Joseph

Also i found that i had to not go by the manual as per float heights, the carbs would leak when at Mikuni said spec, but yeah, now i use inline taps without all the tank fitted crap and i close them when i get off the bike

Session in the oven ? That said, if it can fit in the oven A prop under the liners should make the alloy upper case plop down once dilated ?

New carbs ? Did you check and adjust the floats or did you just put them on the engine ? They need doing out of the box, so if you didn't...

It's black red on the bottom right of the 6 pin plug, but only needed if you think a rev counter is of any use

This is a RF900 loom but will be the same. Ignore the pink wire if you have it you can take it out altogether

I would put the 750 box in the F cases with the R cams. i have a 1216 fitted like that and it has great feel to it thanks to the proper gearing of the 6 speed box

Well thats some nice stuff Maybe the same as original minus the amount the crappydive units ?

Mids are totally different due to how high the mid goes up in regards to the rear of the cylinder head on the 1100 On the 750 it's almost flush between the fairing and the cam cover : On the 1100 there's about 4cm :

Yes

They're not, but not too far off I've massaged an RF header onto an 1100 oilcooled engine (don't ask why ) with success

Surely GSXR 1100 cams and matching ECU will sort you out nicely ?

£575 for a brand new set of RS But the technical feat and adaptability of the FI system is cool

Buy a second hand one, the new ones you find cheap are cheap knock offs and tend to fry immediately. The original one seems to be that kind of part that doesn't fail much, so S/H is fine

This one (there is another version that is twice the height that won't fit) : And this kit :

Well the aircooled charging system is well known to be iffy and have a tendancy to overheat. Is the bike still charging ? I would take the stator cover off, replace the 3 yellow wires nicely before they melt further and short out, and place it back. Then use a Yamaha R1 type electronic regulator to replace the original one I did that on my 5 aircooled engines whose charging system was always either dead upon purchase or died shortly after. This setup allows a constant 14.5V load to the battery at all RPM and cuts down on overheating oil and engine. You can find the necessary connectors from kojaycat or AliEx, and the regulator itself can fit in the same place as the original one

You need to : - Connect the blue Neutral switch wire directly to the blue/black dash light wire - the orange/yellow goes to the orange/black - the green wire goes to earth black/white in the cutout system, but it is no longer needed if you take everything out

Yep i get it. K forks do fit in some oilcooled triples so it would be possible to retain the dashboard another time

Generally speaking, cast alloy and pressure moulded plastic bike parts usually have a part reference number on them. Yamaha even goes to just putting the bike model code on them.

Google that :

A nice "factory" touch would be to use modern radial USD forks that you have reanodized in the 94 blue, and keeping the stock W rim Lots of work for something "nobody" would realise you'd done but still Thats the sort of headache i enjoy giving myself

If they're needed while you're there, OEM bushes are preferable for a rebuild

Ah, also, the GSX has the dashboard check panel thats merged into the loom quite extensively

EFE has more stuff on it. Katana 750/1100 will be identical GSX 750/1100 will be identical However, although useable, the GSX differs from the katana a bit (namely, the Katana uses an Oilcooled type fuse box, Katana has electronic rev counter, no fuel sender etc) Lengths on the lighting differ somewhat also, but not a lot so thats not a major problem

Definitely no limiter on GSX engines The rest i can't answer

PU sealant should be enough to fix it