Gixer1460

LOL's - Only took a week! Anyway no part #'s as such - see photo. Interestingly it appears that the electronics may not be 'potted' as the case looks like it would come apart with some effort - I'm not going to as clumsy tools and 30yr old electronics don't mix !

No - contradiction is fine, when as in this case you are correct! Yes brain fart time, of course front sprocket is proportional to rear wheel speed DOH! The high / low rotational speed is the real issue having a drive off of it. As said a 'normal' front wheel speedo drive would work if on the back wheel axle.

Front sprocket won't work as a) it continually changes speed as you change gears and b) its geared lower than road wheel so would always read low anyway! BUT a speedo drive on the rear axle would work as (unless spinning) the wheel is always at road speed - can't be anything but!

Some peeps will be agast using the oil port on the side of the head as this is from the low pressure cooler circuit - my big engine uses this with no drama's so far but other than that I can't comment on longevity! As i'm using the below the barrel main gallery for the turbo supply, I don't really want to draw more oil away from that and the crank & rod bearings.

Set the cams for adjustment by the slots in the ends of the cams. Read manual for info! If no hexagon, bump it over on the starter or rear wheel in gear!

I have to go out to garage tomorrow (wednesday) so will find it then. But parts fiche says same # as 'M' part number : 329 0040C00

Supressed = (possibly) restricted, for those countries that required lower max power. I have one for a K/L that I took off when swapped to a Dyna 2000 ? Not a restricted one UK had full power!

The manual is correct and yes they are waaaaay different to CV's, a totally different type of carb so settings don't translate!

I just read it all - Hmmmm - Snake Oil is my thinking! What don't they coat / use it on . . . . . . nothing seemingly! For example they suggest coating valve springs for longevity - but drag race springs don't get hot enough for long enough to affect their strength, they loose tension through use and generally get changed routinely every few events to prevent actual breakage.

Buggered if I'm going to read that lot on my phone! LOL

How do you actually shed heat if not through head and pistons? Small % through cylinder walls via rings and convection but guessing most via exhaust valves which will get REAL toasty! I know F1 engines are using this technology to exceed 50% thermal efficiency but they ain't exactly cheap, budget builds LOL!

You have a fully equipped maching shop? - Make something to suit? You have patterns to measure and modify and tree's aren't the most complex of shapes!

That is clearly an electrical problem LOL!

And what happens if the welding causes them to move? Does his price include re-cutting all the seats as if they move, that's what will be required! Why give the engine big lungs and ask it to breathe through straws?

Lots of Funny and ProMod bikes making more than 500hp and still using 1150 cases, 1100 cases and in some instances Zed cases!

Seen plenty of cracked heads GSX and GSXR used on the street and in racing and not one ever had a seat move or cause a problem other than looking ugly!

Depends on what 1100? Slabside or Slingshot ? What you quote (although in antiquated measurements LOL) is correct for 89 on GSXR1100 K, L, M and N. If its the earlier engine, then the measurement is 4.261" / 108.23mm

60 ! - a mere whippersnapper !

Applies in both cases and if you want to loose compression - for a turbo using hi comp pistons that are forged (because that is what you've got!)

This one flew under the radar when it was posted but just grabbed my attention - if they are the same weight but physically the same size that would imply they are of a slightly lighter steel? I see that the GSXR rod has a 'chunkier' big end with longer bolts but Busa shank and small end are somewhat larger in comparison. As regards strength - unprepped GSXR rods almost guaranteed to fail at 250hp with NOS and under 300hp with turbo. If prepped then maybe 5-10hp more but risky - I don't believe aftermarket rod bolts are available which would help. Not seen too many Busa rod failures so can't say about their strength but they 'look' as if they've got metal in the right places - rod bolt looks weak though!

Swapping shim valve actuation to 'normal' rocker arm actuation . . . . . . . pointless IMO in a turbo engine that is unlikely to be over revved!

I'm no electrickery expert but I think if the sticks are paralleled like opt 2 you'll get 12v but circuit resistance is halved so twice the amps will flow - so stressing the ignition amp transistors. 12v @ 3 ohms = 4A, 12v @ 1.5 ohms = 8A. But parallel gives 12v @ 0.75 ohms = 16A! Please get an adult to check the above.

Interestingly, your quoted part number - not found ! Kent only list two cams for the GSX11 - SUZ 5 (street) and SUZ 17 (race)!

You may be an old man but you are likely to get some flak for that post!

I'm with Arttu on this one - I can't see the second gear being a problem (I'd never heard about that problem !) particularly as this is happening in 1st gear ! And as said, its not occuring where usual slip occurs. So, I believe this is more of an engagement issue, like, although the lever is fully thrown and clutch should be 'locked' somewhere between the handlebar and the clutch pack there is a hang up stopping full engagement - something like bad adjustment / cable too tight or what I suspect - a frayed cable inner somewhere? I'd try a different cable, if only to elliminate that?