clivegto

It will be fun what ever happens

Got 2 blue one's at a guess the thinner one is just less than 800lbs the fatty one maybe just over 1000lbs both are 6 inches long.

@yantoshI have a couple of nitro springs could maybe doa swap.

It's in the pictures lol.

Very cool

Looking good and from what I understand it's Suzuki friend is now welcome on site.

Turbo Harris not compleat yet but aiming for 300 to 350hp

Turbo Scratcher 260hp at back wheel. Done 100 road miles on it today.

Made a oil return pipe up from the turbo to the machacical scavang pump. Big pipe then into little pipe. Big pipe should work as a drain reservoir when the engine is turned off. This should stop smokey start ups.

I would also say yes. I run a Rodger Upperton flowed big valve head on my setup, it makes good power with only a small turbo.

Last one I did I just got a new seal, put the piston on the spinny wire wheel then slightly honed the slave bore. Works like new now.

Fitted the oil supply to the turbo using M16x1.5 to m10x1mm adaptor from the main oil gallery to the turbo using the the standard ihi vf22 banjo bolt with 0.8mm oil way at the turbo end. Used one of Richard's ( @gsxr884) black braided pipes for a b12 back brake for supply, taking it up and over above top crankcase a bit like a U bend this should stop oil draining from the engine to the turbo especially as the turbo feed is higher than the oil level.

Petrol plumbing just about sorted out.

Fit some SBS pads & braided lines it will transform your brakes.

Got a little stainless steel m10x1mm banjo bolt with a bleed nipple for the clutch slave cylinder as there is only a very small space between the boost pipe and the bleed nipple on top of the slave cylinder. I will simply remove the hole cover to bleed it through then replace the cover and remove any excess fluid from the new bleed nipple to get the slave sylinder in the correct position. .

Anything will fit with a little modification. Back part of your arm looks like bandit 1200 from what I can see in the picture pivot point modification looks a bit extreme.

Run a tdo4l open (dry) for a few year's on the road now without any problems. But the cooler the better on these engines I recon.

Looks like that to me as well.

There fast like my bikes.

Edit

Your mates at bigCC told me how to do it.

You can get tight ones to fit by using grinding paste a shoes lace and removing the followers.

What pressure did you set the fpr at when running. I have mine at around 1.5+psi. Does sound like ike no 1 float valve has a problem as well.

Don't assume anything I also found stuff in my cases after vapour blasting

Looks alright to me.