Gixer1460

Try This - No guarantee's as I picked it up years ago, as a 'Just in Case' EDIT - Site doesn't allow .dwg's or .pdf's ! ! ! Send me a PM with a email address and i'll send them!

Only if Suzuki San decided to create a whole new shifter drum! Easier to shrink a piece of plastic whilst keeping SD machining pattern the same! I think you'll find a Hayabusa has a similar PCD of contacts but different plastic moulding and electronics (more suited to EFI integration)

The giveaway is the 'D' in the serial number - D = Downdraft. Same as when people pick up downdraft orientated FCR flatslides - they need re-spacing as always too narrow and the float bowl angles are all wrong. They sometimes work but not optimally, either flooding or running lean.

Always had a larf when following a mate on his Mag 4 - he ain't willowy, 6'3" and looked like a Frog taking a Dump! all crouched down and legs akimbo! His accident damaged knees eventually stopped him riding 'sport bikes' about 10 yrs ago! I can't anymore due to weight on my accident damaged arm and wrists - Renthal MX bars only. Past accident damage AND getting old, sucks!

I thought that 1371 was the biggest of the overbores before stroking to get capacity increase? Isn't it 86mm bore in a big block - the APE ones were nicest but very rare now!

Rustic or not . . . . . it hasn't fallen off! Did Mr Grinder come out to play?

Now there's a thought - permanent fitted tap / valve

Sorry I was reacting to the included word 'stud' ? Maybe wrong terminology used? I'm still confused about the 'Actual' risk of GC and in particular this case! As said a conductive liquid is required to get to the threads, which seeing as they are more likely to be oily (a natural insulator) and all designed to keep oil in and water out the risk is extremely low IMO. Afterall aluminium sump and steel bung rarely corrode sufficiently to fail? I honestly don't have issues with Helicoils or Timeserts - used in suitable locations - and a M14 Timesert isn't cheap solution if you have to buy the whole kit for one thread! Hence why I would go oversize ie M14 - M16 as there should be enough metal to take it (deffo if it could take a Timesert!) and stress on threads would be less with bigger thread at required torque . . . . & its cheaper LOL!

Possible but Highly unlikely especially as the bond is surrounded by aluminium (a more sacrificial element) For it to occur there needs the presence of a decent conductive liquid - sea water / salt water - is usually quoted but a SS thread in a block in contact with both Aluminium and steel will be sealed (pretty much) from any contact with water / oil / anything via the gaskets Plus a coating of thread locker will also isolate contact to virtually zero - maybe give it a hundred years or so and you might lose 1% of the material - probably best not worry about it?

I would have thought a helicoil is a bad solution for a through hole as this, difficult to lock into place - as you've found out! I'd go for oversize plug for cheapness but deffo take sump off for accurate job!

You are in Arizona . . . . . . the majority of us - ain't, so pretty difficult to advise! Try Google as a start

I'm not seeing 3.5mm wall thickness of that collar but it would appear to be restrictive - what does the ID of the bigger ring measure as this is likely to be the 'unrestricted' size?

Bit spendy compared to DIY but I'm sure they would make 'custom lengths' if asked ! - https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-lines-accessories-tools/cycle-brake-line-kits.html Just to second and third the above - I always make mine also!

Oh! - you think? You can't tune carbs at idle or standing still !

Do like the factory - strip wire, insert into brass tube crimp and crimp! Or theres always the blue or red scotchlocs ? ? ? My - I like solder

This is for VM type carbs and the return spring is internal over the slide and under the cap ! No RS carb has springs nearly 4 or 4+" long ! Looking at the RS36 data sheet - https://www.allensperformance.co.uk/carb-kit/rs36-d3-k-data-set/ - there are no alternative closing springs! Just different posts that spring mounts on.

I think the OP knows all that - what he's asking is if a particular adaptor is available to mount the wheel to the crank! And the answer is 'maybe if you search long enough! Most people will just use a large steel washer with a dowel to reduce its hole down to M8 size and a penny washer outside the plate to clamp it - cheap and it works!

Don't do it! Something is wrong with your set-up if you've killed rings on a MTC piston - they are pretty bullet proof but nothing is immune from detonation! Not sure how you are achieving 8.8:1 CR with flat top pistons as MTC usually sell them as achieving 10:1 CR! MTC Turbo pistons have bowls machined in factory & are rated at 8:1. The squish band does two things - 1st - forces the mixture away from the cylinder walls into the centre of chamber to minimise chances of detonation and 2nd - provides strength with material placement of the rings. IMO, a reduced squish would be completely the wrong way to go and would likely exacerbate the problem. Stating the obvious (if I understand what you are planning to do) you can't substitute a 78mm piston for a 81mm dia. one, no matter how you machine it!

TG - you are overplaying what the Colourtune is capable of! They are really only of any use at idle and to correct adjustible idle AF mixtures as this is an area where the engine isn't under any load. To correct any other range, the engine should be under load - either on the road or a dyno - and trying to read a Colourtune out on the road could be pretty dangerous LOL!, and if you are on a dyno, it should be equiped with AFR monitoring making the Colourtune surplus to requirements. Don't get me wrong, CT's are great devices for an annual garage check / tune up of idle running, just like a set of vacuum guages, just not loaded / under power tuning!

Was indeed - and it was quick !

Because they have such low resistance ie. usually 1.5 ohm or below, if you use them in series, you add the resistances together so 2x 1.5 ohm = 3 ohm and about equal to a normal twin tower coil, but each stick will be receiving about 6-7v each. If wired in parallel, the sticks will get 12-14v each but circuit resistance is halved, which poses problems for std. ignitors or rather their power transistors. With 3.0 ohm resistance and 12v the transistors are handling about 4amps (12v / 3r = 4a) but changing that to (in parallel) you get 12v / 0.75r = 16a - so 4x the power which will burn them out. A std OEM ignitor is usually max'd out if using 2.2 ohm Dyna coils. This is about the limit of my basic electronics theory understanding so an adult may rectify if i'm wrong LOL!

Most bikes will run, start and stop without any instrument's whatsoever - so you can do whatever floats your boat. BUT finding instruments that are supported by 'old analogue' wiring and sensors may need some thinking about but not insurmountable!

What are you having problems understanding, as I've already admitted to fucking up with the first paragraph? The second is a simple concept or can't you grasp that either?

I'll state the obvious - a 140/80 X 18 won't work where once a 130/90 X 17 was fitted !

But most are using management for accurate fueling and timing, both go a way to avoid detonation.