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  1. Toni, can I ask you, how did you manage to cross reference the part numbers to discover they are used in other machines?
  2. That looks very interesting. Thanks very much Tony. I will have a look at those.
  3. So just an update on previous saga. Goparts have eventually come back to me after about 5 weeks to tell me the GSX master cylinder repair kit is not available and is refunding the money. I found another supplier in Australia who has 3 in stock but will not export the part because it is in short supply and is saving them for his long term loyal clientele. ( fair enough. ) does anyone have any other suggestions as to how I might track down the part or any alternative ideas as to how I might solve this issue….. ie alternative pattern parts / visually similar master cylinder that might be available.
  4. Part is ordered. carriage is a bit steep at €20.00 but it is a lot better that trying to cobble something together from Mis matched parts. let’s just hope it is the right one when it comes !!! Thanks again for the help Mike.
  5. I have checked the part number listed on the cms web site and that part number from goparts looks correct. that is absolutely fantastic success. What a ⭐️ Thanks Mike.
  6. Thanks Mike, really appreciate your help with this. the listing only quotes the part number. Is this the right part number? how can you check if it is correct ?
  7. Thanks for the input. I will give the seller a call in the hope he can measure it for me. I can only hope.
  8. https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/163469974337?epid=848026946&hash=item260f91db41:g:I-AAAOSw9uxeci8M just seen this on Eblag. Supposed to be for Gs 250/400. looks very much like it. Anyone tried to fit one. ?
  9. I am struggling to find a master cylinder repair kit for my 1980 gsx1100et. I have replaced all seals ect in both front and rear callipers and also the rear master cylinder but I can not seem to find a suitable kit for the front master cylinder. looks like the original is no longer available. Tourmax do one for the rear but not the front. all places I have tried so far have come to a dead end. Any advice about where I can find one? Is there an alternative kit that in which the seals would fit ?
  10. So I have decided to go down the Molasses route. Having taken a look at my trial using brick acid, while it has certainly removed the rust but I did not like the look at what it had done to the rusty bolt. don’t fancy doing that to my tank. I am not in any rush. So it is the long slow method for me. I will update in 3 weeks or so. Most of the rust has been removed already so it might not take quite as long. It will give me some time to sort the brakes out next.
  11. Thanks Dezza, & Swiss Toni it seems like there are a lot of different ways to achieve the same thing. I have always fancy’s giving Molasses a try but have heard conflicting opinions on its effectiveness. But at least it is not going to be as potentially harmful to the paint. If it is good enough for Allen Millyard then it is good enough for me I found this video which seemed to speak well of the molasses if a little slow. I am not in any rush, so I might give this a try first.
  12. Thanks for your valuable input. I did know that the baking soda neutralised the acid so it is important to clean the tank out afterwards with it but I wasn't aware the baking soda formed a protective coating against flash rust. that is very interesting. I have bought a POR tank sealer to finish the process which comes with a product called Metal Prep that is suppose to remove rust and provide a final etch for the POR to key to. I am not confident that it will remove anything but surface ( flash rust ) so my plan was to use this as the final step before applying the paint. I would just like to see as much clean metal as possible before using the MetaL Prep. Anyone else used this product?
  13. Thanks for your input. I taken a look at the electrolysis process ( YouTube again) looks like it might be less risky to the paintwork.
  14. The next part of my project is to get the rust out of the petrol tank. I have been using a rust eater product from Frost Auto Restorations. It seemed to be working at first but it seems to be loosing its effectiveness. I put a gallon of the stuff in the tank and turned the tank over every day. It has worked quite well but I am struggling to remove the rust from the raised central section. ( more liquid needed to keep it wet. ) rather than buy more of the product I am eyeing up a gallon can of brick cleaner that is sat doing nothing in my garage. I have run a test on some rusty old bolts in a container with a 50/50 mix of acid and water. Looks to be doing the job well. But I am a but worried about putting it in the tank and splashing it on the paintwork. Anyone got any advice? Is the a good idea or a terrible one? Is there a better way?
  15. Thanks for the advice. I think you are right it is a wait and see job now. just need to clean out the rust from the petrol tank then I can see if it will fire up.
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