Gixer1460

Hope you've got all the cam caps otherwise its virtually scrap metal!

As you is a Yankee (or a Rebel cos your location is ambiguous) any of the 'good' speed shops there can be a good source - try to get OEM parts if possible - more expensive but better for the bike long term!

Generally yes - and if the oily evidence in your pipe is anything to go by - definitely! Turbo's do suffer ring blow-by, causing crankcase pressure that will, if not relieved, cause leaky gaskets, excessive oil consumption and blue smoke!

That also makes sense!

If that tank has a fuel level sender? I think its a condensate drain just for that cavity. If it were a tank drain there'd be a tap somewhere close by.

A M8 has RS36's on his Bindit with standard 1200 airbox - uses long ram pipes I think, so no reason it couldn't be done!

They aren't supposed to run continuously - they pump while the float valves are open and when they close the back pressure stops the pump - its normal!

A M8 of mine has got a similar spec in a Blandit (with maybe not so much headwork and CR) and tried my new set of 41's, got dyno'd and mega power but ultimately quite unsatisfying on the road! As said above, at town speeds they were lumpy and a fraction too much twist action was a potentially licence losing scenario! I got them back and gave him some 36mm RS's which although down on power (maybe 10-12hp) are perfect for 'everyday' whilst still having licence loss potential ps. the 41's were / are destined for my 1460 engine - should be perfectly suited, if I ever get my arse in gear and do it!

Its not going to be a mechanical problem but could lose a bit of cooling without the tight contact so expect that cylinder to run hotter!

The carb top spigots work as well - this is were most vacuum operated fuel taps get their source from (usually only one though). Don't forget the diaphragm moves the slides with vacuum which is present above it ie. below the cap.

Turbo drain sump isn't a bad idea but not strictly necessary. Check valves - no, as pump discharge is directly into the crankcase - at least mine is!

No you can't ! If turbo centreline is anywhere close to oil level, no drainage would occur. The Hahn Racecraft system was copied quite a bit back in the 90's but its a lot of faffing around to get the right thickness spring steel for the 'reed' and internal plumbing around the sump to get oil from turbo to pick-up. You'd either succeed or you wouldn't, and you'd normally find out with damaged bearings! Rule of KISS - use either electric or mechanical scavenge!

Its a Dyna S, ie. the one that replaces the points and back-plate - there is no external module.

I've used - https://www.orientexpress.com/p-16915-motion-pro-pushpull-throttle-kit.aspx a few times and works fine, I've also used a 'normal' single cable, pull only on RS's without drama, using the std. closing spring I think a M8 uses a std mk1 Blandit throttle assy on his, if you want a cheap option!

And a bigger bore master won't neccessarily give you 'better' brakes - it will reduce lever travel but produce lower system pressure at the caliper pistons! Unless you know what you are doing - stick with the 'usual' 14mm bore size . . . . . . . and the YT advice is bollux, bore size makes no difference to bleeding!

You've just repeated what I wrote! Its not nice to get sarky if someone is trying to help! I haven't the benefit of having the antiquated shite in front of me to see whats what!

If there is only one lobe then there is a set of points missing LOL! Or you have two to many cylinders! A Dyna S has a rotor with one magnet but two pick-ups 180 deg. apart - the same would be true if using points! If no 2nd set of points there is nothing to fire the 2&3 coil - it shouldn't be working at all!

That's a drain for water that collects around the cap - it is connected internally to the bottom of the tank and then via a tube to below the engine. Many have assumed the same thing!

Is that an aftermarket switch - OEM ones are usually 'potted' with epoxy where wire/s connect to water / grime proof?

? ? ? - tank vents through the cap assembly so how did you blow air through it?

Seems to imply you have a fuel pump! And if so either the pressure is too high or all 4 float jets are compromised!

Doesn't make much sense as surely the rotor must have a lobe each side, 180 degrees apart, so unless one lobe (the 2-3 in this case) is stupidly worn, the firing point should be same as 1-4 but 180 degrees away? The points cam wiper does wear but you adjust the points to account for that and restore the correct gap !

That'll work ok if you throw it into the spokes - not very subtle breaking though!

Seriously - what do you think? £20 won't usually buy a good seal kit ! ! !

If aftermarket, then something akin to a Mocal 19 row std. width will cope with most things. It may be 'cool and stylish' to have a small cooler which may cope with day to day running but not so clever on a hot day stuck in traffic and cooking the engine - just my personal opinion!