Gixer1460

New or old plugs? If new don't bother cleaning as fouled plugs rarely 'clean up' or function correctly - also they could be fakes if NGK / Denso ! ! ! Std coils in good working order will fire plugs in most things - high CR, Nitrous and Turbo applications will test their limits. For a 'normal' engine a std. 3.0 ohm coil will be fine. Most times 'electrical' problems are usually carb related!

The jets you've got presently sound fairly big for an 1100 (assuming that was what you had before) at normal sea level - 150/200ft elevation. At altitude of 3400ft there is less air / oxygen so those jets would give a massive rich condition ! ! ! With altitude you use less fuel to match the lesser air, thats why you lose power if keeping AFR approx the same or you lose power due to overly rich mixture! Very few peeps on here live at those sorts of elevation so any jetting advice would be dubious at best - honestly I'd try it as it is but I suspect richer is NOT what the engine wants! I don't remember the DJ / Mikuni jet correlation but my 1186 kitted GSXR with 36 CV's and 12:1 CR and unported, at maybe 50ft ASL used DJ136's and made 144hp.

I'm not sure why they are so wide compared to 'tappet' types ie. have a, twice as wide allowance, compared and as a result are noisy as 'marbles in a tin can' Drove me mad so I used the 'tappet' bottom end settings!

I'd still plump for the PAIRS valve! This functions via vacuum and you get most vacuum at idle and high rpm shut throttle. Most peeps notice the throttle shut thing due to the really loud bangs from the exhaust but this could be other end of spectrum, otherwise don't honestly know as the PAIRS got deleated on my bike as the Ex bangs got a PITA!

You can faff around all you like without taking the carbs off, but you'll never clean them properly until you do! Old rubbers usually soften up with some gentle heat and something the yanks call 'wintergreen,' whatever the hell that is - it seems to soften rubber? - if you can find it on our side of the pond!

No heat and no oil as I remember! If you have the tip protruding, it may help to file a flat on it to give your screwdriver needle point more to 'aim' at. A block of wood opposite the screwdriver in the bore will give something to lever against without damage to the alloy. Its usually just brute force and ignorance that works in the end . . . . . . . . or give up and replace the body!

They are bonded together! When you think about it, that is the only thing stopping water getting inside - its understandable!

Good luck - it took me weeks of on /off trying to do one in a set of RS's. Generally caused by screwing the screw down closed too much, it jams and just twists off! I used a needle pointed, sharpened screwdriver with tip bent at 90 degrees and work from carb bore.

Try This - No guarantee's as I picked it up years ago, as a 'Just in Case' EDIT - Site doesn't allow .dwg's or .pdf's ! ! ! Send me a PM with a email address and i'll send them!

Only if Suzuki San decided to create a whole new shifter drum! Easier to shrink a piece of plastic whilst keeping SD machining pattern the same! I think you'll find a Hayabusa has a similar PCD of contacts but different plastic moulding and electronics (more suited to EFI integration)

The giveaway is the 'D' in the serial number - D = Downdraft. Same as when people pick up downdraft orientated FCR flatslides - they need re-spacing as always too narrow and the float bowl angles are all wrong. They sometimes work but not optimally, either flooding or running lean.

Always had a larf when following a mate on his Mag 4 - he ain't willowy, 6'3" and looked like a Frog taking a Dump! all crouched down and legs akimbo! His accident damaged knees eventually stopped him riding 'sport bikes' about 10 yrs ago! I can't anymore due to weight on my accident damaged arm and wrists - Renthal MX bars only. Past accident damage AND getting old, sucks!

I thought that 1371 was the biggest of the overbores before stroking to get capacity increase? Isn't it 86mm bore in a big block - the APE ones were nicest but very rare now!

Rustic or not . . . . . it hasn't fallen off! Did Mr Grinder come out to play?

Now there's a thought - permanent fitted tap / valve

Sorry I was reacting to the included word 'stud' ? Maybe wrong terminology used? I'm still confused about the 'Actual' risk of GC and in particular this case! As said a conductive liquid is required to get to the threads, which seeing as they are more likely to be oily (a natural insulator) and all designed to keep oil in and water out the risk is extremely low IMO. Afterall aluminium sump and steel bung rarely corrode sufficiently to fail? I honestly don't have issues with Helicoils or Timeserts - used in suitable locations - and a M14 Timesert isn't cheap solution if you have to buy the whole kit for one thread! Hence why I would go oversize ie M14 - M16 as there should be enough metal to take it (deffo if it could take a Timesert!) and stress on threads would be less with bigger thread at required torque . . . . & its cheaper LOL!

Possible but Highly unlikely especially as the bond is surrounded by aluminium (a more sacrificial element) For it to occur there needs the presence of a decent conductive liquid - sea water / salt water - is usually quoted but a SS thread in a block in contact with both Aluminium and steel will be sealed (pretty much) from any contact with water / oil / anything via the gaskets Plus a coating of thread locker will also isolate contact to virtually zero - maybe give it a hundred years or so and you might lose 1% of the material - probably best not worry about it?

I would have thought a helicoil is a bad solution for a through hole as this, difficult to lock into place - as you've found out! I'd go for oversize plug for cheapness but deffo take sump off for accurate job!

You are in Arizona . . . . . . the majority of us - ain't, so pretty difficult to advise! Try Google as a start

I'm not seeing 3.5mm wall thickness of that collar but it would appear to be restrictive - what does the ID of the bigger ring measure as this is likely to be the 'unrestricted' size?

Bit spendy compared to DIY but I'm sure they would make 'custom lengths' if asked ! - https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-lines-accessories-tools/cycle-brake-line-kits.html Just to second and third the above - I always make mine also!

Oh! - you think? You can't tune carbs at idle or standing still !

Do like the factory - strip wire, insert into brass tube crimp and crimp! Or theres always the blue or red scotchlocs ? ? ? My - I like solder

This is for VM type carbs and the return spring is internal over the slide and under the cap ! No RS carb has springs nearly 4 or 4+" long ! Looking at the RS36 data sheet - https://www.allensperformance.co.uk/carb-kit/rs36-d3-k-data-set/ - there are no alternative closing springs! Just different posts that spring mounts on.

I think the OP knows all that - what he's asking is if a particular adaptor is available to mount the wheel to the crank! And the answer is 'maybe if you search long enough! Most people will just use a large steel washer with a dowel to reduce its hole down to M8 size and a penny washer outside the plate to clamp it - cheap and it works!