TonyGee

your a braver man than me, good on ya

yeah go with a gasket, you know it makes sense

the quest for a lighter clutch continues bought a 10mm x 6mm x 8mm bearing and pushed the worn brass bush out of the lever and pressed the bearing in. i don't thing it feels any lighter but it does feel smoother, its not as easy as the katzuma clutch as that is a 2 finger job but its defo better than it was and not that noticeable when riding

every little helps

bloody hell, i bet they're not cheap

Put it down to experience sam. At least its fixed now go and ride it.

yippee come on spill the beans

what an ET should look like

what are you thinking ? the gsx1100 et ally swinger will go in but the pivots are different sizes, easily sorted though. ive got a 1200 bandit swinger and wheel on mine.

nice job Clive but i think your work space needs a tidy

i had a similar problem on my ET 2 weeks ago, turned out to be a loose earth wire behind the headlight. !!!!!! but thinking about it, the single dash warning light will pick up a live from both indicators so it could send power to both sides.

right i know what it is, the frame is haunted , i think you need a priest out to get it blessed.

im liking that black powder chrome Clive

theirs 2 things i don't like about my 750 ET, 1) the exhaust sounds shite so i'll have to change that when i have the dosh, and 2) the clutch is just too fecking heavy !!!! its had new plates and standard springs as it was slipping when i accelerated hard, also a new cable. the OEM ET clutch lever was pretty scabby and slightly bent so i used a tidy 600 bandit one i had, but because of my dodgy joints it just wasn't nice to ride so after some research i was thinking of using one of them fugly EZ pull things but what they do is just reduce the pivot gap to the nipple, i compared the distance form the pivot and nipple hole on both levers and the ET one is 5mm shorter, so cleaned it up and fitted it and its much better. so anyone with a heavy clutch check the pivot to nipple distance, ive gone from 35mm to 30mm and its made a difference.

I used the pushrod from the B6 wraith. Cant remember the length though sorry.

the slave cylinder can get pretty crapped up where it lives, i think a clean up and a new seal is in order. if no better then its down to the master cylinder. then a B6 cable conversion imo the cable has a better feel than a hydraulic set up, plus it can be easily adjusted while you are riding.

fingers crossed for you

sorry Sam, the pickup plate that lives under the right engine cover (where you used to find points in the old days). they send a pulse upto the CDI.

sounds like your master or slave cylinder needs a rebuild. i did away with all that shite and went to a B6 cable set up. it feels much better

many years ago a guy came in and bought a piston for a dt175mx, 2 weeks later he came in again and bought another one. 3-4 weeks after that he was in again for yet another one !!!! so i asked him did he have a problem with the bike, he said no its the N.O. it keeps burning holes in the pistons

i know its a ball ache but when ever ive done plug threads ive always pulled the head off, its just the thought of any cuttings sitting in the combustion chamber, yeah you can use grease but its not a guarantee you won't drop any bits. just my way

i would swap the pulse coils first and the CDI.

might be worth swopping the ignition system off the new bike and trying it on the problem bike, if it runs good then the problem is electrical and you engine is good.

the bandit ones.