Spelli

Hi Can anyone recommend a decent set of engine protection bars for my old 1100et?

Country codes. great … got it. looks like Uk is E02 Thanks

So you recon the level is not that critical?

Just come to top up the fork oil after replacing the seals on my 1980 1100 et and found the manual gives 2 different specs and levels The manual states a level for “E-01, E28 and E-30.” Of 238ml / 216mm and a second level of 252ml / 193mm for “The others” I can’t seem to find from the manual what these 2 different specs refer too. Any help would be appreciated.

The Petcock filter is intact and from memory it looked fine enough to me. I am thinking that the Petcock filter may well be sufficient. To be honest I am not entirely happy with the in-line fuel filter as it opens up the potential of leaking fuel onto a hot engine which never a good idea.

I can not face getting muck in those lovely clean carbs. They took a lot of effort to get them clean, don’t want to block them up again just for the sake of a bit of fiddling with the pipes.

Thanks for that suggestion. I will check that out tomorrow

The thread is quite fine. Tried the local nut and bolt supplier but no luck. was thinking of buying spare carb drain plugs and drilling through and soldering on a tube to make a connection for the tubes. Think that should do it.

I have de rusted and lined the fuel tank. The carbs have been striped and ultrasonic cleaned and have used an inline fuel filter. So I think everything should be clean. I think this re routing of hose to incorporate the filter has caused the main fuel pipe kink. The pipe looked ok to the eye but it is hard to see when the tank is fitted but I think it is the only reasonable explanation. Think I need to route the pipe with a less tight curve or find a way to stop it kinking.

Think you are right, that doesn’t make sense that would be too much of a coincidence Have you seen those adapters to fit into the drain plugs?

I seem to be having a problem with the rebuilt carbs. On my Gsx1100et At first I was getting some poping in the exhaust which I put down to a lean condition caused by air leak. changed the carb mounting rubbers which had gone hard. This at first appeared to solve the problem. Started the bike this morning and it started straight away, run for a few minutes and then started to die like it was running out of fuel. then it stopped and would not restart. Spark ok. Plenty of fuel. Opened the float bowl drains and very little fuel came out. attached a remote fuel tank so as to eliminate any fuel tap issues and found fuel was still not flowing even though the one of the float bowls was empty. Pipework is intact. Looks to me like the needle valves have been sticking closed. dismantled the carbs …again and all looks ok. Needle valves appear to open and close as needed. what am I missing ? Could the replacement needle valves and seats be giving me the problem. Should I replace them again? I have seen reference to adapters that fits into the float bowl drains enabling clear pipes to be attached so as to see the actual fuel level in carbs. Any idea where I can buy these or how to make them ? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Thanks guys for the info. that is appreciated

I understand th rear of the chain needs to be supported by something heavy at the rear. But I didn’t understand that last comment. Could you clarify please.

Here is a question about chain riveters. there seems to be a lot of cheep tools on the market. Are they any good? Or is it worth spending a little more. what do you use ? can you rivet a drive chain by hand with a hammer and punch?