Gixer1460

Er? - Its a 200cc engine - at 2.0L plenum capacity, that is 10x not 2x !

Or just use Dynojet or JetPro needles and jets . . . . . . . . they exist for this very reason.

With RS carbs its different - they are meant to be swapped around for tuning - with regular carbs the OEM has done the tuning - hours/days/months in varying conditions to get the best result for that particular application . . . . they don't want you messing with them!

A needle chart won't give that sort of info as AFR is very engine dependent! It can't really say if it is leaner or richer so you are back to square one! At least with a micrometer, you could compare needles one to another and make a judgement call or do it the old school way - start lean and stone away material till the mixture is where you want it - yes, it very labour intensive, that why tuning costs loads! And as to how much, you are measuring in the 0.025mm / 0.001" range or less, so not a lot can make a difference!

How the hell does a stock Blandit pull 17/43 gearing with any sort of accell? I used 17/45 with a turbo 1127 huffing it along for excellent accell, top end and racing!

No one buys 'new' Busa pistons - virtually every build uses s/hand ones even retaining old rings in some cases. Keep searching Eblag and forums, they come up fairly frequently. But if going aftermarket route due to cost - why not spec the right turbo piston for what you want and not the 'wrong' one and hoping to get the right CR. And yes high comp pistons can be used with a turbo . . . . . . just add a decomp plate. I used 1186 12.5:1 pistons with a 2mm plate - very turbo friendly!

Also, 530 sprockets will be significantly smaller diameters for the same gear ratio / tooth count - this sometimes means they rub on swingarm pivots etc. Easily fixed with a nylon wear plate fixed to the arm!

Long story short - without some / most of those tools, you'll have to find someone with them! Yes, complete assemblies can be swapped in but for example a Blandit arm will probably need spacers and maybe a pivot pin change to suit the frame plus its monoshocked so that will need a mount fab'd up or you fab up some shock mounts to weld to the Blandit arm . . . . . . you get the picture, just about anything is possible but you need the tools or find someone with them (and who knows how to use them)

Ah - good old Chinky knock off of a Dyna S. If its working correctly (not a given baring in mind from where it came) it should run exactly where it is set currently. I think that model uses original ATU (auto timing unit) for advance - is this free and working correctly? Are the two notches in the black ign. rotor engaged with the pegs in the ATU, and all free to rotate? I wouldn't be playing with timing till it runs / idles. There still could be issues in the carbs and its unusual for odd pairs of cyl's or one to get a lot hotter purely down to ignition issues! Trying to diagnose problems from 3000 miles away is never an exact science!

Possibly the other thing to consider based on your reply above is that stick coils will fire using lower input voltage ie they'll work in series for a 4 cyl using a 12v input but effectively only getting 6v each . . . . . so maybe there is an issue in the coil feed line? Whatever if the bike is working!

Whilst running water / methanol can be adventageous, I'd be wary about its use 'carte blanche'. Its historic use was to suppress detonation through over boost or excessive CR - if you aren't ticking those boxes, save it for later IMO! A gasket shouldn't 'shimmy around' - the dowels should restrain it in position but loose head nuts is not good - never had or seen nuts loosen when correctly torqued / over torqued!

So you changed multiple sets of coils and no doubt plugs also but problem was cured by using stick coils . . . . . . which don't have . . . . . Plug wires ! Probably, there be yer problem? Its always the bit that can't be faulty, but usually is.

There's rich and rich to the point of flooding! A rich mixture that is burning still make heat. I don't know what ignition you have - if its too advanced it won't help the rich situation, too retarded will tend to be burning in the pipe so would show much higher temps (this helps turbo's spool btw). I suspect either something is blocked causing rich condition or someone has been jet fiddling and gone upsize which seems it doesn't need. Are carbs 'absolutely' clear and clean - we say over and over - an Ultrasonic clean is std. for these old carbs! Check jet sizes against workshop manual quoted sizes, if only to cross off the list - and that they are the same in every carb!

As the pipe lengths dictate where - you have it correct.

#2 is a bit out of balance and 135F is barely 60 C - at idle you should be seeing maybe around 160 - 200 C ? Low running is exclusively pilot jet!

A bit, maybe 5-10psi? I've never been fussed about cold/warm/hot, it's comparative numbers that's important!

And to be honest, whilst the output numbers are ballpark, you ain't gonna get them at those rpms! Maybe add 2k to each to be nearer the mark?

Think so! I thought the whole reason for using Bus pistons on stock 1100 rods was that they dropped down the hole to drop comp for forced induction use ! ! ! They got nothing going for them otherwise, apart from being an OEM forging LOL!

Yeah sort of counter - intuitive ! A dome volume should be a minus number ie. subtracted from chamber volume, whereas a dish is a Plus number as its added to chamber volume. A difference of 16cc makes one hell of a difference ! And agree with CH - gasket number is deffo wrong - 3 hundredths of a mill is paper thickness!

You'll only tell with a dry build - which would have been better done before decking the block. CC the chambers for definitive answer. You may also need to check valve to piston clearances before building up for final time.

They don't look like std steel needles - i'm leaning more towards DJ needles? What do the MJ's look like as if you've got the needles, you'll likely use jets as well? Only seen one set of Blandit DJ needles and seem to remember them having little taper with blunt tip but could be wrong!

Using the old Sherlock motto " when you have exhausted the plausible and practical solutions, whatever is left however implausible or impractical will likely render the solution" So, do you have a rodent issue / problem in Ohio ? The little critters seem to love chomping on standing wiring looms and other automotive parts!

For clarity - measurements at cam or lifter? I don't know what the rocker ratio is on these but makes a mess of the calc if its wrong. Good info nonetheless

If a gear is 'rattling', its loose on its mounts / fixings - thus the tooth mesh isn't constant and will move back & forth, under and off load. When correctly meshed with minimal backlash any noise is imperceptible! I've had both straight cut and helical cut primaries in bikes, neither of which i'd say was loud / noisy! Now a straight cut gear set in something like a classic Mini Cooper gearbox - that is loud, noisy and whines 'like a bastard' basically due to the extra lash required for racing gear changes!

Er ! Primary shouldn't rattle - ever! They do make a bit of noise but hardly perceptable at idle. And a carb slide rattle you'd hear at idle - believe me, you would!