Gixer1460

Fairly sure it'll be a T4 not a T04 and will be too big for bike use IMO - The T3 series were about right. Not to say that if the core is good it couldn't be re-purposed with wheels and smaller scrolls but its a lot of work and money ......... unless you own a turbo shop!

I'm guessing the 'checker circuit' is looking at current draw to determine if the bulb is duff or not - as LED's draw less than normal bulbs its probably thinking its failed! A sales gimmick from the 80's which was never much use!

If you are going to the expense (time and money) doing a full on port and flow job inc. valves then valve guide replacement is usual as you are boring and re-cutting the seats so why do it with a wonky guide? As long as a valve stem is longer then new collet grooves can be cut and stem shortened then re-hardened with induction heating and quenching - but for the cost you might as well buy bespoke valves...........how fast can you afford to go?

It's not a 'normal' bore size - most will use 85 or 86mm for 1340 or 1371cc but if you can find the pistons - why not!

Well the obvious picks would be GS750, 850 or 1000? An ET tank may fit and they are mahooosive

Ah ha - that explains it!

For a 600 DJ104's sound big - from memory they are about the size used in 1200's - could never understand that as my GSXR1100 used DJ136/8's and used less fuel than a M8's 1200 - its all Dark Arts - I'm telling ya! Plug thread - Helicoil kit - done carefully will outlast the rest of the engine.

Ha Ha Ha - 14T and a turbo ! Most fit a 17 as it's about as big as will squeeze in without catching on engine / cover / clutch push rod and a 40 out back and smaller! Low end acceleration is not an issue - traction usually is!

Grabbed some pictures the other nite - hope they help?

Piston pin to crown height difference?

However they are made - they will go to around 300hp in a Bus before the ring lands let go! Most std GSXR / Blandit stock pistons can break NA whilst blowing into the airbox LOL!

You won't like that 044 fuel pump if your battery or charging system is weak - it can draw upto 12A ! IMO don't fit a 5-600hp FP if you don't need to!

Its the tach wire from the Dyna that is yellow which then connects to the OEM tach wire Black/red (for clarification).

OP said he's done that - #1 stayed cold therefore it can only be a duff plug (possible) or lead (unlikely) or #1 carb (highly likely based on period of inactivity) Carbs never drain completely so crud in jets is my bet!

Yep - One good whack with an impact driver (and correct cross head bit) and they loosen - they have jap loctite forever from the factory! I tend to add an extension between the driver and bit holder as you can't get a straight shot without due to the rubbers. Oh and it's easier with engine out or head off LOL!

I'd vote heavier arm weights - generally easier on the fingers at sub warp speed. Mixing the oils on pre semi soaked plates won't help but the slip should eventually subside as semi gets diluted with mineral!

Hmmm - you didn't mention what bike but assuming a GSXR ? - a 6Ah battery is less than half the recommended 14Ah! The charging system kicks out about 300w so @ 13.8v thats approx 21A which will easily run the bike with everything on.......................but could be cooking the battery when not - possibly?

Without the bulb in place there won't be a complete circuit so not surprising nothing happens. There should be (as far as i'm aware) no direct interaction between ignition and lighting circuits - each separately fused. As fuse don't pop it's unlikely a short but I can't explain the symptoms. Is it side light or main headlights...... could it be a rear lights issue?

Followers should be smooth, shiny and curved. Any ridges, flat spots, dull or scratched and i'd be replacing it as it may take out the cam. Followers are cheap compared to cams.

Valves are no bigger than std 1200 Blandit ones - I think the smaller chamber makes them 'appear' bigger?

Don't the Blandit ones need the 'secret sauce' resistor in the wiring somewhere to function correctly?

Never seen one worn like that but the second pic is showing some evidence of pitting / voids in the casting! It could be a combination of extended oil changes and/or overly tight clearances that have simply worn out the lobe. Unless Suzuki advise using different oil for your location - I wouldn't! 10w40 is usual grade and would suspect more frequent changes would be better that going heavier which maybe doesn't flow as well on start up when cold - when most of the wear occurs!

No as GSXR has integrated RR within the alternator - only has two wire output - Red to Battery / ign sw. and Orange to Ignition sw and fuses.

When you say 'Bindit bottom end' you are referring to everything below the head gasket ie. the whole engine minus the cyl. head? That's the only bit worth using and maybe the coil spring clutch. If you are considering swopping the 750 barrels on up, over to a bindit cases - i'd say why? A 750 isn't the torquest motor in the world and you'd be losing a gear with a bindit box so needing more torque........... its not a normal swap!

Is this a telepathy example? LOL! That wasn't there earlier ! ! ! ...................... Hmmmmm maybe i'm going mental.