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SBK1000

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  1. I had these numbers written down somewhere... I am swapping parts and I am coming up short!
  2. For the rear a 2008 + Hayabysa shock may be a good shock for you depending on lenght etc. It is 14.5 kg/mm spring rate...
  3. No. That 0.629 kg/mm is what the stock spring rates are for the Katuna... For a 180 lbs rider, Racetech suggest and 0.95 kg/mm fork spring rate. So if you are picking out a front end a 2005 to 2006 GSXR1000 would be perfect. For the rear, a shock with a 16.2 kg/mm spring rate...
  4. The 07-08 GSXR1000 has a 4-5mm fuel line... under 42 psi you can get a lot of flow... But I do hear some Bandits have a real drinking problem...
  5. You can view spring rates at www.racetech.com Go to there is says search spring rates... Select your Road bike, then select your bike and year. Then enter your weight. I always pick racing because why spend the money if you do not plan to haul ass. Those suggestions, front and back should be your guideline. This is what I am working on.... The swingarm is a real pain...
  6. For the rear, Swapping swing arms is a pain and you have to make custom parts to make them fit... It is possible but time-consuming and pricey to do them right... I would suggest fitting a GSXR rear wheel on the Katuna axle. And getting a 10mm longer shock than stock from a bike based again, on spring rate.This would raise the rear end a little and give you lighter, more agile steering. It will increase traction on the rear end. A newer shock with low miles is better. Getting a shock from a 10 year old bike will probably need service.
  7. You can get a complete front end of a late model GSXR... You get suspension and brakes. To choose a year look up the suggested spring rates for your Katuna and your weight for your riding skill level. then match that to the appropriate GSXR front end year and model. For example: 06-09 GSXR600 come with 0.90 kg/mm front ends... 05 06 GSXR1000 come with 0.95 kg/mm front ends... 07 08 GSXR1000 come with 0.976 kg/mm front ends... 06 09 GSXR750 come with 1.00 kg/mm front ends...
  8. 1990 GSXR1100 is 12-1/2" inches or 318 mm
  9. You can machine the hub like my picture above... The limiting factor is the sprocket touching the wheel. There is one other thing that you can do... But it gets the chain really close to the tire... Similar to what NO CLASS said before.
  10. Stacking the sprockets like that, you may have clearance issues with the tire. it would have to be done very precisely to avoid hop or side movement. It's NOT a bad idea. but you have to do it regularly and it will not be cheap. Moving the sprocket in 5mm by machining the sprocket carrier gives you about 1/4" clearance with a 520 chain. You can go in a 1-2 mm more but it will require trimming the wheel hub and thinning the crush drive... This you do once unless you mess up your wheel...
  11. I do not know much about these engines, and I am just thinking out loud... If the 750 dot heads fit on the 1100 cylinders, Is it possible to swap 1100 cylinders and pistons on a 750 bottom end???
  12. The only thing I was not able to check out, (because I did not have a chain on the 1100 when I got it.) is to measure the chain to frame distance... However, the GSXR1000 chain guide fits at about the same location as it does on the GSXR1100... I am still waiting on my high carbon steel GSXR1100 inner bearings spacers from my machine shop. Any chance you can align the rear axle equally, and take a rear view picture of your rear sprocket inside, as level as possible where maybe you can see the front sprocket? Does that make sense???
  13. That is true... So for those that enjoy taking care of their machine, this is a good option. Here is one of the oil filter reviews I have read... https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html
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