TonyGee

the cam caps should stay exactly where they came from, they are machined at the factory to be an exact fit and shouldn't be swapped about. ive seen dickheads selling them on eblag separate from the head !!!!!!

if its electronic i'd be checking and cleaning connections.

yeah them chain plates can be a bitch to get in, you just have to make sure that all holes to the sump are well covered as the plates are easily dropped

i thought it was just a split cam chain that was fitted, but if it was a full engine strip then that could be a different matter. who did the job ? and yeah an engine can run with the cam timing out by a tooth, any more and a modern engine would just lock up.

yeah they come with a soft link

cam timing is out by the sound of it !!!!

try turning them in, when an engine is idling smooth and you screw them in the idle will drop. thats when you screw them back out to get the mixture somewhere near, it might help but it might cause a flat spot !!! im just grasping at straws now

have you had the mixture screws out ? they have very small O rings on them, they can split or not get refitted in the past, some people put them on the wrong side of the washer !!!!!

if you can lift the rear wheel with the front brake using just two fingers then you brake is good enough

you can't rush these things dezza

ive seen aftermarket ones for bandits on the bay of E, same basic engine.

my 1980 E"T" on a V plate is eligible for historic vehicle in 4 weeks. 1st April.

you can get cheap clutch tools on the bay. i wonder if a bearing has let go ? years ago i had a noise on my gsxr1100 so when i stripped the bottom end i found the output shaft inner needle roller bearing had collapsed and the outer roller bearing outer race had cracked in 2 places, just held together by the cases !!!!!!! it also fecked the inner bearing surface on the shaft. luckily i was working for a Suzuki dealer at the time so got my bits cheaper. i blame too many wheelies

its hard to tell from the pick, but i think its defo in need of a strip down before things get any worse !!!! are the bits of metal steel or aluminium ?

ok Steve, good luck

no not really, you dont need to take the starter clutch of but if you do you would need a special tool. just a clutch holding tool but be carful when refitting the clutch, make sure ALL the gears are engaged as they easily break if not !!!!! theirs a hidden bolt inside the genny hole.

doesn't the "T" make it a 1980 ?

just beware of the hidden top crankcase bolts,

the only 100% way to know is to split the crankcases. you can leave the top end on though.

going back to the busa 6 pots, i had no end of problems trying to bleed them up on customers bikes, never got them the same as a brand new bike, (love to know how the factory did them) but someone told me the seals out of a zxr of some sort helped. the suzuki seal's have a tapered edge on them which is meant to help the pistons retract (that came from a suzuki tech) so i tried a set of seals from the zxr which are square like normal seals and they made a big difference. i don't know for sure if this is the problem with the 6 pots but i know other guys who have done the same thing with good results. but i'm sticking with my 4 pots.

can't say ive ever heard a gearbox rattle in 3rd gear ? are you sure its not coming from the chain ? it could be the chain but only at a certain speed (3rd gear) try loosening or tightening the chain just to test the theory and see if it stops.

on my 750 the left frame mount has a hole with a 6mm captive nut and a hole in the airbox tab, the right side mount doesn't have a hole or captive nut, the right side airbox tab doesn't have a hole either, it just rests on the mount. seems daft to just do one side but i guess its up to the job.

have you tried it with the engine running ? it can make a difference. it could be just the plates sticking. i had a reverse problem with my 1200, clutch worked fine when the engine was cold but when hot the clutch would slip, rebuilt the entire system to no avail so done away with it ( as i just couldn't be arsed fucking about ) and used a 600 cover and cable. problem sorted.

the oil cooled engines are not the quietest engines around, it could be the tensioner is ready to click over to the next tooth ? their is a way of helping it though, if you take the single bolt out ( not the mounting bolts ) and insert a small screwdriver or sumat like and GENTLY push the toothed rod in it might click over but don't use excessive force or the chain will be too tight. it might be worth getting someone who knows the engines to listen to it just to put your mind at rest.