Gixer1460

When you say 'dry blocked' it - you mean no oil up the studs and so have a line or two from crankcase to head? Pictures would be useful. Hate to say it but if the cam is gone the head will be trolleyed as well - ali cam bearings always lose to steel!

Eh ! ! ! - can't have it both ways - either the same OR bigger!

Hasn't the Powerscreen got a Helical primary whereas the Blandit is straight cut?

Depends what you call 'tuning' ! My 36mm CV's gave plenty of power with a virtual straight line from idle to max - no holes! If you know what you are doing anything can be 'tuned'! BUT they are shite for racing as they only give what the engine wants not what you want to give it - subtle difference!

I believe it's a lot to do with positioning of the hose end as the under tank area is generally a 'low pressure' zone but does vary so may be adjusted ad infinitum. My CV's used a double tee arrangement to pair them up and vent down by the cases - never any stumbles, just pulled from idle so there is something in it.

Usually blowthro' carb installs have a Pitot tube in the charge pipe from the turbo (you make no mention of this?) - this supplies boost pressure air to float bowl vents and to FPR (can't see point of trying to reduce fuel pressure with vacuum - it's virtually flat lining now @ 0.5psi!) BOV gets signal from an inlet runner - IMO - ideally all 4 to minimise fluttering at idle due to single cylinder pulses. If the boost gauge is the multi coloured thing on the bars - throw it away and get a proper oil filled gauge - you don't need to know vacuum, take its signal from the plenum if possible. Around idle the mixtures should be just about as if it was NA ie. no different as the BOV will be fluttering supplying idle air........unless its got a stupidly strong spring in it. But there again............... I know jack about carb'd blow throughs - I do know EFI blow through though LOL!

If its not you welding it - i'd leave it to the welder cos if you clean / grind it, by the time its got to the welder, the ground out areas will have oxidized so he'll have to clean it again. Just tell whoever its likely anodized and they'll clean it to suit - after all its their reputation on the line as regards finish!

Someone's a happy bunny!

By my rough maths 155LpH equates to about 515hp and I doubt a 4mm pipe will allow that sort of flow! Allowing some headroom over the std 160hp figure - say 250 - the line is maybe capable of flowing 75LpH. So you either change the fuel rail for a bigger one (as presently it may pose more of a restriction than the regulator!) or swop to a lesser capacity pump (subject to your power output expectations?) If the fuel flow is severely restricted out of the pump it could overheat a) the pump or b) the fuel - or both! I know on my bike a Teflon -6 pipe will flow sufficient fuel for 350 - 400hp, to go higher, safely, i'll need teflon -8

Not preaching but please don't try 'reducing' fuel to unload the engine - cut it ALL or do it with retard. Boost + lean mixtures melt things...... no fuel = no power = no lean mixture. Personally I wouldn't ramp anything fuel or timing - cut it all and bring it all back instantly / at one time, as I can't see the point speeding up a gear change to then 'slowly' build power back with ramped timing? Its already at lower revs so needs the power to continue the drive. In the 'old days' with uncontrolled ignition kills, we found that if you kill the ignition system as well as the coils you get the biggest bangs as the ignition when switched back-on, tended to fire any / all the plugs till correct timing was re-established - leaving the ignition live to keep the timing correct and trying to fire 'dead' coils worked well.

1:1 makes sense but as you have a bevel drive change in direction, a gearing change is a possibility and so helping to avoiding tiny gears at the axle. Clockwise rotation is usual for a left handed driveshaft to turn wheel forward. Anyone remember Sparkie's Nitrous Hippo from a while ago - monster powerful bike with clever touches.

Are we taking air shifter or just a linkage triggered foot shift? If the former, the optimal time we measured was between 60 - 70ms total but the actual kill time is only a portion of that and its not at the start. You trigger the shift and solenoid released air takes two paths - one to the ram, the other to the kill switch which due to a longer air line has a delay built in as so the ram builds pressure on the lever, then the kill occurs, unloading the gears so ram can push through then 20 - 30Ms later the ignition is back on. If its foot shifting, you have to play around with the trigger point for the kill as its you preloading the lever not a ram. I believe either ign. or fuel cuts work equally well - its just timing that is the key - some sound like a autobox others bang and flame - guess which ones have their timing right!

One of the big problems is getting a cylinder block to take the big liners - some have squeezed them into std GSX blocks but its a lot of metal to remove and the other option is aftermarket 'gorilla' blocks which have less fin area due to reduced numbers that are thicker than the originals ie. poor heat dissipation! Plus they tend to have little or no, through cylinder air paths - they are primarily designed for drag racing where rigidity / strength and short periods of use is primary function and cooling is secondary.

Ask Duck and Dive - he's one of the few to try A/C big block on the street. My 1460 GSXR gets really hot even with extra finnage!

The oiler engines are better bases for turbo abuse! A GSX will need a decent welded crank or it will twist with the high torque available at lower rpm's. Also the oil system - weak for NA is suspect for turbo use without work. Not many forged pistons as OEM fitment - Busa in a GSX will work and give a super torquey 1428 monster LOL! Deffo use forged pistons - cheaper in long run! Programmable ignition is a bonus as retard on boost stops things going bang or melting!

If #1 was black - dry black or wet black or oily black? If dry - then potentially v. rich. If wet - then potentially leaky float valve / v. rich. If oily then could be leaky valve stem seals or rings. Poor electrics / bad sparks could also cause 1 and 2 as well due to poor combustion. Dirty plugs - particularly NGK's - don't successfully clean up...... so best replace to eliminate that as a symptom!

If 1 and 2 are running then both coils are working and so 3 and 4 will be getting sparks (or see my post above). If you have sparks and you have air and it still ain't running then it ain't getting the last bit - fuel !

If its a pair of un-matched cylinders, its unlikely to be electrical - unless both coils, plug leads, plug caps or spark plugs are duff at same time! Which leaves carbs - everybody's favorite subject - i'd start with a strip and see whats blocked - pilots. idle air, float valve would be candidates!

Valve springs are ground top and bottom so can be fitted any way up. If you have the Duplex header fitted it could be a small leak past the gasket - they can sound ticky and would also allow a lean run on that particular cylinder. Worth a look or swop to another header for elimination purposes?

Orient Express - always served me well and well knowledgeable on old Suzuki's

Pisses me off when sellers can't be arsed to show a correct product picture - those are clearly NOT turbo pistons! And this may have changed but MTC's used to be only available @ 80mm, as this was the entry level 1327cc kit piston and 10:1 CR is a bit tall IMO if you want to run decent boost - and who doesn't!

I'm guessing the headlamp load reduces the current having to be dissipated by the piss poor RR - so not having lights on ALL the time, is bad for your 'lectrics!

Don't knock Fram or HiFlow - both good filters and both available in the US for about 9 bucks delivered to your door via the internet! I've used both together with OEM over the years and the engine can't tell the difference - oil does 6k miles, filter and oil get changed.............................and regular size filter comes off without faffing with exhaust headers!

Why fix what ain't broken!

Probably...............but totally unconnected with the quoted item, namely ram pipes / stacks, It is what it is generally and is fixed for all tuning scenario's.