Gixer1460

Sparkie used to have a Hippo on gas to over 250hp - worked for years, don't know of any failures!

anything that has a throttle blade can use MAP sensor! More accurate Actual load sensor compared to TPS!

About as clear and concise an answer to simple question!

Getting oil past the fire rings & into cylinders is poor gasket prep or it's failed! If 3rd time I'd suspect non flat head or block!

could be MAP!

I said a std Hayabusa chain - didn't specify DID! If it's the std Busa chain, it's not a 'std DID as Busa's have made 180+hp NA stock! Any superbike chain these days will easily live with an 'old 1100' even GSX variants!

Be aware seeking / asking for / wanting stuff is bending site rules! Contribute to the site, 50 posts then request all you like!

Plenty good enough! More than a few turbo'd Buss's over 500+hp using std 530 chain and loads done using 525 - good enough?

whilst the fcr39's are bloody nice - why not just fit RS40's ???

is #4 plug wet or dry? if wet likely electrical, if dry then you know what the answer will be! Plus if plug is wet - change it for new as they rarely get better!

They are much closer as you are omitting the rubber AND it's an aluminium inlet which soaks up heat! Suggest you get it working first then try to 'improve it' or it could end up as a dogs dinner and get parked, never finished - happens too often!

wind the idle screw in a bit - bikes aren't cars and don't idle lower than 1000 odd minimum! Usually 11 - 1200 is about right

Never used Loctite just FT!

Big plastic thing with filter material in the centre!

Stop overthinking! There is optimal positioning and there is - it works!, positioning. I used twin injector TB's by Jenvey - one in top, one in from below, neither of which point at valves - they just work acceptably well! One point to watch it positioned too close to head a) they can get heat soaked and b) there is a cam chain tunnel in the way of the fuel rail so other things influence where things can go!

assume all the float valves are working and are set to open? Yes bowls are vented - usually biggish hose between bodies above bowls. have the bowls a drain screw - loosen till fuel flows out.

Agreed on that - a M8 with a well tuned Blandit fitted some FCR41's and had them properly set up - but, although excellent power, proved not good on the road. Changed to RS36's = night & day difference, still good power 150's hp but torque to die for! If it was std'ish Blandit say, 34's would surprise a lot of people!

Or re-centre the engine 4mm to the right! If the chain is clearing the tyre & is clearing the frame, I think moving the engine and preserving the chain clearance to cases would be preferable!

This is a YT video from what i'd call an excellent engine reconditioning company - its a diesel engine but the principles are exactly the same. If you don't want to see the whole procedure, go to 29.30 for the valve work, but the rest is quite informative. Bear in mind that a dealer was quoting $20k for a new engine, I'm pretty sure this level of detail work would have resulted in a $8-10k bill - but based on what they did and found with parts for the rods at the end - which would you prefer to have (cost excluded)?

Personally i'm not liking the look of the basket! Being steel they rarely get too damaged or worn - its the hub that takes the brunt due to being soft - yours looks brand new! I've never seen a steel basket with that much marking. Chasing the lock-up set-up can wait - if there is 3mm gap its good to go. As noted above, is the push rod correct length? When I swapped a spring clutch into my diaphragm equipped GSXR, I used the std push rod but added a 6mm ball bearing which give correct operation - i've used M6 nuts before as well. Has it ever worked correctly, as its seems like its been going on for a while?

If its blowing out oil - you've got crankcase pressure problems, and if the engine is off, and stood upright and you still can't see oil in the sight glass - its underfilled! The first issue means either a blocked or defective breather or routed badly or connected back on itself making a closed loop . . . . . or the engine is worn and breathing too heavily! The second - put more oil in till the level is between the marks!

Using this logic - if you need 50lbs of boost to go 400+hp, I think you've got more fundamental issues!

If you like / are into / can understand, coding - the Speeduino could be a good choice as its based around an Arduino Mega - not very small board but packs a big spec! And I believe it has a degree of 'self learning' capability which could be useful - I was a bit sceptical of this a few years ago but they are really getting quite good. I saw a video of a Holley unit taken out of the box, given the basic info about engine, plugged in and it ran. Then on a drive it learnt and improved maps continually to a very accurate result - its not AI nor SkyNet but its bloody good nonetheless!

Trust me, the fact that a guide has been removed and a new one fitted WILL mean the valve seat is not concentric nor perpendicular to the guide - no matter how careful you are. Commercial valve seat cutters use air bearings to ensure the cutters are perfectly aligned with the guides - I assume you don't have one, the average mill will have run-out and backlash in its quill, spindle and table - all these tolerances build up such that every guide could be mis-aligned fractions of degrees. If you are VERY lucky valve refacing and lapping in may work but generally it won't and for exhaust valves it is particularly necessary due to the heat transfer aspect especially with turbo applications! There are lots of very bright and clever machinists on this site and even they will trust their engine rebuilding engineering to other professionals, as 'nearly right' is not good enough! Not knocking ambition but has to be weighed against ability!

Whilst most of us don't give a toss about undersized guides as it's the head or engine builders responsibility to re-size! Plus Suzuki San only has to fit his valves whilst APE have to allow for any OEM & aftermarket offerings! I trust you have seat cutting gear as new guides need seats recutting - just saying!