Gixer1460

Could it be an 1100 head as I thought the 748 short stroke head had a different stud spacing (which matched the 1100 / 1200 pattern) compared to the long stroke 750?

Again - the oil can't drain out of a cooler with connections on the lower side UNLESS you drain the sump! Only when the crankcase hose connections are uncovered can air enter to break the vacuum created when cooler is full.

Yep - deffo looks like a tensioner leak! There is a gasket between the body and the barrels and also an O ring (#15) that could be leaking - not much else though!

Yes - any which way you want. BUT as the core weighs a bit, when mounted horizontally it will eventually wear due to gravity!

Only seen it done commercially a couple of times - one was a Yoshimura for a 400/4 - looked very odd. Often done with turbos to even out the pulses but for a NA pipe I'd doubt its effectiveness. Best pipe I had was built for the bike, was a 4-2-1 system with 1-2 and 3-4 pairing but very long primaries and short mid pipe link - made a near flat torque curve.

Don't use face ache but if its the blue bike - how is that claim substantiated?

If this is a GSXR based engine there is no 'adjustment procedure'. Once the cams are in and chain mounted, the plunger is pushed in to tension by holding the 'locker' block up. Rotate the inlet cam to tension chain and guide and insert the adjuster, then the chain can be slackened by opp. rotating the cam and the adjustment plunger will extend automatically to remove the slack. Rotate the crank a couple of times - making sure the cam timing is correct first - so all slack is taken up. That's it, as slack occurs the plunger extends one notch at a time to remove it and the locker block stops it backing off! BTW only done this twice - all my engines get manual adjusters eventually!

Only White / Red goes between headlamp relay and lamps (dip beam) on the 1100M loom diagram. I'd hazard a guess it connects to the white from the switch. The yellow goes to the headlamp relay from the switch and connects to the Yellow / Red to the lamps (High beam) - This is UK spec. wiring.

The above is true but there is a trade off - angle cut teeth by design introduce side loading to anything connected and in our case its the clutch and input shaft bearing - evidence of issues occuring in excessively torquey motors - NA big bore included , so not just a turbo problem.

GSXR1100 - K or L will be correct - or anything that used 36mm CV's..........strangely enough! LOL

Std K cams in a 1186 motor. From memory the shorter numbers are good for torque and turbos, Those cams went back to stockish timing with my first turbo. Slotting sprockets is easy with access to a rotary table and a mill LOL!

Slotted sprockets may not 'give' anything but it does give the option of accurately setting the cams, adding some advance or retard to them. I've used and like 110 /110 timing - gave me good results .

Hmmmm - Air shifters are best left for the strip as obviously the air supply is limited unless carrying a compressor (and who wants extra weight and electrical load?) Personally i'd go for a good 'Quick Shifter' - ie clutchless WOT foot change. They are fractionally slower than an airshifter but don't run out of air, and can still be used on the road at less than max attack speeds. I've used both and even had a Nitrous shifter system when I used Gas on the road bike - but prefer the Quick shifter on the road.

Piss easy - 1 for 1 swop, nothing else to change!

Remember its a US bike ....... the land of the Lawsuit! If they didn't make it ridiculously difficult to start a bike with the possibility of you not being at least hands on somewhere, in case of in gear etc etc etc, then the legal eagles would have a field day!

Winner Winner - Chicken Dinner ! ! ! I did like the case protection one - very inventive!

You could sub in another set but it is a REAL big risk to take IMO. If you do, then use 'plastigauge' on each journal in 2 or 3 positions to check clearances.

Clutch switch...... if it has one? Usually tied into the start circuit somewhere. Basics - power up to start / ign bar switch, follow those wired to next junction / object and check still powered, next and so on till the last bit. If that all checks out then check earths. Assuming the starter is actually connected via soli to battery? A spanner across the soli terminals will prove starter operation.

If its got double fresh oil and is showing loss of compression then it probably HAS lost compression - check it with a gauge. Depending on how much fuel was in the oil will determine how much it was diluted and therefore how reduced its lubrication was? Running the engine certainly didn't help as petrol lubricates jack! If the rings are toast they are toast and oil from above won't help. And if the rings are done for that same oil will have gone through main bearings, rod bearings and cam bearings so draw your own conclusions from that!

Close Clive but they ain't RS's!

Carbs don't essentially work with vacuum - they function via airflow.............else how would all those turbo blow through carb set ups work - no vac when on boost! High pressure is created / generated through the venturi - a CV carb tries to keep this constant by lifting / lowering the slide.

Don't know the carbs but if the above is true - as stock - I can't see how they work? Normally the slide holes adjust lift speed - and no I don't know how that works LOL!

I don't know what the problem is but I always thought that the carbs should stay pretty much bone stock with a minor MJ increase to start with. The Dynamic boost over the fuel is to keep fuel delivery constant - the std. bleeds and air vents to the diaphragm work via air flow so either NA or turbo it's self compensating or use a heavier spring to slow the lift providing the needle can cope.

I fackin' hate inch conversions ! ! ! Wood comes in both 2.4m of 4x2" and we build houses with mm!

All to save the cost of a Helicoil.................tight bastards! LOL!