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About Toddy64

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  1. Assuming it’s the same colour as a 89K, try RAL7021
  2. I had similar issues with my 1100K that had been laid up for many years. Cutting out when engaging first, and still trying to creep when warmed up. I’d also replaced the perished 30yr old line with braided and it was a bugger to bleed up. Eventually out of desperation and a possible cheap fix I stripped, and cleaned the Slave Cylinder replacing the seal and spring. It now works perfectly, though that may have been pure luck and the dormant clutch plates starting to work, who knows, but certainly worth a try
  3. Ah thanks for looking Dezza, no worries.
  4. Haha Dezza, honestly I’m not that fussy, it looks good enough for me for now. May even get round to doing it properly one day if I ever get the engine out. By the way, did you ever fish out that RGV solo seat you kept tripping over, I may be able to make something of it for the cost of postage
  5. Nah, honestly Tony, it’s absolutely spot on, I was quite surprised, a nice Satin finish as it says on the tin (sounds like a bloody Ronseal ad) iirc I think I found the colour code on an American gsxr type site, they of course had the luxury of the correct PJ1 type stuff. Loving the Halfords Volvo grey, may give that a try too
  6. I found the correct engine colour RAL7021 Black Grey from Huddersfield Autopaint, and although this is not actually engine paint, it certainly gave my 1100K a welcome refresh. Had I actually removed the engine I would have probably searched for the proper stuff, but this has lasted a season well, and as long as I don’t spill anymore petrol or clutch fluid on it, I expect it to last a few more years. Defo worth a try as I think I paid about £15 for a single can
  7. I’ve been following similar threads as I’m fitting a 750K1 arm to an 1100K and having a mare getting things in line. Thankfully I’m sticking with my Slingshot wheels for now, however @MeanBean49has plenty of helpful info on similar regarding machining 5-10mm from your sprocket carrier etc to move it inboard, dependant on front sprocket offset.(as the 750K rear sprocket is indeed 10mm further from wheel centre than a Slingshot) If you’re happy to run 520, an XR650 front sprocket gives you 4mm offset for a sensible price
  8. TonyGee, that is actually what I ended up doing, 520 non o ring chain, XR650 01-07 front sprocket with 5mm more offset than an 1100k one, and 5mm spacers behind rear sprocket. Not ridden yet but all seems to line up and more importantly clears the swingarm (bearing in mind a K1 wheel has the sprocket a further 10mm from centre than a Slingshot) so fingers crossed
  9. Yes please Dezza, no massive hurry as I need to get this bleeding swingarm sorted, hoping to be there once the 520 chain arrives. Was the seat a reasonably easy fit?
  10. Hi Dezza, do you still have the RGV seat? As I’m looking to try something a little smaller than the standard slingshot solo seat
  11. Mines an 1127 89K, so should be ok, ordered today off chainandsprocketsuk 14 front and 1100k 48 rear, free postage and 10% voucher code, result! Will post result once fitted. Can you recommend a good 520 chain, as there seems a lot of cheaper stuff about?
  12. Just measured the standard 530 front sprocket and it is 8.5 mm thick with no offset, so my thoughts are that the XR650 one (at 13.6mm) may just give me the 5mm clearance I think I require for chain clearance, will obviously space out the rear sprocket to match. I was considering 520 conversion anyway?
  13. It’s part number JTF1307 for XR650X and ZX6R 98-02 and looks to be an extra 4mm offset, could just work on my 1100k with K1 swingarm conversion as chain rubs arm centre brace, if I convert to 520?
  14. Other than using a K1 wheel etc, my only thoughts were 520 conversion and a 2mm washer behind front sprocket and similar behind the rear sprocket using five 2mm washers, but sounds a bit of a bodge? Was hoping someone may have already done it?
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