cooler is under the seat but has a thermo switched fan due to lack of airflow.

Your flows are backwards as the 'head cooler' isn't doing anything and if behind the battery, probably even less. Std. head cooling oil is bizarrely directly from the sump and not cooled at all so the head gets whatever temp that is in the sump. To improve this situation, oil should be routed from the former 'Y' (changed to a straight union) to a cooler (ideally located in good airstream ie. at front) with its other side split via a 'Y' or a 'T' into the rear cam cover ports, or in your case a single line to the billet oil rail. No return to sump is required as all returns are engine internally routed.

No - if you are on a budget then it would be a waste of money for a 'virtually' stock engine. With just a pipe / can the stock carburation should run exactly as . . . . . . . stock. Stripping and ultra cleaning of the carbs is the way to go - ethanol in fuel has a lot to answer for ! ! !

Most people would just be happy to shoot for between 10 - 12 thou. As regards that combination - all bets are off, and I don't want to know, how, why, when or where!

Whatever the workshop manual states or maybe +0.001" greater. Ring gap is more critical and that is what your figure refers to - if you honed the cylinder to 0.015 - 0.018", the piston would be like a cock in a sock . . . . . . ie LOOSE! If you are using aftermarket pistons, the manufr. will usually state clearence required which could be less than stock if low expansion alloy's have been used.

Don't bother with 'bling' as you'll generally never see it again after fitting - just get a known piece, fit and forget. At the power levels you are looking for, I'd fit a 12mm M6 screw and locknut on 3 of the arms and try it - unlikely you'll need all 6 but its possible + start with fresh Suzuki fibres and it should be mint!

I remember Sean @ BigCC had a Dom Trickett EFE head done with equal sized inlet and exhaust valves, fully ported both sides as he figured getting the exhaust out was maybe more important whilst the intake was forced in. As far as I know it lasted barely a few dyno pulls as it just didn't work so got off'd into the pile of failed experiments LOL! Conversely, a big valve will pay off if running big boost if only to minimise ANY potential airflow restriction.

Yes they did, here is the reference - E3336.002 - Euro models only (for obvious reasons) I'm not sure they are Ti - more like hard anodised aluminium. A Ti made needle would not wear like the one shown. Compare to the steel OEM which has virtually no wear and Ti is tougher than steel for abrasion wear! Dunno what that 2nd needle is from but it ain't for a GSXR1100 K / L ! The other 4 are deffo for 36mm CV's on a GSXR1100 K/L 1127cc.

He's not wrong and can't tell from the pic if 40s are fitted or not. If they are. . . . well there's your problem LOL

I've never had a problem, even swapping diaphragm to spring and spring with lock-ups - fill. bleed, work! Only thing I needed to do with clutch swap is add a 6mm ball bearing over the push rod - couldn't be arsed to make a new one as it just worked!

Those look like the ones I used - 1186 bore, 4-2-1 V&H Supersport Dual pods 136 & 138 MJ - set-up on dyno 144 rwhp. Have you done the whole conversion inc the slide holes? Mine worked fine from the get-go, just dyno'd to fine tune!