TonyGee

one thing i do know is, grinding 16 valves in is the worst job to do on an engine

we are talking about (i think) a 40 year old engine, if he gets a %100 seal with grinding paste then i'll show my arse in a shop window. I better go and give my arse a wash and a shave now ive said that !!!!

you can't expect two metal surfaces held together with a spring to be 100% sealed especially the exhaust valve seat, as i said petrol is very thin and can leak through the smallest of gaps. if it holds for a short while before you see a damp patch then you have a pretty good seal. im only going on my experience

does that include my BROWN one ?

yeah, i do know that Suzuki where struggling with sales in the 90's so they had to use what ever they had to hand and make the rest on the cheap, hence the bandits that helped them out of a rut. i know a lot of you guys dont like em but they sold thousands of them and it helped save the company. i think they are a great bike but thats just my opinion.

when i was in the bike shop i just used the degreasing fluid out the the cleaning bath, seemed to work well.

we know the bandit is a parts bin special and being the "unicorn pre production bike" they would of used whatever they could lay their hands on till the final setup was reached, thats my thinking

try a new plug, and check the cap for damage.

the mk1 carbs have just 2 screws holding the float bowls on, but if you take them off in situ the plastic float frame drops out. not easy to refit. best with the carbs out and upside down.

using petrol can give you a false reading, its one of the thinnest fluids about and can seep past almost any gap unless their is an O ring holding it back. if you do use petrol and it doesn't leak straight away then its probably ok but if you leave it some time you will see damp spots

i use 6mm dowty seals on mine, never had a leak yet

how do they check that ? the mk1 and mk2 engines share most of the engine components

pretty much the same wraith.

it would be a good idea too while the top end is off, you said its burning oil that could be the rings as well. after you measure the piston to bore clearance and the ring gap and they are in spec, don't rule out the oil control rings.

are you putting new rings in ?

what you've done so far is gona be an improvement, a nice fresh cut seat would be nice but if the budget won't allow it then it'll have to do. how did the bike run before you pulled the head off ? ive seen worse exhaust seats before and the motor ran fine. i know what its like working too a tight budget

imo the valve looks ok but the seat could do with a bit more, then finish off with the fine paste.

im assuming you used the mk2 front sprocket cover with the speed sensor in it ? the problem their though is the output shaft isn't drilled for the pickup but it is possible to have it drilled, or think of a way to fix the pickup to the front sprocket.

yeah fare enough, i like the old chrome Zed clocks as well but to my mine i think the Mk1 bandit clocks look more like em with them being 2 separate pieces.

can i ask why you want to use mk2 clocks and not the better looking mk1's ?

the parts diagram shows you put them in the right order, the steel plates have teeth on the inside that locate onto the inner basket and the pressure plate so they dont slide against the aluminium.

you need to put a tuned oil cooled engine in it and then sell me the air cooled motor nice bike by the way.

looks like its been down pretty hard on the left side

no need as the rings are bedded to the bore.

if its got both screws then yeah start at factory, you will end up screwing the air screw in and the fuel screw out.