Gixer1460

If aftermarket, then something akin to a Mocal 19 row std. width will cope with most things. It may be 'cool and stylish' to have a small cooler which may cope with day to day running but not so clever on a hot day stuck in traffic and cooking the engine - just my personal opinion!

K&Ns and the exhaust ain't going to help unless tuned on a Dyno. Oil in the fuel, depending on quantity could be an issue as 'thick' fuel won't like small jet holes! I wouldn't use the advancer till it's running half way good!

Firstly - if I can get shot of the car, that is next on the agenda! And continuing the off topic - Oh yeah, there isn't much inside those cases that is stock anymore!

Doesn't look 'steam punk' to me LOL! . . . . . .

I'd add a grand on to that figure . . . . https://www.proboost.fi/motorcycle-turbo-kits There are others of course - UK sourced . . . . . http://www.warpspeedracing.co.uk/?page_id=312 maybe a little cheaper but the end bill usually will start with a 3 LOL! Boost is like Crack or Smack - you soon want a bigger & better high!

You've missed an 'O' from the RH 'O-W' . . . . . . obvious to me but maybe not for the electrically challenged!

Apparently R6 or R1 twist grip barrels are 1/3 or 1/4 turn . . . . . . if you like that sort of thing LOL!

I'd say that BOV's aimed at the car / auto market are generally sprung too heavy as cars pull waaaaay more vacuum than a bike ever will - start soft and prepare to go softer, BOV should just about flutter at idle.

What FPR is it? Malpassi ? i'm guessing with a cut down spring to get the low pressure required?

That's pretty much where most of them end up, from what i've seen!

Figure out how low the turbo oil discharge is and if using a 'windscreen washer' type, electric vane pump, then the pump needs its inlet near or below that level due to poor suction + oil will be aerated so even worse for suction. If you are using a mechanical 'oil pump' scavange then they are usually driven off the crankshaft so will be higher up as their suction performance is much better!

Not sure how? Cable drive rotates one way needle & counter goes up and increases, turn the other way and needle hits stop but figures shouldn't decrease due to one way drive? - all very weird!

It's a BOV, not a waste gate and functions with vacuum not boost. Vacuum only available engine side of butterflies.

Oh well, wrong about the tool (must have been some other engine LOL) but i'm guessing the Suzuki manual assumes you have a full shim kit with every size available beside you, for a one out / one in procedure. Nice if you have - but if you haven't, you are sort of back to the cam out method!

I think there is a 'proper' tool that has a forked end that bears on the retainer to compress the spring to allow the shim to be plucked out with a magnet. In the absence of that, i've measured all the gaps, noted down same, Remove the cams, take out and measure shims, work out the +/- required to correct, if lucky swap shims around, and then find correct ones missing and rebuilt the top end!

Company in UK called 'Trigger Wheels.com' does a 50mm 36-1 wheel that will fit a oil cooled engine - they have tested it to 20,000 rpm but don't say with what pick-up - even so, it gives some hope, they are also a good source of all things EFI related. Certainly a 24 tooth wheel in that size is a lot easier to machine on a DIY sized milling machine

Yes the OP is 'merican and the T is a sort of 'cruiser' type - we had the LT - little peanut type tank and rareish over here!

Arttu seems to like 24 - 2 wheels as I believe the sensor can keep up with 36-1 @ higher RPMS! You first describe normal flow and return system then say you'll be using returnless - make yer mind up

Tin Tops by a long stretch!

Holy thread reserection and for a different 'new' bike ! ! ! Don't know exactly but Suzuki have used white and yellow for feeds to dip and main or main and dip respectively for years. Just buy a manual - Clymer are good for coloured wire diagrams - and they are useful for other things also!

Blandit or GSXR ?

What ?

What you are seeking - as others have said - is consistancy! Unfortunately a road or an average RWYB surface (unless its SP) will be variable to the extent no consistancy is possible. In that case, a two step may not be the best solution. Some clutch tuning may help but if its a ride to and from, road bike you will be limited in what is possible whilst getting used to controlling and riding through enevitable wheelies! Softening compression and increasing rebound on rear shock will help as will strapping the front forks and as Clive says 15psi is a good starting rear tyre pressure (just don't forget to pump it up again if riding home - yes we've all done it!)

Re : tuning them, not a clue but i've a set of 41's to do in the future. But the airfilters - thats easy . . . . . use the oval foam pods from RamAir or similar. They stretch over the stacks easily and will be retained by them. A light coat of filter oil will improve them markedly!

You can if you accept max of 0.5bar boost with no headroom to increase + the pistons will be a weak point even with restricted boost