Gixer1460

Can you or anyone explain how that shock linkage works because I can't! - whichever way the arm moves, the shock doesn't ! ! ! Confused!

Can't think of any reason to block a jet within a carb - turbo or otherwise . . . . . a guy in his shed is unlikely to know more than the Mikuni knowledge vault when it comes to carb jetting ie. if its there, its there for a reason.

I suspect it's 'Marvel Mystery Oil' - widely used in the colonies to fix everything LOL's

That would explain why it wasn't 'visible' at UK or European sources! Even so, it should be 'full power' unless the emission restrictions extend into the CDI's as well? This is really getting strange as its acting like the Jap market bikes with restriction based on speed but 86 mph is too low, they are restricted to 112mph I believe?, all done within the speedo - needle passes sensor and ignition cut occurs. This bitsa is turning into an enigma!

Easy enough to check a part number against what is supposed to be fitted on somewhere like Robinson Foundry or CMSNL ? (providing the part # tag is still legible!)

No - TPS of this vintage were idiot devices to only retard ignition in lower gears and for noise emission standards! A DJ 2000i or Ignjet? system is a good idea if further tuning mods - Head work, Bore size, CR increase etc., otherwise a stock system is still ok.

Dunno what the 'M-Max' device is - certainly not Suzuki std fitment! Maybe some sort of restriction device? If it won't go past 86mph it is certainly restricted - what happens when it gets to 86mph and what are the rev's / rpm doing? Same in 4th / 5th / 6th ? I don't believe 94 GSXR's had speed sensing integrated - TPS was just for load adjustments.

The 'signal' wires ground out the coils to collapse the primary magnetic field and induce a mega voltage in the secondary whose only path to ground is through the spark plug.

In case you don't - a little blip of throttle whilst moving the gear lever, or moving the gear lever whilst still moving, will usually allow neutral selection. Basically either will 'unload' the clutch to allow easier movement - 101 big bike operation manual LOL!

Maybe GS1000 rubbers might work or are they bolt on?

Or sticky throttle cable

Unlikely to blow-by as there are 4No holes, all at 90 degrees to each other.

Don't take as gospel but I think the 1100 is 21 pins and 750 is 22 ? ? ? Brain is old and memory fading + i'm not near a manual presently!

Waste of time and due to proximity to cyl. head or upstream of turbo (depending on style chosen) would likely fail in short order! A single sensor after turbo is usual placement but be warned if running a shortie dump pipe the sensor can be confused with atmospheric oxygen due to sensor being close to exhaust exit! Try not to fit before turbo as pressure and elevated temps not good for them!

You do realise that if you get it 'bob on' for sea level riding, with the added weight / drag / power loss at altitude - you might not get home again? Won't comment on potential jetting as there are far to many variables in play. But that outfit and your situation almost cry out for an EFI conversion - self adjusting for altitude!

Draw through comments all fairly valid IF using a carb solution! Most, if not almost all go away, if you use an injected solution. Plus Draw Through is Oldskool Cool!

I've had 4 Dyna 2K's - still have one on my 1460 and never had a problem but others have - maybe the far east production had an effect ? But the Ignitec is newer tech and reports are good about them plus made closer to home if there is a problem. Haven't used one or even seen one fitted so thats the limit of my recommendation!

I think (believe) this one (in the centre) to be either GSX750ET or GSX1100EFE. The one on the right is simple Neutral only. If the drums do rotate in different directions its sort of clear why you don't get all the outputs ( i'm almost surprised you get any!)

Could try 'Turbo Dynamics' down in Christchurch, Dorset. They are rebuilders and have always had mainstream stuff for me, usually in stock.

I was just thinking that myself. The arc the shift drum pin takes is usually worn into the 'switch' and if you are lucky there might be wear spots for 2,3 and 4. First and 5th should be obvious as last places in the 'track' in either direction. Drill through with 3 or 4mm drill and epoxy in some 3 or 4mm brass rod, flatten off over sheet of wet & dry (engine side) and solder wires to brass on outer side. Once done, coat with epoxy to seal. Don't forget all the outputs will be to ground, so bulbs in the indicator should have common 12v+

Blandit . . . . at a guess?

Which is fine if you never want anything other than spring pressure boost otherwise you have to add a bleed valve or solenoid valve into that line to bleed pressure to 'fool' the WG actuator into thinking the higher boost is actually lower. And in answer to someone above - actuators are very rarely bolted directly to turbine housings, even where internal WG's are used, the actuator is usually bracketed off the Compressor, or fixed on a short stub pipe to avoid heat AND facilitate mounting!

Could be anything these days if no markings! Carillo only laser etch numbers - no stamping. Chinese 'cheap' copies use bolts marked ARP . . . . . but aren't. You paysyer money and rolls the dice!

I did, and it had the gear indicator, that's why I assumed an 1100 ET did also! Obvs not it seems!

Here is the page from Robinsons for info - part # 36 inc part numbers with superceded one also.