Gixer1460

Has it ever run in this configuration? I've never seen / used or played with an Ignitech Racing 3 unit, so treat anything said as guesswork! There are some strange setting figures in some of that set up that don't make 'normal' sense? I don't know how the unit synchronises with the std wide tooth and that may be an issue? The signal trace is odd - wide tooth is obvious then there should be 3 more equally spaced - but they aren't ? And there is no output on the 2nd channel? Dwell time seems excessive - I usually have a setting of 3000 - 3500 microsecs

At least he's / she's / they are trying to contribute and not using this as a cheap Eblag site! An acceptable first post abit a tad late

The Haynes maybe in Black & White but all the colours are noted on the wire routes - its not that tricky to follow! Only real difference between the GS and GSX will be ignitions ( points vs electronic ) also the daft light feed wired from the RR on the GS, so potentially interchangeable although nothing is guaranteed!

Bigger and shiney is generally not worth the effort. Bigger carbs mess with where you are 90% of the time and the only polishing worth doing is the cyl. head chamber and even that only lasts for a few hundred miles!

Seems a bit down considering stock M's were claimed 150 with 40mm CVs - I know that was crank but did have quiet exhaust! My L with 36 CVs and a pipe made 126 rwhp!

Unlikely, nor have I heard of it being done.

Unless the symptoms at wot are on the road or on a Dyno, you can't tell what it needs but only going up 10 points it is likely deffo lean - it's a radically different intake & exhaust from stock. And K&N's aren't restrictive! But CV carbs don't particularly like individual pods - duals work better!

Absolutely, as boost is applied to the float bowl and if fuel pressure doesn't track it, you'll run lean!

Certainly either AFR or Boost guage will give more useful info whilst in use! A fuel pressure guage mounted after FPR can be useful initially but most will adjust so that floats don't leak without using a guage. Is this NA or Blown? If the latter, you will require a pump having potential for 120 - 125% minimum pressure to acommodate boost over base pressure don't forget!

Begs the question - why?

All AC 1100 heads will fit / work with all 1100 bottom ends - even 1100 OC heads fit and can be made to work. EFE / 1150 heads generally liked for cleaner styling but no great performance gain. Lots of aftermarket cams available if performace required - std cams meh!

Tests on NA ram pipes show that any radius more than 90 - 100 degrees perpendicular to airflow produces little increases. As regards pipe opening to internal plenum face - a minimum of 10mm is recommended - more is better and closer to the outlet wall is maybe best position. If you want steel ram pipes you could use Weber DCOE pipes 17mm is their shortest I think, and dia's of 40, 45, 48 & 50.

All 'oldskool' turbo's used to be draw / suck through, so yes everything will fit providing you don't go mad with the whistle! Whilst a S&S carb would be period correct a Miki HSR would work better.

I had aluminium buttons fitted into a GSXR 4 arm hat - the arms wore a slight groove in each button after many years of turbo & nitrous abuse! Don't think mine were threaded, probably friction fit and LARGE press!

Big bore GSX with dot head - interesting combination! IMO stock cams, even the better ones are much of a muchness, none stand out ! Even the best ones are liable to be lift limited with those lungs to fill!

How does this work as physics says air inside the plenum and outside it will be at atmospheric pressure - vacuum / lower pressure only occurs engine side of throttle blades. In a two stroke, the whole of the crankcase is the vacuum chamber as piston rises causing the reeds to open and draw AF mixture in. I've seen 'Priority valves' like this but they were connected to engine side of carbs / TB's.

Won't be far off maybe a little less is possible, otherwise it looks like thats your CR - low - so off boost will be like a greyhound on Mogadon, but will probably take more boost than the turbo can make! Have you removed the detonation causing edges around the valve cut outs ?

In the calc you've got a figure of 0.74! Set it to 0.0 and see what result is?

Isn't a 'std' 1100 head volume about 26/27cc? If so, it can't have been skimmed very much? I think the Dot 750 heads volume is around 23cc for comparison! What happens if the 0.74mm is omitted?

When you've measured piston dome volume was that at max stroke? If so, i'd omit the 'deck clearance' figure as it would be included already in the dome volume? Sorry, thats my best guess but Bus pistons reknowned for dropping CR but that number does seem low!

Wuss!

If you know there is lag - just roll into the throttle earlier! Problem solved with no added complications! All the early race / rally drivers adopted this approach and used to mash the throttle before the corner entry!

Deffo concur ! A correct clearance will, a) ensure the valves are closed and not leaking and b) provide sufficient time when seated, to transfer heat from the valve into the seat and head to prevent overheating / burning valves or pre-ignition / detonation. Even reduced clearances when cold are not sufficient as heat expansion closes the gap and you will be back to square one. Unlike tappet style valve operation where the gap grows with use and gets noisy, buckets close the gap so you don't get the audible warning - everything just gets FUBAR'd

"why didn't you move them?" . . . . . . . "Not my job fella!" - an unfortunate comment on society these days!

Never seen or heard of it being done that way and query its actual effectiveness! Reasoning - turbo spool relies on heat pressure ie, hotter exhaust with increased flow make turbine spool up - agreed? Adding (what will be cooled via intercooler) air, pre turbine will slow the process! Doesn't matter that it is 'boosted' / pressurised air, its pressure is insignificant compared to the exhausts back pressure its being added into. Plus, excessive retard used on 'closed' throttle will over heat the turbine blades in turn destroying them in short order. This is fine in competition and with large budgets that can afford new replacement turbos every event or even during but pretty un-economic for a street vehicle. And, why would you need high boost launch control on the street anyway - most things are traction limited in lower gears with restricted boost ! Turbosmart are smarter than me and a lot more experienced but i'm still struggling to make sense of this - in an everyday scenario!